What Should We Do After Install Marble Floor Tile?

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Adding the Finishing Touches. Seal the marble tiles.Marble porcelain tiles is very soft and prone to damage so it is important to apply a coat of high quality marble sealing agent before proceeding with the grout. This seal is also important because marble flooring is very porous and grout can cause stains in the tiles. Apply the sealing agent over the tops of the marble. Even if you prefer the color and look of unsealed marble floor tiles you can use a “grout release”-type sealer to prevent grout from sticking to the marble tiles design.

Mix grout according to the instructions on the packaging.Grout, or mortar, will be used ot fill in the spaces between the cement tiles. Be sure to wear a dust mask, safety goggles, and heavy-duty work gloves. Wear a long-sleeve shirt to avoid any possible damage to your skin from contact with the grout. Mix only enough as will be used in 15-20 minutes of work or else the extra can dry out and harden. .Dampen the spaces between the tiles design using a moist sponge. This prepares the spaces for the grout or mortar.

Fill the spaces with cement. Spread the concrete evenly over the spaces between the wall tiles using a squeegee. Be careful to avoid getting wood tiles on the tops of the floor tiles. Some will inevitably get on top of the tiles but you want to minimize the amount. Try to push it into the spaces as much as possible to create a tight fight. Wipe up any grout on top of the tiles as you go.

Use a squeegee to spread out the grout. Use a squeegee to spread out the grout and leave a smooth surface in the cracks. You can also use a gloved finger to run down the grooves and smooth the top of the grout. Use a clean sponge to wipe down the surface of the wood marble tiles. Use a damp sponge to wipe down the tops of the tiles to remove any excess grout. Try not to get extra moisture into the grout or else it can make it too wet.

Allow the grout to dry. Allow the grout to dry for the length of time required by the manufacturer. Some will require long curing times to ensure maximum strength. Seal the grout. Use a disposable sponge applicator to paint the grout with a grout sealer. This will help prevent stains and dirt from permanently discoloring the grout. It will also make cleaning easier later on. Clean tools with water or acetone. Clean your tools with water or acetone to remove the excess grout or mortar and prepare them for use once again.

How to Install Marble Floor Tile?

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Place the marble tiles in the pattern. Place your tiles within the grid you have created. This dry-run allows you to identify areas where you will need to cut floor tiles to fit and will help you determine the best place to start laying the tile based on your pattern and the shape of the area you plan to tile. If the gap between the last complete tile and the wall is less than 2 inches (5 cm) then you should move the center tile over. This makes the strip of tile in this area wider, which will look nicer when you lay your tiles design.

Apply a layer of thin-set adhesive on the floor surface using a notched trowel. Be sure to wear heavy-duty work gloves and work one section of the floor at a time. The adhesive should be thick enough that you can use the notched edge of the trowel to make grooves in the adhesive without showing the floor below, but thin enough that it does not push up between the cement tiles. The grooves ensure that the adhesive spreads evenly on the back of the wall tiles. Choose the adhesive recommended for your type of marble. Ask at the location where you purchase your tiles about the proper adhesive to use.

Lay wood marble tiles firmly in the thin-set adhesive. Lay the wood tiles on top of the adhesive within 10 minutes of applying the adhesive. Be careful not to slide the small tiles into place or get adhesive on the top of the tiles. Sliding the tiles into place will push up the adhesive and make the tiles uneven, causing them to crack. Adhesive will be difficult to remove from the tops of the tiles.

Position the tiles in place using spacers.Use spacers to create the correct spacing between the ceramic tiles and keep them even with straight lines along the rows and columns. You should use 1/8 inch (3 mm) marble tile spacers. Spacers help ensure proper placement of the tiles.

Check the level of the tiles.Check the level of the tiles to ensure that no edge “lips”, or rises above the rest of the tiles. Take a length of wood and lay it across the tops of the common marble tiles, using a hammer to lightly tap the wood down. This ensures that all the tiles are at the same level. Use the piece of wood in both directions along the grid to make all the tiles exactly the same level.

