How to cutting tiles sheets of backsplash tiles?

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Measure the area of your backsplash tiles. Use a measuring tape to measure the dimensions of your marble tiles backsplash area. Write these measurements down. Don’t worry about cabinet corners that cut into the tiles design backsplash area just yet.

Transfer your measurements to your wood marble tiles sheet. The easiest way to do this is with long strips of painter’s tape of masking tape. You can also draw on the back of the polished tiles sheet with a marker. Be sure to mark any outlet and light switch holes. Place the sheet against the wall and mark them, if needed.

Put on some eye and respiratory protection, if needed. A pair of safety goggles is highly recommended because it will protect your eyes against flying pieces of tiles. A good respiratory mask is only needed if you will be cutting the wood tiles with a wet saw or grinder. If you will be using common marble tiles nippers, you won’t need a mask. Masks are graded based on the size of particle they filter. Purchase one that will filter dust particles.

Cut the cement tiles sheet down to size with a box cutter. Flip the wall tiles sheet over so that you can see the back, then cut through the mesh with a box cutter or utility knife. If the tape runs across a row of ceramic tiles, cut through the mesh along the inside edge of the tape. This will make your tile sheet a little smaller than necessary, but that’s okay. If your tiles are staggered like bricks or a honeycomb, you will need to cut around the tiles. Don’t cut straight through them. Be sure to cut through the outlet and light switch holes.

Install the small tiles sheet using your preferred tile cement. Spread the kitchen tiles cement across the backsplash area, then press the tiles sheet into place. If you cut your tiles sheet smaller, arrange it so that the gaps caused by the size difference are along the top edge, where the cabinets are. If there is a gap along 1 of the side edges, position the sheet so that the gap is in a corner.

Measure the excess tiles against the gaps. You should still have some tiles sheeting left over from when you cut the tiles sheet down. Take these excess tiles, and measure them against the gaps. If you need to, mark the back of each time with a pencil or marker to figure out how much you need to trim. If your tiles are staggered like bricks, the gaps won’t be consistent. You will need to cut some tiles larger, and other tiles smaller.

Cut the tiles while they are still on the mesh. Using your sketched line as a guide, cut the tiles down to the right size. A wet saw should do the trick for most tiles. If the tiles are smaller than 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm), a pair of tiles nippers may work better. The tiles should fall away from their mesh backing as you cut them. If they don’t. cut them away with your box cutter. If the tiles are more than 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm) across, you may be able to cut them with a score-and-snap tile cutter.

How to cutting standard tiles as backsplash?

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Lay out your marble tiles on the counter, table, or floor. Make sure that your tiles design lay out matches the dimensions of your wall. For example, if your backsplash is 6 to 2 feet (1.83 to 0.61 m), then your ceramic tiles lay out should also be 6 to 2 feet (1.83 to 0.61 m). Include the tiles price that will get in the way of cabinets, corners, and edges. You will cut these down to size later. Also, remember to include the grouting gaps between the polished tiles; use a spacer if you have to.

This step is known as “dry-fitting.” It will help you figure out whether or not you need to cut any wood tiles. Leave a 1⁄8-in (0.32-cm) gap around the backsplash, where it connects to the cabinets, counter, and adjacent wall. If you are working with a large sheet of tiles, click here to continue.

Mark the small tiles that will get in the way of cabinets and corners. Check the dimensions of your wall against your laid-out tiles. Use a marker to make a mark across the cement tiles where they will bump against a cabinet or corner. Mark the tiles that will be along the top edge of your backsplash, next to a wall, or under a cabinet. They will be more disguised that way.

Put on some eye and respiratory protection. A pair of safety goggles will protect your eyes against any flying pieces of tiles. A good respiratory mask will prevent you from breathing in any sanding dust. Most masks are graded based on the type of particle they can filter. Choose one that can filter dust particles.

Use a score-and-snap tiles cutter on large tiles. Use the cutting wheel to make a single, deep score in the tiles. Snap the tiles along the scored line. If the tiles has a mesh backing, make sure that the mesh side is facing up. Do not use grinders on tiles made from slate. You can use them on ceramic tiles design, however.

