You can use an auto scrubber or floor machine for this step as well, as long as you change the pad beforehand. Don’t use the same pad you used to apply or wipe up the stripping solution. Wash all tools used. Thoroughly clean any tools used, including the interior of machinery hoses and tanks. If left uncleaned, the stripping solution will dry into a hardened mess and ruin your tools.
Let your floor dry completely. Don’t move on to waxing your floor until it is completely dry, or the wax may not attach properly. You can put a fan in the room to hasten the drying process. Apply wax to your mop. Immerse a sponge mop into the wax, or pour some wax onto the upper side of a flat wax applicator mop.
If your mop is dripping, you should press it into the wringer portion of the mop bucket or press it against the sides of the bucket. Don’t actually wring your mop; the goal is to make it damp with wax, not dry or dripping. Apply the wax to one small section of floor at a time. Start at the opposite end of the room from the door so you don’t have to cross the waxed portion to leave the room.
If you try to wax too large an area at once, you are more likely to miss spots or apply the wax unevenly. If your first layer is too thick, the whole process could fail to set properly. Be careful not to drip excess wax onto the floor, and only use a damp,not soaked mop. Once the floor in one section is evenly covered, mop over it with broad strokes in the same direction to create an even appearance. Now you can move on to the next section.
Wait for it to dry completely. This should take about half an hour, but could be longer in areas with high humidity. After ten minutes of natural drying, you can point a fan into the room to make it dry faster, but do not point it directly at the waxed floor. This could interfere with the adhesive. Read the label of your floor wax for more accurate estimate of drying time.