Measure the dimension of any partial tiles needed by placing one tile on top of the full tile closest to the wall.Place another tile against the wall so that the edge of the second tile lays on top of the first tile. Score a line in the first tile using a utility knife to mark your cut line for the correct width of tile needed.

Use a wet saw to cut the tiles to fit in the edges along the walls or special spaces.In order to minimize the risk of tiles breaking when they are being cut, saw three-fourths of the length of the tile, turn the tile around and then cut the remaining length. Repeat the process until you have cut all the specially sized tiles and placed them into the adhesive. You can usually rent a wet saw for a day from a local hardware store or tool rental company.

Remove any excess adhesive between the tiles.If you have put too much adhesive beneath the tiles or push the tiles down too hard then it can push up between the tiles. If this has happened then you must take a small knife to cut out these extra bits. Leave tiles undisturbed 24-48 hours to allow adhesive to dry completely. Different adhesives take different lengths of time so check the adhesive instructions for the proper drying time. Do not step on the tiles during this time or else you can make them uneven.

What Should We Do Before Install Marble Floor Tile?

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Installing marble flooring can add beauty and elegance to a bathroom or foyer. With a variety of options in coloring and finish, marble tiles can complement virtually any color scheme. Installing marble floor tile is not an easy process but can be done on your own if you are careful and patient.

Wear gloves, eye protection and a facemask. These will protect your hands, eyes and lungs as you install your marble tiles design. Remove any existing tiles. If you are installing the marble on a floor that is already tiled then you must remove the old tiles first. Ceramic tiles can be smashed with a hammer and then removed. Vinyl tiles should be ripped up with a pry bar. Clean the floor surface you plan to tile and allow it to dry. Before installing any tiles you will want to make sure that the floor surface beneath the tiles is thoroughly cleaned and dried.

Use a long level to make sure the floor area is level. Marble is a very soft tile and can be particularly susceptible to cracking if it is not installed on a level surface. Use the longest level possible to make sure your floor is level. You can try sanding down any bumps that raise the floor or filling in any depressions in the floor surface with thin-set cement. Wait for the cement to completely dry before continuing. You may also need to lay a plywood subfloor to make the floor level. Marble should not be installed on a floor that has a change in height that is more than ¼ inch (6 mm) in a distance of 10 feet (3 m).

Inspect the tiles. Run your finger nails over the wood tiles to make sure there are not cracks or gaps in the polished surface of the tile. You should not use any polished tiles that have these cracks or gaps because they might break in the process of installation or use. Most hardware stores will accept exchanges of kitchen tiles that have cracks or gaps in them.

Measure the length and width of the floor and create a layout on paper.Plan your installation on paper using the floor dimensions and sizes of the wall tiles. Decide on your pattern for laying the tiles. You can lay them in rows or in a pyramid-like structure or in other patterns. Draw the pattern to scale on paper. You want to keep most tiles full-sized so that you do not have to cut them. You also do not want strips of tile that are less than 2 inches (5 cm) wide.

Mark the center of your floor tiles. Measure the center of each wall and make a light mark with a pencil. Then take a chalk snap line and hold it to either end of the centers of two opposing walls. Lower the line and snap it to the floor to make a chalk line. Do this for the other two walls as well. Where the two chalk lines meet is the center of your floor. You usually want marble wall tiles to radiate from the center of your floor. Mark your grid on the floor using the chalk line. Continue snapping the chalk line on the floor in the planned grid. This will mark down where your tiles should go.

What Should We Do After Laying Floor Tiles?

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Spreading Adhesive, or Mastic, and Laying ceramic Tiles. Pick up all tiles design and set aside. On your prepared surface, begin spreading the adhesive with the notched trowel. You will start from the center point, work only in one quadrant, and apply small sections at a time, following the pattern during the rehearsal. Spread adhesive evenly, then using the notched edge, make a raking motion. You should have grooves neither too deep nor too shallow. Set the first tile in place at the corner lines made by the center point. Do not twist cement tiles; simply press the tiles down firmly yet softly.