Use tile nippers for small tiles. Tiles that are smaller than 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm) may be difficult to cut on a score-and-snap tiles cutter. Not only could you hurt yourself, but you could break the tiles. Instead, use a pair of tiles nippers to pinch the tiles where you need to break it. You can use tiles nippers on larger tiles to “cut” curves. Do not use tiles nippers made from slate. You can use them on ceramic tiles, however.

Use a wet saw to notch tiles, if needed. Sometimes, the corner of a cabinet or outlet cover will extend into your backsplash tiles. Measure the corner, then trace it onto the tiles with a pencil or marker. Place the tiles onto the sliding table of the wet saw. Gently guide the tiles into the saw to make the first cut. Pull the tiles back, then create the second cut. Use a tiles nipper to break off the piece between the 2 cuts. You can also use a wet saw to make basic cuts on most tiles.

What should we do when we cut tiles backsplash?

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Installing a marble tile backsplash yourself is a great way to save money while getting the exact look you want. There is more to installing backsplashes than just arranging floor tiles, however; you have to measure and cut the tiles design so that they fit properly. If the backsplash tile is already installed, you may still be able to cut holes into it for new fixtures, as long as you use the proper tools.

Turn off the power to your kitchen. Find the electrical panel in your home. It is typically a small, metal panel painted to match your wall. Open the panel, then find the switch for the bathroom tiles or kitchen electrical outlets (wherever you are doing the backsplash kitchen tiles). Flick the switch to the off position. Remember to flick the switches back on after you have finished installing the cement tiles. If your wood tiles are already on the wall and you wish to cut a hole in them, complete this step, then click here to learn how.

Remove any light switch and outlet covers. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws from each cover. Place the covers into separate zippered bags along with their matching screws. Work 1 cover at a time so that you don’t mix or lose the pieces. You will need to reinstall the light switch and outlet covers after you have finished installing the wall tiles.

Clear and cover the counters. Move anything on the counter that might get in the way, such as coffee makers and toasters. Cover the counter with a plastic sheet to protect it. If you are installing the tiles later, it would be a good idea to mask off counters and cabinets. This will save you a step. To mask off the counters and cabinets: lay strips of painter’s tape along any counter or cabinet edges that touch the backsplash wall.

Mark the center of the wall, then draw a plumb line through it. Find the center of the backsplash wall, and make a like mark with a pencil. Place a 2-ft (61-cm) level against the mark and orient it vertically. Use the edge of the level as a ruler to draw a vertical line spanning the height of your backsplash tiles. The plumb line will help you lay out your tiles evenly once you go to mount them on the wall. Make sure that the level is straight. The bubble inside the glass tube should be centered between the lines.

How to spreading adhesive or mastic, and laying tiles?

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Pick up all tiles design and set aside. On your prepared surface, begin spreading the adhesive with the notched trowel. You will start from the center point, work only in one quadrant, and apply small sections at a time, following the pattern during the rehearsal. Spread adhesive evenly, then using the notched edge, make a raking motion. You should have grooves neither too deep nor too shallow. Set the first marble tiles in place at the corner lines made by the center point. Do not twist kitchen tiles; simply press the tiles down firmly yet softly.

Set tiles price spacer and then continue with additional common marble tiles. (Remember to set wood tiles spacers after each wood marble tiles). Use your level to determine degree of level of the tiles as you go along. (Not all surfaces are perfectly level). If slightly uneven, either manipulate the tiles or add a little more adhesive to the floor until level. Usually, after a quadrant is complete, remove the tiles spacers so they do not set into the adhesive. Follow this process for the remainder of the floor, making sure to check the level as you go along.

Wait. After the polished tiles have been set, it is usually advised to wait at least one day (or overnight) to allow the adhesive to dry, or cure. After the adhesive has cured, you will grout the joints. Continue working in quadrants as before. Using a rubber float, apply only enough grout as you can effectively work with. In a diagonal direction, press grout into the joints to an even level with the bathroom tiles.

Skim excess from cement tiles with the rubber float. You will notice a mild “grout haze” on your tiles. Wait a few minutes for the grout to stiffen up in the joints. Use a damp sponge work across the joints, (working along joints can drag out too much grout) to remove grout haze from tiles and finish the joints, make sure not to press too hard on joints. As you work, check each joint is full and smoothly finished. Continue this process with other joints in remaining quadrants.

