How Buffing Your Floor by Hand?

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Start in the far corner of the room. Then, work your way backward toward the entrance to the room. Don’t pass back over areas you’ve already buffed, as they need time to dry. Work in 3 ft (0.91 m) by 3 ft (0.91 m) sections until you finish buffing. Focusing on small sections will help you achieve better results. Plus, it will keep you from getting overwhelmed during the process.


If you don’t like the results of your first few sections, you might decide to stop hand buffing the floor and switch to a machine. Some floors won’t show much improvement from hand buffing. Depending on the size of your room, it can take a while to finish buffing. It’s a good idea to take regular breaks, if necessary.


Spray a buffing solution onto your floor for extra shine. When you’re buffing by hand, spray the solution onto just the area where you’re working so the solution won’t be dry by the time you get across the room. It’s best to use a bottle with a spray nozzle to evenly distribute the solution.


If your solution doesn’t have a spray nozzle, use a clean cloth to wipe it onto the floor. Make sure you choose a buffing solution that’s formulated for your type of flooring material. If you prefer a natural option, create a white vinegar solution by adding 1 cup (240 mL) of white vinegar to 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. Put the solution into a spray bottle, then spritz it onto your floor.


Use a microfiber cloth to buff the floor using tight, circular motions. Move your cloth slowly from side to side as you work each section. When you complete each pass, start the next one with some overlap with the previous pass. As you buff, apply as much pressure to the cloth as you can.

How Waxing Your Floor?

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You can use an auto scrubber or floor machine for this step as well, as long as you change the pad beforehand. Don’t use the same pad you used to apply or wipe up the stripping solution. Wash all tools used. Thoroughly clean any tools used, including the interior of machinery hoses and tanks. If left uncleaned, the stripping solution will dry into a hardened mess and ruin your tools.


Let your floor dry completely. Don’t move on to waxing your floor until it is completely dry, or the wax may not attach properly. You can put a fan in the room to hasten the drying process. Apply wax to your mop. Immerse a sponge mop into the wax, or pour some wax onto the upper side of a flat wax applicator mop.


If your mop is dripping, you should press it into the wringer portion of the mop bucket or press it against the sides of the bucket. Don’t actually wring your mop; the goal is to make it damp with wax, not dry or dripping. Apply the wax to one small section of floor at a time. Start at the opposite end of the room from the door so you don’t have to cross the waxed portion to leave the room.


If you try to wax too large an area at once, you are more likely to miss spots or apply the wax unevenly. If your first layer is too thick, the whole process could fail to set properly. Be careful not to drip excess wax onto the floor, and only use a damp,not soaked mop. Once the floor in one section is evenly covered, mop over it with broad strokes in the same direction to create an even appearance. Now you can move on to the next section.


Wait for it to dry completely. This should take about half an hour, but could be longer in areas with high humidity. After ten minutes of natural drying, you can point a fan into the room to make it dry faster, but do not point it directly at the waxed floor. This could interfere with the adhesive. Read the label of your floor wax for more accurate estimate of drying time.

How to Buff Floors?

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If you have scratched or scuffed floors, buffing them can refresh their shine. You can improve the look of your floors by buffing them by hand, but it’s best to buy or rent a floor buffer, which uses slow speeds and high pressure to remove and replace the top layer of finish on your flooring. You can buff any type of floor, whether it’s wood, vinyl, concrete, or tile.


Before you buff your floor, make sure you secure the area and clean the floor to remove any grime. Then, use a microfiber cloth or a spray buffing machine to restore your floor’s shine. Rotate your machine back and forth as you move across each section


Although the buffer is doing most of the work for you, rotating it will help you achieve a better result. Not only does it ensure the buffer covers all of the surface area, but it will also help you really work areas where there are scratches or scuffs. Your motion should swing back and forth like a pendulum.


Move backward as you work so you don’t step on the buffed sections. This helps you avoid stepping on the parts of the floor you’ve already buffed. You don’t want to step on the buffed areas because they will be very slippery. Also, you don’t want to mess up the finish. Walk slowly so you don’t accidentally trip over your own feet.


Hold the buffer over scratches and scuffs for a few extra seconds. As you work, look for visible scratches and buffs. It’s okay to give these areas special attention by holding the buffer over them for a few extra seconds. Additionally, you can make several passes over them. If you still notice a scratch or scuff after you finish, you can try hand rubbing it with a soft cloth soaked in buffing solution.

How Using a Spray Buffer?

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Spray the buffing solution onto your floor, if you’re using it. For best results, use a professional sprayer or a product that comes with a spray nozzle. Start in the far corner of the room and work your way toward the other side. Aim the spray 2–4 ft (61–122 cm) in front of the buffer in an area that’s about 6–8 in (15–20 cm) wide.