Set marble tiles spacer and then continue with additional marble floor tile. (Remember to set polished tile spacers after each tile). Use your level to determine degree of level of the marble stone tiles as you go along. (Not all surfaces are perfectly level). If slightly uneven, either manipulate the small tiles or add a little more adhesive to the floor until level. Usually, after a quadrant is complete, remove the tiles spacers so they do not set into the adhesive. Follow this process for the remainder of the floor, making sure to check the level as you go along. Wait. After the tiles have been set, it is usually advised to wait at least one day (or overnight) to allow the adhesive to dry, or cure. After the adhesive has cured, you will grout the joints.

Grouting. Continue working in quadrants as before. Using a rubber float, apply only enough grout as you can effectively work with. In a diagonal direction, press grout into the joints to an even level with the tiles. Skim excess from tile with the rubber float. You will notice a mild “grout haze” on your wood marble tiles. Wait a few minutes for the grout to stiffen up in the joints. Use a damp sponge work across the joints, (working along joints can drag out too much grout) to remove grout haze from tiles and finish the joints, make sure not to press too hard on joints. As you work, check each joint is full and smoothly finished. Continue this process with other joints in remaining quadrants.

Consider caulk. For joints at the wall tiles and floor interface it is best to use caulk instead of grout. There are benefits to using caulk along wall joints. All polished porcelain tiles may expand or contract depending on temperature fluctuations. The wall joints are also known as expansion joints. Using caulk here will buffer expansion and contraction a bit. Let the floor cure.Wait for the entire floor to cure for about a week before giving it a good mopping to remove remaining grout haze. You may also choose to seal the grout with a sealer to lock out dirt and or grease.

The Knowledge of Laying Floor Tiles

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You will use 3 full tiles and 1 tile cut to 4 inches (10.2 cm), since the size of the 3 joints plus the 1 wall joint equals 2 inches (5.1 cm) and your original tiles size was 6 inches (15.2 cm) (6 inches original tiles– 2 inches total joint= 4 inch tiles). Note that this does not follow the realignment strategy mentioned above. Because this room is “squared,” the true center is best left where it actually is. Simply make uniform cuts as they correspond to each side (in this case, you will have 9 inch (22.9 cm) tiles as the wall tiles on the “short” 7 foot (2.1 m) walls and 4 inch (10.2 cm) marble tiles on the long 12 foot (3.7 m) walls.

Follow the same process for the other three quadrants. Because this design is uniform, it is best to follow the same size cuts all the way around. Pre-drill some wood tiles to fit over items such as radiator pipes, bath pipes, and so on. To achieve this you may have to drain down radiator systems, remove the rad from the wall and take the taps off the pipework. Very time consuming but worth the effort if a minimal look is desired. Your floor will look better if you can drill a hole in the small tiles and lay the tiles design over the pipe.

Use a diamond hole saw to bore into the wood marble tiles and drill a perfect hole. If you do not have a hole saw you can use a wet-tile saw to cut a square hole in the center of the kitchen floor tiles. Draw a square on the back of the polished tiles in the desired location of the hole. Carefully place the backside of the floor tiles against the wet-saw blade at the midpoint of one of the sides of the square. Gently push the tile against the the blade until the edge of the square is cut. Repeat for the other sides of the square hole. When your floor is rehearsed and all ceramic tiles are laid, measured, and cut, and appear to your liking, you are ready to lay the adhesive,

Cut the cement tiles board with a jigsaw or a carbide-tipped scoring tool. If you need to cut non-linear shapes out of your cement board, use a jigsaw and a carbide-tipped blade. If, however, you’re only cutting straight lines out of the cement board, use a carbide-tipped scoring tool (it costs $10) and a straight edge.

Finish up by mudding and taping the joints of the cement board. This process is almost exactly like mudding and taping drywall, except you’re using mortar instead of compound and fiberglass mesh tape instead of joint tape. Lay down a bit of mortar with your trowel, then press the fiberglass mesh tape into the joint. Then go over the mesh tape with your trowel, pressing it into the seams and locking it firmly in the mortar. Smooth out the resulting joints so that they don’t bulge out, feathering the edges.

