How Eliminate mortar voids?

/in /by

A typical ceramic tile installation involves spreading a thin-set mortar on the surface with a notched trowel, then pressing the ceramic tile into the mortar to collapse the ridges and improve contact between the tile and mortar. Unfortunately, this practice can leave many voids in the mortar behind the tile.


While this would not be a concern with opaque ceramic tile, the randomly distributed air pockets or voids may be visible through clear or translucent glass. The mortar should still be spread with a notched trowel onto the substrate, but it should also be spread (back-buttered) in an even, thin film onto the back of the glass tile.


Now, when the two mortared surfaces are pressed together, the back of the tile is already covered, so any remaining voids from the mortar ridges are hidden and do not show through the glass tile. Keep in mind that standard thin-set mortars can shrink and pull away from the tile, causing voids and air bubbles during the curing process, so make sure that the mortar resists shrinkage too.


Tape the sheets to the tiles, then trace and scribe the cut lines. When all the paper templates are just right, tape each one to a tile and use a pencil to transfer the cut pattern. After that, remove the paper and use a tile scribe to score 0.125 in (0.32 cm) deep lines into the tiles, tracing right over top of the pencil lines.


Tile scribes can look like thick pencils or come in other shapes. Look for them at hardware stores or online. Remove the unneeded tile with tile nippers. Slowly and carefully squeeze the handles to snip away small “bites” of tile from the sections that need to be removed. Turn your small “bites” into tiny “nibbles” as you get to the score lines. If you try to snip off too much, you risk breaking the tile and having to start over.

How Cutting a Single Tile before Toilet Installation?

/in /by

Use an angle grinder to score the circular shape into the tile. Attach a 4 in (10 cm) diamond wheel blade to the grinder, and position it so the circular blade is at roughly a 45-degree angle to the tile. Slowly work your way around the circle traced into the tile, using very light pressure. You only need to score the tile about 0.125 in (0.32 cm) deep on this initial pass


Use caution at all times. Tie back long hair and remove any dangling jewelry, and wear long sleeves and safety glasses. The grinder will kick up a lot of dust, so wear a dust mask and consider buying a vacuum attachment that you can connect to your grinder. Angle grinders are an affordable and useful small power tool you can find at any hardware store.


Diamond blades are more expensive than other blades you can get for the grinder, but they cut through tile much better. Cut sacrificial break notches if the circle is near the tile’s edge. If there is less than about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of space between your traced circle and an edge of the tile, there’s a good chance the tile will break while cutting it.


If this is the case, use a grinder to cut two or more deep lines from the circumference to the nearest edge of the tile (about half of the tile). Our goal is to have tiles stick to these selected, controlled points, not random ones. Once you put the tiles in place, the straight, short, controllable cracks on the tiles will be almost invisible, especially because the toilet will be placed on them.


Continue grinding around the circle with gentle pressure. Once you’ve finished scoring the tile surface and creating any sacrificial break notches, keep making slow, steady passes with the grinder at a 45-degree angle. If the tile breaks at the sacrificial points, remove that section and keep cutting. Eventually, you’ll grind your way through the tile and have the circular cutout that you need.

How Cutting Multiple Tiles before Toilet Installation?

/in /by

Score the cut lines with a tile scribe. A tile scribe is a small, sharp hand tool that etches a cut line into the tile. This etching helps make sure the tile snaps where you want it to instead of breaking or cracking elsewhere. The scoring only needs to be 0.125 in (0.32 cm) or so deep.


You can get a tile scribe at any hardware store or online. Use tile nippers to clip away the excess tile. Think of tile nippers as industrial-strength fingernail clippers. Start at the corner of the tile that’s being cut away, and squeeze the handles together to make the top and bottom blades take small “bites” out of the tile. Start “nibbling” more carefully as you approach the scored line.


Standard tile nippers will work with practically every kind of tile, although some natural stone tiles (like slate) may be too fragile. Consult your tile supplier if needed. You can also use specialty tile nippers for glass tiles or other particular types. Be careful not to nip one of your fingers while you work. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from cut tile edges and safety glasses to protect your eyes from snipped shards of tile.


Make sure your cuts are correct by dry-fitting the tiles. Because the toilet base will cover the cut tile edge, your cuts don’t need to be perfect. However, take the time to dry-fit the tiles in place to make sure your cuts are generally accurate—ideally, no more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) larger than the flange.


Use plastic spacers to account for your grout lines when dry-fitting the tiles. If you’re going to rest a removable toilet flange on top of the installed tiles, remember to remove it before dry-fitting (and later, when laying the tile!). If your dry-fit lines up properly, you’re ready to set these tiles in place in the same way you did the rest of the floor.

How Tracing Tile Cut Lines before Toilet Installation?

