Deciding on the Select Wood Flooring

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Consider staining the wood if you want it to be more eye-catching. This is a great choice if you’re not going for a natural look or you’re not content with the color of your preferred wood species. Wood stain comes in a wide range of shades. Depending on what shade you use, you can either pronounce the original wood color or create a completely new look.


In modern interiors, dark charcoal and similar shades are used to make wood floorings look striking. Choose oil-based finish if you want to cut down on expenses. This type of finish is among the most commonly used. Apart from being affordable, oil-based finish is quite durable as well. It gives an amber glow, no matter the color of the wood itself.


Opt for moisture-cured finish if you want a high level of moisture resistance. Apart from being more resistant to moisture than any other type, this finish is highly durable in general. It comes in a variety of shades, so you can easily adjust it to the wood species of your choice. The shades range from completely clear to amber.


Go with natural oil finish if you want an extra durable top coat. Unlike most other types of finishes, which stay on the surface, natural oil finish penetrates into the wood. By doing that, it creates a protective interior layer. That’s also why it’s among the most durable finishes out there. In general, oil finishes are easily scratched. However, those scratches are a lot less noticeable than the scratches you make on other types of finishes.


Choose sheen level. Unlike the type of finish, sheen only affects the appearance of wood. You can choose from matte, satin, semi-gloss, and gloss finishes. While matte reflects the least light, gloss is the shiniest.

The Knowledge of Tiling Tiles

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Scratch the stucco 5 to 10 minutes after applying it. Waiting allows the scratch coat to solidify it a little bit so you don’t accidentally end up scratching the wall underneath it. When you’re ready, get a tool called a scarifier, which looks like a handheld rake or comb. Rake it horizontally across the entire wall to scratch lines into the stucco. A scratch coat is a rough initial layer. You create scratch marks on it to create a base for the final layer to bond to, leading to a stronger wall covering.


The scratch marks don’t have to be perfectly horizontal or even. Simply drag the tool across the wall a few times. As long as you have marks along the entire wall, you can create a much stronger finish. If you don’t have a scarifier available, use the edge of a trowel or another tool. Make the scratches about 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) deep.


Dry the stucco for 2 days, misting it twice a day. Leave the stucco exposed to harden in open air. Keep it wet by spraying it with water from a misting bottle each morning and afternoon. If you let the stucco dry out before it finishes curing, it may weaken and crack. Stucco is similar to concrete and needs to be treated the same way. Always let the first layer cure before applying a second one.


Apply a second layer of stucco and let it dry. Finish the wall cover by repeating the process with another 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) layer. This time, instead of scratching the stucco, use the trowel to create whatever finished design you want. When you’re finished, mist it and dry it for at least 2 days.


For example, some designers sweep a trowel across the stucco to give it an uneven, ridged design. You could also use a scarifier to give it a scratched design or leave it flat if you wish. If you wish to use concrete pigment, don’t forget to mix it in with the fresh batch of stucco. Otherwise, you can apply wall paint to the stucco after it finishes drying.

The Knowledge of Cover Exterior Cinder Block Walls

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Place vertical boards along the wall to connect the strips. Cut more furring strips to the size you used previously. Line these boards up with the edges of the wall, chalking straight guidelines as needed for the installation. Drill and screw these boards to the cinder blocks. Apply more vertical strips about every 16 in (41 cm) to create a framework for the vinyl siding.


Remember to install vertical boards around each door and window to complete the furring “frame.” These components need to be framed in order to waterproof them properly. Measure and cut the vinyl to fit evenly over the wall. Run a tape measure from the top edge of the upper furring strip to the bottom of the lower one. Add an extra 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) to your measurement to account for overlap.


Then, cut the vinyl panels evenly to fit over the height of the wall. Use a circular saw with a plywood-cutting blade to trim the panels. Remember to wear goggles, earmuffs, and a dust mask to keep yourself safe while operating a saw. Attach a vinyl starter strip below the bottom furring. The starter strip is a slotted piece of trim used to hold the vinyl to the furring board.


Position it so it extends about 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) below the lower furring. Place 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) galvanized siding nails in the slots pre-cut in the starter to pin it in place. Look for vinyl siding kits online or at your local home improvement store to get all the components you need. Alternatively, buy the parts separately to suit your wall.


If you’re working around doors and windows, get more vinyl starters. You need corner pieces and J-channel pieces to connect them together. They attach to the furring boards the same way the starter does. Lay vinyl panels from the bottom of the wall to the top. Position the first row of vinyl panels over the starter strip on the bottom of the wall.

How to Install New Baseboard?

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Baseboard is the trim that fits along the floor and makes a transition from floor to wall. It can help hold flooring in place. You may want to install baseboard in a new room or remodeled room or replace damaged baseboard. This is a simple job that most people with a few tools can handle.