How to Lay a Ceramic or Porcelain Tile Floor?

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Decide on your tiles size and pattern. tiles come in different sizes: 4 inch (10.2 cm) by 4 inch (10.2 cm), 8 inch (20.3 cm) by 8 inch (20.3 cm), 12 inch (30.5 cm) by 12 inch (30.5 cm), for example (there are others, too). marble tiles can also be laid in different patterns. The total number of tiles you will need will depend on the size and pattern you want. For simplicity’s sake, let’s assume we are going to use 12 inch (30.5 cm) by 12 inch (30.5 cm) tiles and use a traditional grid design, where tiles are simply laid in pattern like graph paper.

Because the area of the room is 84 square feet, we will need about 84 12 inch (30.5 cm) x 12 inch (30.5 cm) (1 square foot) floor tiles (even accounting for the spaces in between tiles, known as “joints”). However, it is a good rule of thumb for beginners to purchase extra tiles to account for improperly cut or scored tiles, or for breakage. Buy an extra pack or two of wall tiles to be safe. When laying tile diagonally, a lot of material is wasted as cutoffs. A good rule of thumb here, even for experts, is to buy 15% more tile than the square footage would dictate.

Pick a color.You are only limited by your imagination (and the store’s stock). Choice of color typically is a matter of individual choice. The only additional step of planning and preparation with regard to color of the tile is with the grout selection. Grout is the “filler” that goes in the spaces between tiles, the joints. It can be grey, white, terra cotta, and so on. Typically, dark tiles with light grout really show the spaces in between tiles, and vice versa. The selection of grout color will really depend on how you would like the floor to look to the eye. There is no hard and fast rule.

Prep your space. Be sure that the entire surface is as smooth as possible. You will likely need to use floor leveling compound (available at your do it yourself hardware store) to float (create gradual transitions in the floor’s surface) out any divots, holes, or differences in subflooring heights. If you don’t “float” out these differences your cement tiles will crack. Your surface is now prepared for tiling.

Find your center point. You have already determined the size of your room, which is 84 square feet. Finding the center point is critical for laying the wood tiles. It will determine where you will lay your first kitchen tiles and the next ones. Measure one wall, for example the 12 foot (3.7 m) wall. At 6 feet (1.8 m), half the distance, mark a point with a pencil. Do the same on the other 12 foot (3.7 m) wall. Using your chalk line, anchor one end at the midpoint of one wall and stretch across to the midpoint of the other. “Snap” the chalk line by lifting it up slightly and letting it hit the ground; this will leave a straight line on the floor. Measure the 7 foot (2.1 m) walls and mark a point a 3 ½ feet on both sides.

Rehearse laying out ceramic tiles.When you have found your center point, you will notice you will have a “quadrant” design on the floor, or 4 equally sized areas. Starting at the center, “rehearse” your tile pattern by simply laying them on the floor without any adhesive or glue. Place the first tile at the corner nearest the center point. You are only going to work in one quadrant at a time. Begin placing tiles design in a straight line towards either wall, leaving a small space in between the tiles.

What Should We Do Before Laying Ceramic or Porcelain Tiles Floor?

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Laying a ceramic or porcelain tile floor can be considered a daunting task, but with adequate planning and preparation, this perception can be overcome. Laying one’s own polished tile is also much less expensive (and possibly more rewarding) than having it professionally installed. Cost can be minimized by careful planning and preparation.

Laying the foundation. An unpleasant question to be faced is “What is your floor made up of?” Plywood is good. But, if you have the typical 1/2″ to 5/8″ particle board on top of a deck made of 2x8s, you have some work to do. After removal of the base trim, the particle board should be pulled up (this is easiest if you first cut it into about 16″ squares)and replaced by plywood. You will need a Skil saw, and if you’re doing the kitchen, you’ll need a “toe-kick saw.” Replace the particle board up to where the wood tile will stop. While you have the particle board off, you can inspect the deck to make sure it is firmly attached to the floor tiles joists. Now you’re ready for leveling compound (if needed).