Consider caulk. For joints at the wall and flooring tiles interface it is best to use caulk instead of grout. There are benefits to using caulk along wall joints. All ceramic tiles may expand or contract depending on temperature fluctuations. The wall joints are also known as expansion joints. Using caulk here will buffer expansion and contraction a bit.

Let the floor tiles cure. Wait for the entire floor tiles design to cure for about a week before giving it a good mopping to remove remaining grout haze. You may also choose to seal the grout with a sealer to lock out dirt and or grease.

How to lay a ceramic or porcelain floor tiles?

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Find your center point. You have already determined the size of your room, which is 84 square feet. Finding the center point is critical for laying the floor tiles. It will determine where you will lay your first marble tiles and the next ones. Measure one wall, for example the 12 foot (3.7 m) wall. At 6 feet (1.8 m), half the distance, mark a point with a pencil.

Do the same on the other 12 foot (3.7 m) wall. Using your chalk line, anchor one end at the midpoint of one wall and stretch across to the midpoint of the other. “Snap” the chalk line by lifting it up slightly and letting it hit the ground; this will leave a straight line on the floor. Measure the 7 foot (2.1 m) walls and mark a point a 3 ½ feet on both sides.

Rehearse laying out kitchen tiles. When you have found your center point, you will notice you will have a “quadrant” design on the flooing tiles, or 4 equally sized areas. Starting at the center, “rehearse” your tiles design pattern by simply laying them on the marble floor tiles without any adhesive or glue. Place the first small tiles at the corner nearest the center point. You are only going to work in one quadrant at a time. Begin placing wood tiles in a straight line towards either wall, leaving a small space in between the tiles.

Repeat the same process for the 3 ½ foot line. You will use 3 full cement tiles and 1 tiles cut to 4 inches (10.2 cm), since the size of the 3 joints plus the 1 wall joint equals 2 inches (5.1 cm) and your original tiles size was 6 inches (15.2 cm) (6 inches original tile- 2 inches total joint= 4 inch tiles). Note that this does not follow the realignment strategy mentioned above. Because this room is “squared,” the true center is best left where it actually is. Simply make uniform cuts as they correspond to each side (in this case, you will have 9 inch (22.9 cm) tiles as the wall tiles on the “short” 7 foot (2.1 m) walls and 4 inch (10.2 cm) tiles on the long 12 foot (3.7 m) walls.

Pre-drill some tiles to fit over items such as radiator pipes, bath pipes, and so on. To achieve this you may have to drain down radiator systems, remove the rad from the wall and take the taps off the pipework. Very time consuming but worth the effort if a minimal look is desired. Your floor will look better if you can drill a hole in the tiles and lay the tiles over the pipe.

Use a diamond hole saw to bore into the tiles and drill a perfect hole. If you do not have a hole saw you can use a wet-tile saw to cut a square hole in the center of the tiles. Draw a square on the back of the tiles in the desired location of the hole. Carefully place the backside of the tiles against the wet-saw blade at the midpoint of one of the sides of the square. Gently push the tiles against the the blade until the edge of the square is cut. Repeat for the other sides of the square hole.

What should you do before lay a ceramic or porcelain tiles?

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Laying a ceramic or porcelain tile floor can be considered a daunting task, but with adequate planning and preparation, this perception can be overcome. Laying one’s own marble tile is also much less expensive (and possibly more rewarding) than having it professionally installed. Cost can be minimized by careful planning and preparation.

Laying the foundation. An unpleasant question to be faced is “What is your floor made up of?” Plywood is good. But, if you have the typical 1/2″ to 5/8″ particle board on top of a deck made of 2x8s, you have some work to do. After removal of the base trim, the particle board should be pulled up (this is easiest if you first cut it into about 16″ squares)and replaced by plywood. You will need a Skil saw, and if you’re doing the kitchen, you’ll need a “toe-kick saw.” Replace the particle board up to where the tiles design will stop. While you have the particle board off, you can inspect the deck to make sure it is firmly attached to the floor joists. Now you’re ready for leveling compound (if needed).

Lay the backer board. You will need to lay backerboard (fiberglass or preferably cement sheets that are usually 3 by 5 feet) as well, or the wood tiles will pop off. Evaluate the space to be tiled. A first phase of evaluation is to determine the size of the room to be tiled (or re-tiled). The number of cement tiles you will need will depend on the size of the tiles price you wish to lay, as well as the bathroom tile pattern you will like on the floor tiles. Using a tape measure or digital laser tape, measure the room from one wall to the opposite wall, and note the distance. Let’s say the measure of this distance is 12 feet (3.7 m). Measure the distance of the opposing walls to each other. Let’s say this distance is 7 feet (2.1 m). Multiplying these 2 distances (12 feet x 7 feet) will yield a total area of 84 square feet.