/in /by

Tile the areas away from the toilet flange first. When tiling a bathroom, mark out your desired grid pattern on the floor, and lay tile over the unobstructed areas first. Don’t tile around the toilet flange—the circular piece that connects to the drain pipe and upon which the toilet itself will rest—until the end.


Draw out a grid pattern for the tile layout on paper, and then on the subfloor itself, that reduces the number of tile cuts you need to make. If you’re using larger tiles—e.g., 12 by 12 in (30 by 30 cm) or larger—you may be able to cut a circle out of a single tile to go around the flange.

Cut one or more sheets of paper that match the size of your tiles. If you need to cut 1 tile to go around the flange, cut 1 sheet of paper; if you need 4 tiles, cut 4 sheets of paper. Be as precise as possible in sizing the sheets of paper properly. For instance, if your tiles are 8 by 8 in (20 by 20 cm), cut your sheets of paper to those dimensions.


Lay the sheet(s) of paper in place, overlapping the flange. Place the sheet(s) of paper exactly where the tile(s) will go, making sure to account for the spacing of your grout lines. That is, if your other tiles are spaced 0.125 in (0.32 cm) apart due to the grout lines, leave this same gap between the set tiles and your paper.


You can employ the same plastic spacers you use when laying the tile to make sure your grout line spacing is consistent with your paper templates. If you only need to cut a single tile, just lay a single sheet of paper right over the flange.

How to Cut Tile Around a Toilet?

/in /by

If DIY tasks like replacing a toilet and installing a tile floor are within your skill set, then you can also handle tiling around a toilet. Cutting tiles to fit neatly around the base of an installed toilet requires careful template-making and tile-nipping, however, so patience and precision are critical.


In most cases, you’ll have more room for error if you remove the toilet, trace and cut one or multiple tiles to fit around the toilet flange, and then reinstall or replace the old toilet. For instance, imagine that you have a toilet with an angular base that will necessitate cutting a triangular section away from one of the corners of one of your tiles.


You’d cut the parallel slits into that same area of the corresponding sheet of paper, with a little extra “wiggle room” added to your cuts. Lay each sheet into place and crease the slits along the toilet base. One at a time, lay the sheets of paper down where their corresponding tiles will go, remembering to account for spacing between tiles due to grout lines. The slits will fan up and over the installed toilet’s base.


Use your finger to press a crease into each slit—one at a time—where the subfloor meets the toilet base. When you’re done, you’ll have created an accurate template for that tile. Then you can move onto the next sheet of paper. To account for future grout lines, utilize the same plastic spacers that you use when permanently setting the tiles in place.


Cut the slits along the traced lines and dry-fit the sheets. Once you’ve creased all the sheets of paper, take your scissors and cut carefully along the crease lines. Then, lay all these cut sheets of paper down around the toilet (again, accounting for grout lines) and make sure they fit snugly against the toilet base.

How to Choose Tile for Pools?

/in /by

Designing a new pool can be an overwhelming process, given all of the options available to homeowners these days. Choosing a tile for your pool might not sound like an important decision, but the tile you choose can have a big impact on your pool’s durability and overall appearance.


Fortunately, there are a variety of ways you can go about choosing a pool tile that’s right for you, like looking at different styles, finding a good material, and visiting your local tile store. Install the tile. Once you’re satisfied with your layout, all that’s left to do is call a tiling contractor and have your tile put in professionally.


You might also consider tackling the job yourself if you’re handy with home improvement projects. When you’re done, you’ll have a handsome, custom-designed tiled floor to show for your efforts. Take care of any necessary last-minute adjustments before you break out the mortar and grout.


By the time you’ve begun setting the tiles, it will be too late to make changes. Keep in mind that the tiles will have to come up prior to installation. This isn’t an issue—when the time comes, simply lay them out again in the same formation you used during the dry-fitting phase.


If one or more do not, get more paper and repeat the process. You want the finished tiles to rest right up against the base of the toilet, so take your time to make sure the paper templates fit precisely.

How Tracing and Cutting Tiles Around an Installed Toilet?

/in /by

Install the full tiles surrounding the toilet first. Take your time planning out your tile pattern and creating grid lines on the subfloor so that you need to make as few angular/circular tile cuts as possible. When you’re tiling around an already-installed toilet, plan out your pattern so that at there is at least 2 in (5.1 cm) of space between the base of the toilet and the edges of any of the tiles you’ll be laying around it.

You’ll usually save time (due to a greater margin for error with your tile cuts) if you remove the toilet, tile the floor, and then reinstall or replace the toilet. However, tiling around an existing toilet may be preferable in some cases. Tiling around an installed toilet is easier if the base rests flush against the wall behind the toilet.

If you have to tile all the way around the base, including the small space between it and the wall, strongly consider removing the toilet, tiling around the toilet flange, and reinstalling the toilet. Create sheets of paper that are the same size as a whole tile. Simply cut the paper to match the size of the tile—for instance, 16 by 16 in (41 by 41 cm).