Lay the backer board. You will need to lay backboard (fiberglass or preferably cement tiles sheets that are usually 3 by 5 feet) as well, or the tiles design will pop off. Evaluate the wall tiles space to be tiled. A first phase of evaluation is to determine the size of the room to be tiled (or re-tiled). The number of kitchen tiles you will need will depend on the size of the tiles you wish to lay, as well as the small tiles pattern you will like on the floor. Using a tape measure or digital laser tape, measure the room from one wall to the opposite wall, and note the distance. Let’s say the measure of this distance is 12 feet (3.7 m). Measure the distance of the opposing walls to each other. Let’s say this distance is 7 feet (2.1 m). Multiplying these 2 distances (12 feet x 7 feet) will yield a total area of 84 square feet.

These measurements are based on squared dimensions. If the room is not perfectly “squared” (or in this case “rectangle”) because of an irregular floor plan (where there might be a small section off of one side, for example), do not factor this space into your measurement. While you will of course need to marble tile this space, factoring this space into your measurements will affect finding the “center” of the room, which will be discussed shortly. This area is important to note, since it will provide you with an estimate of the number of tiles you will need to purchase to cover the area to be tiled.

Using Heavy-duty Bathroom Tile Cleaners

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Mix water and bleach to clean marble tile. Combining bleach and water in a 1:3 ratio will yield an effective tile-cleaning solution. For instance, you might mix five tablespoons of bleach with 15 tablespoons of water. Fill a spray bottle with this solution and spray it on the bathroom tile you wish to clean. Rinse the tiles design clean with a cloth dampened with warm water. Bleach exudes noxious fumes. Open doors and windows before you get started to prevent the fumes from building up. Bleach can also irritate the skin, so wear thick rubber cleaning gloves when cleaning your bathroom tile with it.

Utilize ammonia. Combine ammonia and water in a 1:2 ratio. For instance, you could mix 10 tablespoons of water with five tablespoons of ammonia. Fill a spray bottle with the mixture and apply it to the bathroom tile you want to clean. Let it sit on the bathroom tile for about 60 minutes, then wipe it away with a clean, damp cloth. Ammonia, like bleach, exudes noxious fumes. Ventilate the bathroom you’re cleaning by opening doors and windows. Additionally, ammonia can irritate the skin, so wear thick rubber cleaning gloves when cleaning your bathroom tile with it.

Use a steam cleaner. A steam cleaner is a cleaning machine that uses steam to clean tiles floors and other flat surfaces. Generally, steam cleaners work the same way that vacuum cleaners do – simply turn the machine on and push it along the surface of your bathroom tiles. You’ll probably have to fill the steam cleaner with water before using it. Consult manufacturer directions before using your steam cleaner. You may be able to rent a steam cleaner at your local hardware or home goods store.

Make a baking soda paste. Combine baking soda and water in equal amounts. For instance, you might mix three tablespoons of water and three tablespoons of baking soda. Use a stiff-bristled brush to wipe the paste onto the grout. Work the paste into the grout, then wipe it away using a damp cloth or sponge. Create a salt and vinegar cleaning agent. Combine one cup (237 milliliters) of plain white vinegar, one cup (273 grams) of salt, two tablespoons of liquid dish soap, and one cup (237 milliliters) of hot water. Dab a sponge in this mixture and wipe your bathroom grout with it. Wait ten minutes, then wipe the grout with a clean, damp sponge.

Scrub the grout with bleach. Dip a stiff-bristled grout brush in bleach. Scrub the along the grout using the brush. After scrubbing, rinse the grout with a clean, damp cloth. Throw open the windows and door before you get started in order to ventilate the noxious bleach fumes. Use a cotton ball to clean corner cement tiles. Cleaning corner tiles with a regular sponge or brush can be difficult. Instead, soak a cotton ball in the tile cleaner of your choice and press it into the corner you wish to clean. Wait several minutes then remove the cotton ball. Wipe the corner with a damp rag to remove any excess grime. Alternately, you could use an old toothbrush to scrub the corner area clean.