These measurements are based on squared dimensions. If the room is not perfectly “squared” (or in this case “rectangle”) because of an irregular marble floor tiles plan (where there might be a small section off of one side, for example), do not factor this space into your measurement. While you will of course need to tiles this space, factoring this space into your measurements will affect finding the “center” of the room, which will be discussed shortly. This area is important to note, since it will provide you with an estimate of the number of tiles you will need to purchase to cover the area to be tiled.

Decide on your tiles size and pattern. Tiles come in different sizes: 4 inch (10.2 cm) by 4 inch (10.2 cm), 8 inch (20.3 cm) by 8 inch (20.3 cm), 12 inch (30.5 cm) by 12 inch (30.5 cm), for example (there are others, too). Tiles can also be laid in different patterns. The total number of wood marble tiles you will need will depend on the size and pattern you want. For simplicity’s sake, let’s assume we are going to use 12 inch (30.5 cm) by 12 inch (30.5 cm) tiles and use a traditional grid design, where tiles are simply laid in pattern like graph paper.

Because the area of the room is 84 square feet, we will need about 84 12 inch (30.5 cm) x 12 inch (30.5 cm) (1 square foot) tiles (even accounting for the spaces in between tiles, known as “joints”). However, it is a good rule of thumb for beginners to purchase extra tiles to account for improperly cut or scored tiles, or for breakage. Buy an extra pack or two of tiles to be safe. When laying tiles diagonally, a lot of material is wasted as cutoffs. A good rule of thumb here, even for experts, is to buy 15% more tiles than the square footage would dictate.

How to install ceramic wall tiles?

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Install a batten to keep your first row straight. With everything else ready to go, you’ll want to install a batten to help keep your cement tiles rows straight. This is a piece of scrap wood, such as a piece of 1×4 lumber, that you use as a long straight-edge, placing the first row of rustic tiles right against the batten. Align the top edge of the wood so that it follows exactly along the mid-level line that you marked, then screw it into the studs. Once the wood tiles have been placed, simply unscrew and remove the batten. Double check that everything is level before installing the tiles on the batten. You’ll also want to check it all the way across, since there may be dips in the wood you use for your batten.

Mix the mortar. You’ll need thin set mortar to lay your ceramic tiles. While you should always go by the manufacturer’s instructions, a general rule of thumb is to start with the powder in a bucket and just add water slowly and mix until the consistency of the mortar becomes like peanut butter. You should also allow it to “slake” after you first mix it up. This means you allow it to rest for 10-15 minutes and then stir it up again. Now it is ready to use.

Spread the mortar. Working in a roughly 2×3’area, use a tiling trowel to apply the mortar. Hold the notched trowel at a shallow angle against the wall, so that the notches on one of its long sides dig grooves into the mortar. Use long, sweeping motions to apply the mortar. The direction of the grooves doesn’t matter but the lines should all be roughly parallel.

Your trowel size will depend on the size and type of marble tiles you’re using. For the average small wall tiles which are currently popular, you will want to use a 1×4″ square notch trowel. Test a tile design to make sure the mortar is mixed and spread correctly. Mortar a small spot and then place a wood wall tiles. Pull the tiles price up and look at the pattern that is create on the back. If you see clear lines, then the mortar is too dry. If you see mounds then the mortar is too wet.

Place your tiles on the wall. With the mortar ready to go, you can start placing your tiles. Just twist them into place, sticking to the small area that you prepared for yourself. Place your spacers between each tile as you go. These are usually cross shaped and placed at the corners but if you have unusual tiles you may have to improvise, such as by placing only one arm between tiles and letting the rest of the spacer stick out. If the mortar rises up between the tiles as you place them, the bed is too thick and you will need a smaller trowel. Check the tiles for level as you go. This is when a laser level can really come in handy.

What should you do before install ceramic wall tiles?