Use a buffing solution formulated for the type of floor material you have, such as wood, tile, or vinyl. If you don’t have a sprayer, you can use a mop to apply the solution. However, it won’t be as effective at distributing it. You can buy or rent a sprayer from most home improvement stores. Additionally, some buffing solutions come in a spray bottle.


Attach a red buffing pad if you’re spray buffing your floor. This pad is intended for use on a wet floor, so it will soak up some of the buffing solution. Follow the instructions for your buffer to attach it correctly. Be sure to read all of the instructions that come with your buffer.


It’s best to have an extra pad handy if you’re going to be buffing a large surface area. Although you’ll be able to use both sides of the pad, it can get clogged up or dirty as you work. If you’re spray buffing your floor, you’ll need both a red pad and a gray or beige pad, for best results. Your floor will look better if you do a dry buffing after your spray buffing.

Work in 3 ft (0.91 m) by 3 ft (0.91 m) sections. Start in the far corner of the room and work your way back toward the entrance. As you buff the floor, mentally separate it into small sections to make it easier to buff the entire surface area of the floor. Overlap your passes to ensure every bit of flooring gets buffed.

How Avoiding Damage to Your Floor?

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Wash your floor immediately after a spill. All spills on marble should be cleaned up immediately. This is because marble is a porous material and can absorb spills. If you let something sit too long, your marble will discolor or stain. Take a wet microfiber cloth and use it to blot up anything you’ve spilled on the marble floor.


Use pH neutral solution. pH neutral cleaners won’t damage marble floors. As a result, stay away from acidic cleaners. They might scratch or hurt the shine of marble floors. Avoid: Vinegar, Ammonia, Citrus cleaners (like lemon or orange). Cleaners intended for ceramic floors.


Do not let your floor air dry. One of the worst things you can do to your floor is to let it air dry. By letting it air dry, you’ll allow the water/solution to soak into the marble. This could stain or discolor the marble. Seal your marble. The best way to limit staining on your floor is to seal your marble periodically.


Locate a sealing product specifically formulated for marble. Read the directions and apply the seal onto the surface of the marble. Depending on the product (and use), you may have to reseal every three to five years. Make sure to protect other surfaces, such as wood, tile, or grout, with plastic or painters tape. Contact a professional if you are uncomfortable sealing your marble floors by yourself.


Use a felt pad to remove scuff marks. When you come across a scuff or other mark that won’t come off during a normal washing, use a felt pad to remove it. Simply dab the pad in a mixture of detergent and water and rub the marble gently along its grain. Do not rub in a circular pattern. This will damage your marble.

How Mopping Your Floor?

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Use hot water. Whether you are creating a solution to wash your floor, or just using water, you should use hot water. Hot water will help cut through grime. Ultimately, by using hot water, you’ll decrease the chance that you’ll need tougher solvents that could damage the marble.


Focus on distilled water. Distilled water is water that has gone through a process to remove minerals and other impurities. By using distilled water, you’ll reduce the chance of discoloring or staining your marble. You can buy distilled water at just about any grocery store or box store. It is usually cheap.


Add a mild detergent to your water. Add a mild detergent such as 2-3 drops of dish soap into a bucket with your hot, distilled water. Follow the directions of the soap and dilute it with an appropriate amount of water. Mix your solution thoroughly. Make sure to only add pH neutral soap to your water.


Harsh chemical solutions like bleach, hydrogen peroxide, ammonia, and vinegar can be damaging to your floors. Avoid using these on marble. If you prefer, you may be able to use a commercially prepared marble cleaner. Simply follow the directions on the bottle and then clean as you would with a water and detergent solution. Some products include Stone Tech, Resolve, or Simple Green.


Use a soft mop on your floor. Take a mop with a soft mop head (preferably microfiber) and dip it into your solution of detergent and water. Wring out the mop head to relieve it of excess water and systematically mop your floor. Do short strokes that overlap. Rinse and wring out the mop head after you’ve covered 10 to 20 square feet (1 to 2 square meters). This might vary depending on how dirty the floor is.

The Knowledge of Wax a Floor

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Use an auto scrubber or floor machine to work in the stripping solution (optional). For large jobs, an auto scrubber or rotary machine is recommended, as it will do a thorough job pulling up all the finish. If using an auto scrubber, scrub the area leaving the squeegee tool up (not in use).


If using a floor machine or burnishing machine, use the stripping pad attachment. Large jobs may require multiple stripping pads. Scrape wax from the edges and corners of the floor. You can use a doodle pad for this or a long handled razor blade tool such as a poll scraper. If you don’t want to buy a specialized tool, any sharp flat blade such as a putty knife will do the job.


Without stepping on the slippery floor stripping solution, use the blade to work the wax away from edges, where the stripping solution and mop have difficulty pulling off the finish. You may need to scrub the baseboard as well, if it has picked up wax residue. You can purchase a special baseboard stripping pad if you are using a floor machine.