Remove the old baseboard if it exists. Pry off the old baseboard carefully with a small pry bar so you can use it to mark and cut the new molding. Protect the wall as you pry off old molding so it won’t be damaged. Use a piece of scrap wood between the wall and the pry bar. You may be able to cut off damaged areas of molding and re-use part of the old molding.


Remove any nails that pull through the old molding and are left in the wall. Measure, mark and cut the new molding. Using the old molding to make a template for corner cuts and cuts around outlets or other obstructions is ideal. Make a template out of stiff paper or cardboard for difficult cuts if there is no old molding.


Molding pieces should end at a wall stud. Try to cut pieces so that you join two pieces at a wall stud. Allow for the depth of both pieces of the molding when butting two pieces together at a corner. If you have a miter box you can miter the corners (cut at an angle) so they fit together neatly. Make sure cuts where molding will meet another piece in a line are perfectly straight to avoid gaps between pieces.


Fit the molding pieces in place and adjust if needed. Make sure any flooring and wall coverings such as wallpaper or paneling are in place and any painting is done before installing the molding. Work with one wall at a time. Start at one corner and fit all the pieces in place.

Choosing the Right Type of Flooring

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Choose solid flooring if you want to be able to refinish it in the future. Solid flooring comes in planks made solely of wood. It’s noticeably quieter and can be refinished over and over again since it gives plenty of solid wood to work with. However, solid flooring is also prone to expansion and contraction, which can change its appearance over time.


Opt for engineered flooring if you want the wood to be more stable. Engineered flooring consists of multiple layers, only the top one being solid wood. The way engineered flooring is made prevents it from expanding and contracting, which means it always stays the same. However, it usually comes with a pretty thin layer of solid wood, which doesn’t leave enough room for future refinishing.


If price is a big concern, engineered flooring is a better option. Not only is it cheaper, it can also be installed directly onto concrete floors, which can significantly reduce your costs. Get prefinished flooring if you prefer not taking risks. With prefinished flooring, the top coat is added before the planks leave the factory, so you know exactly what you’re getting.


Also, you don’t need to rely on your contractor’s skills when it comes to finishing touches. Once the flooring is delivered, it only needs to be installed. Go with unfinished flooring if you want a higher level of control. Unfinished flooring gets delivered without the top coat and has to be finished on site.


This is riskier, since you don’t see the end product before it’s already installed. However, choosing for the flooring to be finished on site allows you to make adjustments during the entire installation process. When it comes to price, unfinished flooring is less affordable, since you need to pay a contractor to first install your flooring and then do the finishing touches as well.

How Selecting the Right Wood?

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Select a type of wood. Different species are of different levels of durability. In general, the harder the wood, the more durable the flooring is. That’s why you should look for harder species if you want your floors to last for years to come. It’s not uncommon for wood to change color over time. Although the changes are normally subtle, it’s worth keeping this in mind when deciding on a color for your flooring.


Choose plank size. There are plenty of available sizes, but it’s important to keep in mind both cost and design. Generally, the wider the planks are, the more expensive the flooring is. However, wider planks tend to make a room appear more luxurious. Take into account that seams get more pronounced with time.


If you think this could hurt the appearance of your home, consider investing in wider planks. Since they’re bigger, they automatically have fewer seams. Select a grain pattern. Plain-sawn wood is ideal for traditional interiors, with lines joining to form peaks known as cathedrals.


Rift-swan wood has straight lines that are fairly subtle, which makes it capable of fitting into any decor. Quarter-swan wood also has straight lines, but they’re much more eye-catching, which makes for excellent flooring choice for modern and rustic styles. Distressing is a finishing technique you can use to make the pattern on your flooring more prominent.


Work from one side of the other, pinning the panels with 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) galvanized siding nails placed in their pre-cut nailing slots. When you get to the end of the wall, start with the next row, allowing the new panels to overlap the first ones by 1 in (2.5 cm). Since distressing gives the wood a worn look, it’s normally used in vintage and rustic interiors.

How Covering the Wall with Vinyl Siding?

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Measure the width of the wall and cut furring strips to match it. Use a measuring tape to figure out what length the strips need to be. Furring strips are little more than wood boards treated to be water-resistant. They are approximately 2 × 4 × 8 in (5.1 × 10.2 × 20.3 cm) in size. Cut 2 separate boards to the same width as the wall.


Look for furring strips at your local home improvement store. Some places sell pre-cut strips, but you can also ask to have treated pine boards cut to the size you need. Position the boards to the top and bottom edges of the wall. The first strip is easy to position since you situate it on the side of the wall at the very top.


For the lower board, measure up about 6 in (15 cm) from the bottom edge of the wall. Make sure the boards go from one end of the wall to the other, adding additional boards as needed if yours are too short. Consider marking the installation points with chalk first. Check the line with a level to ensure the furring boards will form a straight row when you install them.


If your wall has windows, doors, and other obstructions, keep the furring strips away from them. Install separate furring strips around each of these components, basically framing them. For soffits and fascia, you can get separate pieces of vinyl designed to fit these wood components. Slide the vinyl into a top strip or J-channel and nail them as needed to hold them in place.


