Posts

How Cleaning and Maintaining Soapstone Tiles?


Re-oil your Soapstone tiles surface once a week for the first 1-2 months. For subsequent applications, simply dab a little oil onto a folded cloth and use it to lightly buff the surface from corner to corner. Frequent treatments will encourage the stone to deepen in color even further. There’s no need to re-oil the surface at all following its initial treatment, if you don’t want to.


In fact, many homeowners opt to let their Soapstone tiles return to its original light gray color. Tip: Another benefit of periodic oiling is that it remedies the appearance of light scratches caused by cookware and cutlery. Continue oiling the surface as needed when its water-resistance wears off.


After the first couple of months, you can cut back to applying oil on a provisional basis and reduce the amount of attention you give your Soapstone tiles. A good rule of thumb is to polish on a fresh coat whenever you notice that water is no longer beading on the surface, or forms dark stain-like spots where it collects on the stone.


If you want to add oiling your Soapstone tiles surfaces to your cleaning schedule, once every 2-3 months is a good interval to shoot for. Discoloration caused by moisture is temporary, and won’t affect the look of your Soapstone tiles surfaces in the long run. Clean your Soapstone tiles quickly with a mild soap solution.


No expensive products or complicated techniques required—just stir a few drops of liquid dish soap into a container of warm water and wet a clean cloth, microfiber towel, or non-abrasive sponge or scrubbing pad. A light scrubbing will leave the surface spotless and restore its subtle shine. Use a stiff-bristled brush to get down deeper into corners, recesses, grooves, and other hard-to-reach areas.

How Tackling Tough Interior Stains?


Blot up spills right away. Use a clean, dry towel to pick up any spills on your sandstone tiles. Be sure to dab and blot the area instead of wiping it. Wiping the spill around can create a larger stain by moving the food or liquid around the area. Most liquids can stain your sandstone tiles but some that are particularly bad include wine, fruit juices, and coffee.


Avoid the use of cleaners that contain harsh chemicals and abrasives. sandstone tiles is a very porous stone and it can be discolored and damaged by a wide variety of cleaning products. In particular, acidic cleaners can discolor the surface permanently. Tip: sandstone tiles is prone to discoloration and it can’t be cleaned with the common cleaners you use in other parts of your house.


Thus, if you are looking for a surface for your tiles or flooring that is strong and can take a beating, sandstone tiles is not for you. Make a baking soda paste if plain water can’t get a spot off. It’s easy to make a great alkaline sandstone tiles cleaner by mixing up a paste of baking soda and water. Put a couple of tablespoons of baking soda in a small bowl and mix in a few drops of water.


Stir the mixture with a spoon and keep adding water until the mixture is a thick paste. You can also buy specific natural stone-cleaning products online or at many home improvement and hardware stores. However, a simple baking soda paste is likely to work just as well. Apply the paste to the stain and scrub it with a soft-bristled brush.


Smear the paste onto the stain on the stone with the spoon you used for mixing. Let it sit on the surface for about 15 minutes. Then scrub the surface with a soft brush. You can use a variety of types of brushes, including a home cleaning brush, a nail brush or an old toothbrush. Wipe the paste off with a clean, damp cloth.

How to Install marble tiles?


If you’re looking for some eye-catching accents and unique pigments to spice up your kitchen, marble tiles are a great choice. Although marble tiles installation is definitely a job best done with a friend given the heaviness of the material, the actual installation is a lot easier than you would think!


Attach a diamond masonry blade to your power saw. Start by attaching vice grips to your old blade to prevent it from moving. Now, use a wrench to loosen the bolt and remove it. Remove the flange—the small rim located under the bolt—and lift the blade out. Finally, swap in your new diamond blade, reattach the flange, and retighten the bolt.


Be sure that your blade is designated for marble tiles. Skip this step if you already have a diamond masonry blade on your power saw. Saw along the marked lines to cut the marble tiles to size. Set the blade depth to half the thickness of your marble tiles. Afterward, place your left hand on marble tiles to keep it steady and your right hand on the handle of the saw to move it forward and backward.


With your marble tiles on a flat surface, start sawing along the top penciled line. Apply gentle pressure downward onto the marble tiles with your left hand and down onto the saw using your right hand. Always check that the teeth of the diamond blade are pointing opposite to the marble tiles. Repeat this process with the other side of the marble tiles to cut it in half.


Remove the blade from the marble tiles every 30 seconds to keep the temperature low. Space each bead apart by 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) to make sure that the silicone holds the counter as securely as possible. Always start installing the marble tiles around the sink region.

How Cutting Your marble tiles?

Measure the top of your cabinets and purchase your marble tiles slabs. Use a measuring tape to get the dimensions of the cabinet tops to determine how much marble tiles you need. Be sure to account for the sink opening when ordering pre-cut marble tiles so that it comes with a space for your sink. Always choose marble tiles with unpolished edges to ensure that there are seams between the slabs.