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Ceramic tile is a versatile and durable finishing material. Tiles can be installed as a floor or wall covering nearly anywhere, but they are especially useful in bathrooms and kitchens. Tiles design wall can resist moisture and handle scrubbing much more readily than drywall or other materials, and so they are the ideal choice for humid bathrooms and kitchens where they will be exposed to cooking splatters. Learning how to install ceramic wall tile is a task well within the reach of an average homeowner. The process requires only a few tools and materials.

Make sure your wall is ready to go. Once you’ve removed the current wall dressings and wall items, like light switch covers, you’ll want to check the base layer that you will be building on to make sure that it is structurally sound. This is important, since a rotting or weak wall tiles can cause your tiling job to warp, crack, or even break and fall down. Look for signs of mold or damage to the tiling surface.

Cracks are often a sign that a wall may be weak and need to be replaced. Try pressing on the wall, especially at the studs. If it gives way or feels soft, it may require work. If you are going to be tiling a large area, remember to use tiling board as a backer and not just put the wood tiles directly onto drywall. Tiling board is installed just like drywall (nailed to the studs) but is made of more water resistant materials which will keep it from warping and cracking your tile work.

Use a level and tape to measure for your tile locations. Now, using a level and measuring tape, measure and mark for the middle lines in the area you will be tiling. You want to find both the vertical and horizontal middle, since you will use these to keep your Ceramic straight and divide the area into sections for tiling. Never assume a fixture in the room like the tub or vanity (or even the ceiling) is perfectly level. They rarely are. It is very important to rely on the level.

Mark the locations on the wall using a chalk line. Using a chalk snap line, mark the mid-line and vertical lines which you just measured. If you’ve never used a chalk snap line before, don’t worry: it’s easy. Simply place a nail at one end of the space you marked, attach the string, pull it taut and snap it down. This will leave a straight line on your wall. You’ll still want to check it for level but it’s much more accurate than drawing a line. You can use just regular string and manually chalk it to make a chalk line but using a chalk box, which are easily bought for about $5, will generally be a lot less work.

Dry fit and then cut cement tiles to size using a diamond wet saw. Dry fit your rustic tiles to be sure that they will look the way you want them to look. Once you’re comfortable with how it looks, figure out how the tiles price will meet up with the corners and edges of your wall. You will probably need only a part of a tile when it comes to some of these areas, so it will be necessary to cut the tiles to size. Measure how much space you need for each row with the spaces and cut tiles to size using a diamond tipped wet saw.

So, for example, let’s say your wall to tile is five feet long. You’re putting up subway tile and the tiles are 6″, with spaces of 1/4″ between each of them. You’ll need 9.6 tiles for each row to cover that space, meaning nine full tiles and one cut to 3.6″. If you don’t own a diamond tipped wet saw, you can usually rent one from your local major hardware store. You can also use a tile cutter, but this is more likely to end in broken tiles so only take this option if using cheaper tiles.

Dry fitting is especially important if your tiles make up a pattern, since you will need to be very comfortable creating that pattern. You don’t want to make a mistake or have to spend a lot of time thinking about it once the mortar is up on your wall. You can test your dry fit pattern by making a layout stick, which can be made from any straight and level piece of spare wood. Lay the tiles on a floor and mark the layout stick with a pencil at the joints between tiles. Use the layout stick to see how the tiles fit on the wall.

How to hanging wall tiles?

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Apply a 1⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) layer of adhesive to the wall. Start applying the adhesive in a bottom corner, about 1 tile length away from the bottom and side of the wall, leaving space for the edge tiles design. Scoop out a golf ball sized amount of adhesive onto a notched trowel, and spread enough adhesive in a thin layer over the wall to hang 2-3 wall tiles at a time.
You may need to move the trowel over the adhesive a few times to ensure that it’s thin and level.

Pre-mixed adhesive tends to be less expensive and work well for marble wall tiles. If you purchased a powder adhesive, mix it according to the directions until it’s the consistency of peanut butter. Use the trowel to add grooves to the adhesive. Hold the trowel at about a 45-degree angle from the wall. Move the trowel horizontally across the wall to make the grooves, applying consistent pressure as you spread. This will create the necessary ridges in the adhesive to allow for the wood wall tiles to stick to the wall.

Check the packaging of the adhesive to make sure you’re using the right sized notches for the marble tiles to stick to the adhesive. Most trowels will have 2 sets of notches that are different sizes. Hang the first tiles and continue the row with more adhesive and tiles. Carefully line up your first tiles, and press it into the adhesive, wiggling it slightly to create suction before positioning it in its spot.