Remove the stripping solution and finish with a wet vacuum or auto scrubber. Do this after the finish has been worked off but before the solution has dried. If you worked in the stripping solution with an auto scrubber, simply lower the squeegee attachment and pick it up again. Otherwise, you’ll need a wet vacuum to remove the solution. If a section begins to dry out, pour a little water from your clean water bucket to keep it wet.


Wash your floor using the clean mop and water bucket. Rinse several times to ensure all stripping solution is removed. You can add a stripping neutralizer to your water to ensure the next wax will adhere properly. If you don’t want to buy one, simply wash it thoroughly several times.

How to Wax a Floor?

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Waxing or finishing your floor protects it, creates a no-slip surface, and adds an attractive shine. As long as you apply it correctly, and don’t mind topping up the wax once or twice a year, you can create a durable, beautiful surface. Where waxing once required you to rub a paste into the floor on your hands and knees, all but the most dedicated now choose a no-buff wax that you can simply mop onto the floor.


If you don’t want to strip a previous finish, you can use a water-based silicone polish instead of waxing. Simply sweep the floor, then apply several even layers of the polish with a mop. Remove all furniture and objects from the floor. Determine where you plan to wax and remove everything from that area. Put up signs in public areas to let people know the area will be off limits for at least 8 hours.


To be extra safe, tape down the edge of any adjacent area to protect it from the wax, especially carpet areas. Determine whether you need to strip your floor. If your floor has not previously been treated with wax or finish, you can skip straight to Waxing the Floor. If it was treated with wax but the old layer only suffers from scratches, not discoloration, you can also skip straight to waxing.


Otherwise, you should continue on to Stripping the Old Finish section to learn how to strip the previous treatment away. Use a mop to apply floor stripping solution from the far end of the floor to the exit. Stripping solution makes the floor slippery, so plan your route in advance to avoid having to walk over it.


Scrub the floor evenly and allow to sit for 5 to 10 minutes, but do not allow it to dry. Try to agitate the finish with your mop as you apply the stripping solution. The stripping solution should change color as it removes and mingles with the finish over the next few minutes If you are stripping a large floor, do so in small sections so the stripping solution doesn’t dry.

How Caring for a Waxed Floor?

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Reapply wax to the floors regularly. Wooden floors should have an additional layer of wax added once every six to twelve months. Vinyl floors should be waxed every six months, as should sealed ceramic or stone floors. Don’t use a soaking mop, and never mop waxed hardwood. The wax seal is not watertight, so the water could damage the wood.


Wipe up spills with a damp paper towel instead. Vinyl and other non-wood surfaces can be cleaned with a damp mop, not a soaking one. This does not apply to wood treated with polyurethane, which can be mopped with a mop dampened by a mixture of one quart (1 liter) water and 1/4 cup (60 mL) vinegar.


Buff or polish the floor if the shine fades. Use a terry cloth or buffing pad to polish the floor if it begins to get dull. This shouldn’t be necessary for no-buff wax. Sand or scrub off part of the wax if it becomes yellowed or discolored. If you don’t want to do this manually, use a floor machine with a light scrubbing pad just strong enough to remove a small portion of the wax.


You should apply a new layer or two of wax after removing some to create a strong protective layer again. This should not be required for several years at least if your floor was waxed properly. Buff the floor if it the wax requires it. Many waxes are no-buff and will remain glossy with no further effort.


Others require polishing with a buffing pad or burnishing machine. If you don’t want to track down specialized equipment, simply use a clean, dry terry cloth towel to polish your floor with a circular motion. Tie the towel around a dry mop head and you don’t have to be on your hands and knees. A buffing pad can be attached under the brush of the floor machine and used to buff the floor.

How Waxing the Floor?

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Follow manufacturer’s instructions if you are using a finish instead of a wax. Floor wax is a natural product that works into the pores of the wood. If you are trying to create a similar result using a synthetic finish, which bonds over the wood, you will need to follow the specific instructions that came with your product.


Polyurethane, the most common modern finish, should be stirred, then applied as quickly as possible and in one back and forth layer across the room, overlapping the previous stroke so you keep a wet edge. You should wear an organic vapor respirator mask and keep a fan blowing out a window while you work.


Sweep and mop your floor until it’s as clean as you can make it. Use a dust mop to pick up as much dust and as many small particles as possible. Anything you don’t get off the floor is likely to get caught in the wax, where it will stay until someone strips off the wax.


Use a new sponge mop or flat wax applier mop. Never use a used mop, even if it doesn’t look dirty. Sponge mops that have also been used for cleaning the floor are likely to introduce dirt into the wax, ruining the look.


Line the mop bucket with a garbage bag and fill with floor wax. The trash bag prevents the wax from caking onto the mop bucket and ruining it for future uses. If you are using a flat wax applicator mop, you can skip this step. Those mops are designed to have the wax poured directly onto the mesh backing on the upper side.