Choose between rounded, curved, and square edges for the outer edges of your marble tiles. Use 1.25 inch (3.2 cm) slabs for the best results. Select a pattern and color that fits with your space. Add an extra 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) to your dimensions to account for overhang. Remove the marble tiles from the packaging and dry-fit it to the tiles.


marble tiles weighs 25 pounds (11 kg) per square foot, so have at least one person help you move the slabs to be safe. If you’re using multiple marble tiles slabs, make sure that each one fits tightly against the other. If you removed your kitchen sink when removing your old marble tiles, lower it into place after dry-fitting your marble tiles to make sure that it fits. If your sink is still installed, that’s fine too.


Mark cutlines onto the top and bottom of the marble tiles to shape it to the tiles. Even with pre-cut marble tiles, you might have to make some adjustments to their size. Take note of any portions of the marble tiles that need to be removed or cut to fit the tiles and mark them off on the top and bottom with a straight edge and pencil.


Start by placing your straight edge onto the top and draw a line to mark the region to be removed. Afterward, turn the marble tiles over and mark a line on the bottom parallel to the top one. Now, connect each line via lines on the sides. Make sure that there are 4 lines total—the top, bottom, and 2 side lines.

How to Clean a marble tiles Shower?

A marble tiles shower is an elegant and chic addition to anyone’s bathroom. Unfortunately, there are also drawbacks with marble tiles, especially when you have to clean it. marble tiles is a porous rock that tends to absorb chemicals and dyes that are found in traditional cleaners. For this reason, many different things can end up ruining your shower’s sleek finish.


Luckily, if you use the right techniques and limit the chemicals you use when you clean, you can have a shiny marble tiles shower that’s free of stains and dirt. Wipe down your shower after each use. It’s important that you wipe it clean after every use because the chemicals found in your soap may hurt the marble tiles.


Use a dry cotton rag or dishcloth to wipe the moisture from the walls and basin of your shower after you use it. Fill a spray bottle with warm water a tbsp (14.7 ml) of mild dish soap. Use regular warm water to fill a spray bottle and add a tbsp (14.7 ml) of non-abrasive, pH-neutral, dish soap into the bottle.


Select an undyed dish soap that does not contain any abrasives like sand or stone, and that doesn’t contain any acids like citrus, lemon, or vinegar. It will say pH-neutral on the label of your dish soap. Conventional cleaners may contain acids that can damage the surface of your shower. There are specially made marble tiles cleaners that you can purchase at department stores or online.


Popular commercial marble tiles sprays include Black Diamond, Simple Green, and Zep marble tiles Cleaner. Spray the solution onto your shower and rub it in with a damp cloth. Coat the walls and basin of your shower with the solution and rub the solution in a small circular motion. Continue to work around your shower in small circles, concentrating on any built up mildew or dirt.

How Avoiding Common Mistakes?

Start with less toxic cleaners. In general, the least toxic cleaner is best for cement. Start with a mild cleanser, like detergent, and work your way up to chemical cleaners if necessary. Chemicals can wear cement down, so they should be avoided unless absolutely necessary. Do not pour water into acid.


When using an acid-based cleaner, never pour add the acid to a bucket first and then the water. You should add the water followed by the acid. Doing so the other way around can cause a dangerous reaction. Use a deck brush over a push broom. Many people use push brooms to target cement floors.


However, push brushes are actually less effective than deck brushes. The bristles are too long to effectively remove dirt and debris from cement. If you don’t have a deck brush, buy one at a hardware store. Apply 1 / 2 in (1.3 cm) of mortar to stone finishes. When you’re ready to begin the installation, use a trowel and other tools to coat each panel.


Start with the panel you intend on positioning on the lower left corner of the wall. Spread mortar around from top to bottom and left to right into a flat, smooth layer. Do this for each panel as you install it. Dampening the stones with a spray of water from a hose can help the mortar stick to them. If you need to cut the stone panels to fit on the wall, use a circular saw with a diamond-tipped masonry blade.


Install the stones from the bottom of the wall to the top. Work from the base of the wall, starting in one of the corners. Push the stone panel firmly onto the wall until mortar begins squeezing out from underneath it. Move onto the panels that fit next to and above it, leaving a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) gap between each one. Keep this gap uniform throughout the entire wall.

How Doing a Routine Cleaning?

Sweep away and dirt or debris. Any loose dirt, debris, or dust should be swept from cement floors or walls before you begin cleaning. Use a broom to sweep the cement as clean as you can before applying a cleaner. When sweeping down a cement wall, lay down a tarp to catch loose dirt, debris, and dust.


Put on protective gear if necessary. When using chemical cleaners, such as degreasers, gloves and goggles are generally necessary. You should also wear older clothing, regardless of what kind of cleaner you’re using, as cleaning cement may get messy. Prepare a cleaning solution. Mildly dirty cement can be cleaned with mild laundry detergent diluted with warm water.


In a bucket, mix a third cup of your detergent with a gallon of water. When using degreaser, consult the label to figure out the proper degreaser to water ratio. Pour the solution on the concrete. It’s best to work in sections, especially when cleaning a large amount of cement. Pour enough of your cleaner over the cement you’re working on to get it thoroughly wet.