Cut one sheet for each tile you’ll need to lay around the base of the toilet. Estimate your tile cuts and cut parallel slits in the paper in these areas. Visualize how each tile will fit around the toilet base, and estimate which parts of each tile will need to be cut away.

Transfer these estimates to the corresponding sheets of paper, and use scissors to cut parallel slits that are about 0.25 in (0.64 cm) apart in the areas that will need to be removed. When doing so, it’s better to overestimate the area that will need to be removed than to underestimate.

How Choosing Pool Tile Online or In-Store?

/in /by

Look for tile online for inspiration. Look online for images of pools that you like and find out what kind of tile they’re finished with. Browse through websites for pool tile companies and see what different kind of tile they offer. Read online reviews to find good-quality tile. See what other homeowners are saying about particular kinds of pool tile and different tile businesses.

Take notes as you do your research. Use your notes to narrow down a few types of good-quality tile and some good places to buy them.Look at tile in a store to see what you like. Pay attention to the overall quality and feel of the different tiles. Do you prefer tile that is smooth or abrasive?

Hold up different tiles and see if you like how the light reflects off of them. Hold different tiles side by side to see if you like them together. Shop for slip-resistant tile for kids. Finish any edges or walkways around your pool with slip-resistant tile to prevent kids from falling and hurting themselves.

Trim end tiles to fit around household fixtures. It may also be necessary to cut tiles when they run up against door jambs, cabinet bases, air vents, fireplaces, and similar obstacles. To do this, record the length and width of the object protruding into the tile space, then mark those measurements on the tile using a straight edge.

Use a wooden shim or scrap piece of cardboard to account for the grout lines in your measurements. Make sure the lines you draw on your tiles are plainly visible. They’ll serve as a guide when it comes time to do your cutting.

How Choosing Pool Tile by Style?

/in /by

Use larger tile for easier upkeep. Save time cleaning your pool tile by having a larger tile finish, which has fewer seams that can collect dirty buildup. Go with smaller tile to create a captivating design. Add dimension to your pool by using smaller tile, which makes pool designs look more intricate.

Creating a mosaic or tile image is easier to do with small tile than with larger tile. Opt for blue tile for a classic swimming pool look. Incorporate multiple hues of blue into your design to add depth to your pool and make it more interesting. Use one shade of blue for a clean, uniform appearance.

Match your tile color with a color from your home for a unique pool design. Use red tile to complement the red brick on your house, or go with a green tile that blends with the surrounding landscape. Using a tile color other than blue will immediately make your pool stand out.

Mark the last tile in each row to indicate where to cut it if needed. As you near the edges of the room, you may find that you don’t have enough space to set the final tile. When this happens, you’ll need to cut your end tiles to ensure a proper fit. Measure the distance between the last full tile you laid down and the wall and mark this measurement on the end tile. You can cut the tile later using a masonry saw.

If the space left over at the end of a row is especially narrow, pick up the rest of the tiles in the row and shift them down half a tile’s length towards the opposite wall. Adjust your other rows accordingly. That way, you’ll have a larger partial tile at either end rather than a tiny sliver visible along only 1 wall.

How Choosing Pool Tile by Material?

/in /by

Use porcelain if you’re on a budget. Porcelain tile is the cheapest and most common tile finishing option for pools. Create a beautiful mosaic or pattern using porcelain tile to enhance your pool design. Finish with stone for a natural look. Stone pool tile blends nicely with surrounding landscaping, and it’s great for young children because of its slip-resistant properties.

Use stone tile made from a beautiful type of stone like sandstone, limestone, or granite to create a smooth, sophisticated finish. Go with glass for a luxurious touch. Create a glass tile finish that shimmers and dazzles pool-goers with its reflective properties. Keep in mind that glass tile is more expensive than stone and porcelain tile.

If the tiles are more than 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm) across, you may be able to cut them with a score-and-snap tile cutter. Press the cut tiles into place. Make sure that you keep the grouting gaps between the tiles consistent so that they match up with the grouting gaps on the tiles that are already on the wall.

This line will intersect the first line, indicating the exact center of the room. When tiling adjoining rooms, draw your lines so that they run from 1 room to the next. Make sure the line is positioned in the center of both rooms. Use the “3-4-5” method to find the center of irregularly-shaped rooms. Measure and mark 4 feet (1.2 m) outward from the center of the line you drew from the longest wall. Then, make a second mark 3 feet (0.91 m) down along the center of the wall line.

Stretch your tape measure between the 3 ft (0.91 m) mark and the 4 ft (1.2 m) mark. The distance between the 2 marks should be exactly 5 ft (1.5 m). Make a final mark where the tape measure crosses the 4 ft (1.2 m) mark to pinpoint the room’s center.

This method is useful for establishing a starting point in rooms with odd dimensions.