Attach the boards with screws placed every 16 in (41 cm). Measure along each of the furring strips, marking the attachment points with a pencil as needed. Use a masonry drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create holes all the way through the wood. Then, fit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) concrete screws into the holes to hold the boards in place.

How to Cover Exterior Cinder Block Walls?

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Cinder block walls are strong and inexpensive, but they aren’t always pleasant to look at. Fortunately, you have many options for improving a cinder block wall. Concrete is an inexpensive way to create a strong cover. Stucco is similar to concrete but more decorative. Vinyl panels and stone veneers are alternative decorations that match with many homes. Use different material to give any cinder block wall a unique aesthetic appeal.


Dampen an area approximately 3 ft × 6 ft (0.91 m × 1.83 m) in size, or as much as you can cover with cement in about 10 minutes of work. The wall needs to be well-soaked in order for the cement to bond to it. Always work on one part of the wall at a time to avoid any problems with the cement coating.


Spread a 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) layer of cement on the wall. The cement needs to be applied in sections to prevent it from drying out before you’re finished working. To prevent issues, start out by covering the small portion you dampened. Scoop some cement out of your mix with a trowel, hawk, or another tool, then slather it over the area with a trowel. Start at the top of the wall, spreading the concrete from left to right.


A hawk is a flat tool used to pick up and hold lots of concrete, mortar, or other material. Normally you would have to dip into the mix many times. Using a hawk reduces this, making the application process much easier. For a faster way to cover wall sections, take advantage of a concrete sprayer.


Load the concrete into the sprayer, then hold it close to close to the wall to avoid spraying the areas you aren’t ready to work on yet. If you need to check the cement’s thickness, try using a tape measure on an open part of the wall. Repeat dampening the wall and spreading cement until you’re finished.

How Installing Stone Veneer?

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Clean the wall to remove debris and stains. Rinse the wall off with a hose, then sweep away remaining dust and debris with a concrete brush. Spray off stubborn stains with a pressure washer. Strip away any paint on the wall with a pressure washer as well. Another way to remove tough stains is by attaching a wire brush to a right-angle grinder. Use the brush to scrub off the stains.


Apply a concrete bonding agent to the cleaned wall. Dip a 3 in (7.6 cm) paintbrush into the liquid bonding agent and use it to coat the wall from top to bottom. Keep the layer as smooth as possible to ensure the veneer fits evenly on the wall. You can get bonding agents, along with any other tool you need, online or at most home improvement stores.


Combine a veneer mortar mix with water in a wheelbarrow. Prepare the mix according to the manufacturer’s instructions to get it to a firm, spreadable consistency. If you don’t wish to use a store-bought mix, try making your own instead out of masonry cement and sand. Using a pre-made mix is much simpler and faster, however.


Make your own mix by combining 1 part masonry cement with 3 parts masonry sand. Put an acrylic polymer in a separate container to mix with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Combine all of the ingredients in your wheelbarrow to finish the mortar.


Coat the wall with a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) layer of mortar. Try using a hawk to scoop the mortar out of the wheelbarrow and then transfer it to the wall with a trowel. Using both tools together makes the process much faster. Apply the stucco to the top of the wall and spread it from left to right with a single motion of the trowel. Continue doing this to add more mortar as needed to cover the wall and smooth out the layer until it appears uniform.

The Knowledge of Tile Wood Glues

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Wipe away the excess glue. Use a damp rag to blot at the glue squeezing up through the cracks in the newly-repaired gap, then go over the seam until no residue remains. Any adhesive left behind by mistake could dry to a rough texture underfoot or produce mild discoloration in the laminate.


If you used caulk or wood putty to fill the gap, you may need to sand down the excess material once it has had time to dry. For the smoothest finish, use 180-grit sandpaper or higher. Most wood glues dry clear, which means they won’t be visible in the seam between the two planks.


If there are a large number of patches on your floor, or there’s a noticeable difference in level of sheen, you might need to re-varnish the entire floor. Wipe down tiles. After the grout has completely dried, clean it off again with a dry cloth. Seal your tiles. If you want, you can apply a grout sealant to help protect your tiles.


Add a small line of silicone caulk to the bottom edge of your tile to seal out water and prevent mildew growth. Sprinkle over a little turpentine and white spirit. This will create patchy streaks on the dark paint of the squares. Leave the dark squares to dry. Remove the paper from the border. Paint entirely in black paint. While it is still wet, use a paint cloth to wipe turpentine in it here and there, to create a mottled effect.


Don’t do all of the border, just parts to give the effect of old marbling. Use a fine brush to add very thin faux white lines to the border. Only do this part once the paint has dried. Remove the paper from the entire floor. Seal the floor with five thin coats of a low-gloss polyurethane varnish. Allow each layer to dry before adding the next.