Then, continue adding ceramic tiles in rows or columns following your pattern. Once you’ve covered most of the adhesive on the wall, apply more and continue hanging wall tiles price in your pattern. Remember to work in small sections at a time, only applying the adhesive where you’re tiling wall tiles. You may need to wipe off adhesive that oozes out from between the tiles with a damp cloth.

Add spacers in between each of the tiles to ensure even grout lines. As you’re hanging up the wall tiles design, position plastic spacers in between them to make room for the grout later. The spacers fit between the wood marble tiles and stick into the adhesive. Some floor tiles have built-in spacers. Be sure to check yours before you buy spacers.

Cut your tiles with a wet saw or nippers. Gather all of the tiles that you marked with the wax crayon during your dry-lay, and measure the length again to ensure that it’s in the right position. Put on a pair of safety goggles and carefully align the tiles with the blade of the wet saw or the shears of the nippers. Then, move the tiles through the blade or close the nippers to cut the tiles. For large tiles, you may need to rent a tile-cutting saw, also called a wet saw, from a local home and garden store. You can cut tiles smaller than 2 inches (5.1 cm) with nippers, which are shears that are used for cutting small pieces of glass.

Hang edge tiles by applying adhesive to the backs of the tiles. Take a tiles for the edge of the wall and apply the adhesive to the back, as if you were putting butter on a piece of toast. Then, position the tiles where it needs to go, and add the spacers. If the tiles has been cut, make sure you’re placing it in the right spot. If your tiles fit perfectly in the space and you don’t need to cut any of them, you should still use this method to do the outer columns and the top and bottom rows. This prevents the adhesive from getting on other surfaces or the pre-layed tiles.

Measuring and cleaning the walls before tiling a wall tiles

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Measure the width and height of the wall to find out how many marble tiles you need. Use measuring tape to take precise measurements of the area of wall you’ll be tiling wall tiles. To find the area of your wall, multiple the length times the width, and then divide this number by the area of 1 box of the tiles design you are using in order to determine how many to purchase. When you’re purchasing the tiles price, buy an extra package of tiles in case some get damaged while you’re hanging them.

For instance, if the wall is 10 by 12 feet (3.0 by 3.7 m), it is 120 square feet (11 m2). Then, if each box of tiles has 10 square feet (0.93 m2) of tile, divide 120 by 10 to find that you need 12 boxes to cover the wall exactly. Then, you should add an additional box to account for potentially damaged cement tiles. Since the grout doesn’t take up much space between the tiles, and your tiles likely won’t fit in the space perfectly, you don’t need to account for it in your calculations.

Use a chisel and hammer if you need to remove existing rustic tiles. Put on a pair of safety goggles before you start removing the tiles. Then, place the chisel at a 45 degree angle between the tiles and hit the end of the chisel with the hammer to separate the wood marble tiles from the wall. Use the chisel to scrape between the tiles and the wall until they’ve all been removed.

It’s easiest to start removing wood tiles from a corner or from the top of the wall so you can place the chisel directly on the grout, which tends to be weaker than the tiles. Be careful while you’re removing the tiles. It’s easy to accidentally make a crack or hole in the drywall if you’re not holding the chisel at a 45 degree angle while you work.

Fill any cracks or holes in the wall with spackle. Once you’ve exposed the drywall underneath any existing tiles, you’ll be able to see any problem areas. Use a scraper to apply the spackle and let it dry according to the package directions, which is normally about 4-6 hours. For cracks and holes larger than 4–5 inches (10–13 cm), you may need to patch them with drywall. If you’ve never hung drywall, ask a professional for a quote to see how much it will cost to fix that area.

If the wall doesn’t have marble wall tiles, it is probably painted or wallpapered. You can use the same method for repairing the drywall without removing the paint or wallpaper. Sand the walls with coarse sandpaper to smooth any bumps. If you had to remove pre-existing wall tiles design or fix holes and cracks, there are likely bumps in the wall.

You can tiles over it, but it needs to be smooth to prevent your new tiles from laying crooked. Look for 100-grit or 80-grit sandpaper, and wear a mask to protect your lungs from the particles in the air. If you’re sanding a large area, it might be easier to use an electric sander.