For very dirty concrete, allow the cleaner to sit for a few minutes before proceeding to clean it. Scrub the concrete. Use a deck brush to scrub your cleaner into the cement. Work the cleaner in until you’ve removed any troublesome layers of dirt and dust, and any obvious stains or set in dirt.


For very dirty floors, let the cleaner sit for five to ten minutes after scrubbing it once. Then, repeat the process. Rinse with a hose or pressure washer. A pressure washer is the best means to remove a cleaner from cement. These can be rented at most hardware stores. If you do not have a pressure washer, a high pressure hose can be used to rinse the cement.

How to Install New Baseboard?


Baseboard is the trim that fits along the floor and makes a transition from floor to wall. It can help hold flooring in place. You may want to install baseboard in a new room or remodeled room or replace damaged baseboard. This is a simple job that most people with a few tools can handle.


Remove the old baseboard if it exists. Pry off the old baseboard carefully with a small pry bar so you can use it to mark and cut the new molding. Protect the wall as you pry off old molding so it won’t be damaged. Use a piece of scrap wood between the wall and the pry bar. You may be able to cut off damaged areas of molding and re-use part of the old molding.


Remove any nails that pull through the old molding and are left in the wall. Measure, mark and cut the new molding. Using the old molding to make a template for corner cuts and cuts around outlets or other obstructions is ideal. Make a template out of stiff paper or cardboard for difficult cuts if there is no old molding.


Molding pieces should end at a wall stud. Try to cut pieces so that you join two pieces at a wall stud. Allow for the depth of both pieces of the molding when butting two pieces together at a corner. If you have a miter box you can miter the corners (cut at an angle) so they fit together neatly. Make sure cuts where molding will meet another piece in a line are perfectly straight to avoid gaps between pieces.


Fit the molding pieces in place and adjust if needed. Make sure any flooring and wall coverings such as wallpaper or paneling are in place and any painting is done before installing the molding. Work with one wall at a time. Start at one corner and fit all the pieces in place.

How to Repair Cracks in Wood Floors?


Get some sawdust from the floor you want to repair. If you don’t have any leftover pieces of matching wood laying around your house, you’ll have to go to a flooring store and buy a piece of wood to match. (same species and stain if possible).


If you can’t find any wood to match, you’ll have to “cannibalize” a piece of the existing floor. Pull up the baseboard and pry up a strip from the edge of the floor, or alternatively, remove a piece from under a doorway. Sand the side of the wood nearest the wall where it will be hidden under the baseboard once it’s re-laid, or at the edge of the strip under the door where it’s hidden by the door jamb.


Using a belt sander, sand off a cup or two of wood from the piece of wood into a container (or however much you think you’ll need to fill the cracks). Mix the sawdust with some wood glue to make a fairly thick paste. Using a plastic trowel (or a plastic spatula), lay the sawdust/glue mixture into the cracks. Try to finish off as smooth as possible.


Wipe the patch and adjacent flooring with a damp rag to wipe off any excess. Wipe on a diagonal to avoid pulling filler out of the patch. Let the filler dry for a day or two. Hiring a flooring specialist to work on your home involves a certain amount of trust. Go online to read reviews of contractors in your area or ask a friend or loved one for a personal recommendation to find one that meets your standards.


Sand lightly. If there’s a huge color difference between the patch and the rest of the floor, you might need to re-stain the patch.Using a very small artist’s brush, stain the patch. Allow to dry for a minute and wipe off. Let the stain set overnight and using another small artist’s brush, cover the patch with a coat of varnish to match the existing floor.

How to Close Gaps in Laminate Flooring?


With enough time and wear, unsightly gaps can begin to open up in interlocking laminate flooring. Fortunately, this tends to be a minor issue, and correcting it won’t require you to go to the trouble of replacing the flooring altogether. For most jobs, all you’ll need is a simple tube of wood glue, or a mallet and flat object heavy enough to provide enough traction to allow you to tap the planks back into place.


This will ensure that the far end remains concealed by the baseboard. If you go towards the wall instead, you may end up having to deal with gaps in adjacent planks as a result. When correcting more than one plank in the same row, it may be necessary to also move the neighboring planks inward to keep the spacing consistent and avoid making the gap worse.


Tap the end of the block with a mallet to close the gap. Steady the tool with one hand and give the side furthest from the gap a couple whacks to move the loose plank closer to the one it’s drifted away from. It should slide along a few millimeters at a time. Continue tapping the block until the plank rests snugly against its neighbor.


Be careful not to strike the block too forcefully. This could dislodge it, or even damage the underside of the flooring. After successfully closing the gap, simply pull up the floor gap fixer to remove it. Repeat with any remaining gaps. Use the block and mallet to repair any other slipped planks that have appeared in your laminate flooring. Work carefully to keep your floor looking neat. All in all, the project should only take a matter of minutes.


If necessary, wipe off any dust or debris that’s accumulated on the adhesive pad with a damp cloth before the next time you use it. If you own a floor gap fixer tool, consider using it in conjunction with a touch of wood glue to ensure that the gap stays closed for good.