Apply a coat of wax to ceramic tile. Once annually, apply a coat of car wax after cleaning bathroom tile. This will cause water to roll off and prevent the growth of mildew. Plus, it gives your bathroom tile a nice shine. While the exact technique for applying the car wax varies with the specific wax you’ve chosen to utilize, you can generally dab a clean cloth in the tub of wax, then rub it in a thin layer across the bathroom tiles after cleaning. After applying the wax to bathroom floor tile, buff it down to prevent the bathroom tile from being too slippery.

How to Clean Bathroom Tiles?

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Cleaning bathroom tile is a crucial part of home maintenance. For a basic cleaning, you can use materials you probably have lying around the house like lemon juice, baking soda, and all-purpose cleaning agents. For cleaning more deeply soiled bathroom tile, use a steam cleaner or a chemical cleaning agent like bleach or ammonia. Don’t forget to clean the grout between the tiles, as well.

Use vinegar to clean the ceramic tile. Mixing water and distilled white (or cleaning) vinegar in equal amounts produces an effective cleaning agent. For instance, you might mix five tablespoons of vinegar with five tablespoons of water. Dab a rag in the mixture and scrub the tile design until clean. Wipe dry, or allow to air dry.

Apply lemon juice to the wood tile. Lemon juice is slightly acidic, and therefore effective as a tile-cleaning agent. Fill a spray bottle with lemon juice and spray the juice onto the cement tile directly, then wipe it away with a damp sponge. Alternately, dampen a sponge with some lemon juice directly, then use it to wipe the tile down. Rinse the tile off with a sponge or cloth dipped in warm water. If you wish, you could sprinkle your bathroom tile with a thin coat of baking soda before spraying it with lemon juice or wiping it down with a lemon juice-soaked sponge.

Spray your marble tile with a cleaning product. There are a variety of all-purpose cleaning products available that can effectively clean your bathroom tile. While specific directions for use vary with the product you’ve decided to use, you can generally start by spraying the polished tile with a light coating of the spray you’ve decided to use, then wiping it down with a clean cloth. Powdered cleaning products might need to be mixed with water before they can be used.Before you begin, you might want to close the door and windows to your bathroom and run the hot water in your tub (with the drain stopper engaged) for several minutes. This will build up the steam in your bathroom and make cleaning easier.

Use baking soda cleaner. Mix ½ cup (90 grams) of baking soda, one teaspoon of liquid dish soap, and ¼ cup (63 milliliters) of hydrogen peroxide. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle. Spray the mixture on the bathroom tiles you wish to clean. Wait 10 minutes, then wipe the tiles off with a damp sponge or rag.

How to cutting installed tiles?

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Cover your counter and put on a mask and safety goggles. Cover your counter with plastic sheeting to protect it and make cleaning up easier. Put on a pair of safety goggles to protect your eyes against dust. Finally, put on a mask suitable for working with fine particles. Most dust masks and respirator masks come with a description of what they are used for, such as sanding dust, aerosol, etc. Choose the one for dust.

Make the marble tiles where you wish to cut it. A pencil may work just fine on a slate or ceramic tiles, but if the wood tiles is glazed, you should switch to a marker. Try to be as precise as possible for this step.

Cut along the top, bottom, and side edges. If you need to get inside the wall tiles, then you should cut through the dry wall as well. A dremel rotary cutter with a diamond tiles design blade will work for most polished tiles.

Use an oscillating cutter to cut through tight corners. While a dremel rotary tool will work for most lines, it won’t work on tight corners. For that, you should switch to an oscillating cutter instead. You may have to experiment before you find the right one for your type of tiles. A multi-surface blade seems to work better than cement tiles blade, however.

Pull the small tiles away. Wedge a thin knife or spatula behind the tiles and pop it out. If you had to cut through the wall, try not to lose anything inside the wall. Your hole is now complete and ready to finish.