How to Using a Tiling Tool for Straight Cut a Ceramic Tiles?

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Measure and mark your wood tile with a square and a pencil. A square is a ruler shaped like a right angle. Align one edge of the square with one edge of your small tile. Use a pencil and the other edge to draw your guideline. This method is great if you have a lot of tiles to cut. It’s also suitable if you need to cut a lot of surface area, such as corner-to-corner cuts (as opposed edge-to-edge).

Set the tile into a tile cutter. Set the square aside and set the tile into the tile cutter. Push the marble tile right up against the fence, and make sure there is no debris preventing the tile design from touching the fence. Make sure that the line that you drew is right under the scoring wheel.

Use the tile cutter to score the tile. Use smooth, even pressure. Gently press down on the handle of the cutter, then slide the wheel part across the wall tile. Hearing a scratching noise is nothing to worry about, it just means everything is going as planned and the tile is being cut.

Use the tile cutter to snap the tile in half. Move the handle away from the edge of the floor tile so that the breaking feet land on top of the tile. Gently press down on the handle again to lower the breaking feet and snap the tiles.

Use a jig and a strip of wood if you need to snap off a thin strip. Set up a jig that’s composed of 2 1-by-4s. Separate the 1-by-4s with a strip of wood that’s the same thickness as your tile. Make sure that the scored line is level with the edge of your jig set-up. Press down on the tile to create a clean break.

Smooth the cut edges with a brick if needed. Rub the cut edge of the bathroom tile back and forth across a brick until the roughness is gone. If you don’t have a brick handy, concrete will also work.

How to Using a Glass Cutter for Straight Cut a Ceramic Tiles?

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The tool you use will depend on what sort of cut you are doing and how many marble tiles you plan on cutting. If you just have to cut a few tiles design, a glass cutter will suffice. If you need to cut more tile, however, a tiling tool or a wet saw might be more convenient.

Use a pencil and a square to measure and mark your floor tile. A square is a special ruler shaped like a right angle. Align the horizontal edge of the square with the bottom edge of the tile. Use the vertical edge of the square and a pencil to draw your guideline. This method is better suited to small jobs where you just need to cut a few small tile. It is not suitable for cutting corners or curves.

Set the tile down onto a sturdy surface and reposition the square. A workbench or plywood would work the best for this. Move the square off to the side so that it is right next to your marked line. This will allow you to cut right along the line without cutting into the square.

Score the tile with the glass cutter. Press down on the bathroom tile with the glass cutter, then drag it across the line that you drew, using the square as a guide. You may have to score the tile a few times in order to make a shallow cut. If you can’t find a glass cutter, try a carbide tipped pencil instead.

Snap the tile over a wire hanger. Place the polished tile on top of a wire hanger. Make sure that the hanger is aligned with the line that you scored. Next, press down on the un-scored edges of the tile until it snaps. if you scored from left-to-right, press down on the top and bottom edges, and vice versa. If you scored the tile close to the edge, snap off the thinner side with tile nippers.

Smooth the edges of the tile with a brick, if needed. You can do this by rubbing the cut edge of the marble tiles design back and forth across a brick or some concrete. This will buff away any roughness, much like sandpaper would on a block of wood.

How to Make Ceramic Tiles?

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Ceramic tile can be a beautiful addition to your home or garden. It begins with just a lump of clay, which is mixed with other ingredients to create a medium by which to form the tiles. Pigments and designs are added before glazing to add color and texture. If you love working with your hands, making your own ceramic tile can be fun and rewarding, especially if you intend to use it in your own home or garden. Aside from purchasing a kiln for firing your tiles, most ingredients are fairly inexpensive and some can be made from materials in your own home. Making ceramic tiles takes only a bit of creativity and time.

Begin with good clay, such as that designed for sculpting and that has small- and large-sized grog (fired and ground up clay). Check the temperature at which you will fire the clay. Ensure that the clay you use will mature at that temperature. Work the clay when it is fairly dry. Ensure that your wood tiles are at least 1/2-inch (1.3 cm) thick.

Roll a slab of clay onto a hard working surface from which your clay can be easily removed. Use a slab roller to flatten the clay. Calculate the diameter of a ball of clay that is needed to reach your marble tile’s size, including shrinkage. Use a magic marker to mark that size on your bat. Throw to the mark.

Determine the weight of the clay ball that ended up to be the correct dimensions of your floor tiles and use that weight for the rest of the clay. Construct a bottomless wood frame. Pound the clay into the frame. Cut off the excess clay. Allow the clay to dry slightly or use a spray lubricant to avoid having it stick to the wooden frame. Push the clay out of the frame’s bottom using a strong material the same size as the clay.

Purchase a clay-cutting device, which is similar to a cheese slicer, or make your own. Ensure that the device is at the specific thickness for your tile specifications. Put the device wire evenly through the block of plugged clay (ground clay that is kneaded with water and becomes more elasticized) to slice off bathroom tile pieces.


Make a metal or wooden template. Cut the cement tiles out after the clay has dried to a leathery consistency. Cover the tiles with plastic. Place the tiles between two pieces of sheetrock, plywood or fire-proofing board to help draw out the moisture or dry the tiles on a wire rack or plastic grids.

Incise a slab of clay with a 3.94-inch-long (100 mm) line. Fire the slab at the appropriate temperature. Measure the line after firing to determine shrinkage rate. Stack your kitchen tiles atop each other or place the tiles in a tile setter for bisque firing or place topps tiles on a flat surface for glaze firing. Create a moat to protect your tiles and ensure even firing using bars of clay.

What Should We Do Before Clear Porcelain Tiles?

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Keep porcelain tiles spotless isn’t difficult, but it can get tricky when the tile is stained or hasn’t been protected or sealed property. Thankfully, there are several cleaning options at your disposal to clean the porcelain tiles. You may have polished or glazed porcelain tiles, unpolished or unglazed porcelain tiles, or textured marble porcelain tiles. You will need to use different approaches depending on the type of tile you are cleaning. With some patience and discipline, you can make sure your tiles are clean and stain-free.

Sweep the floor with a dust mop. Start by sweeping the floor to remove any dust on the porcelain tiles. You can use a dry dust mop or a vacuum. You can also use a microfiber mop, as it will be gentle on the tiles design. Brooms with straw or plastic bristles will be too harsh on the floor and could scratch the small tiles. Make sure you sweep in the corners and between tiles. You want to try to remove as much surface dust on the glazed rustic tiles as you can before you move on to more intense cleaning.

Use a soft, nylon brush to remove any dirt. You can use a nylon cleaning brush or an old toothbrush to remove any dirt or dark spots on the flooring tiles. Wet the floor with hot water and use the brush to remove surface dirt. Scrub the tile in a circular motion, making sure the tile is damp when you scrub it. Do not scrub any tiles that are dry, as this could scratch the tile.

Apply a cleaning solution for stains. If you notice any stains on your polished or glazed porcelain tiles, you should apply a cleaning solution using a mop. You can use a home solution of white vinegar and water or a professional cleaning solution. Make a home solution by combining ¼ cup white vinegar with two gallons of warm water. Mop the floor and let it sit for five to ten minutes. Then, mop the floor again, rinsing off the solution. The vinegar will help to disinfect, deodorize, and clean the tiles.

For a professional option, use a cleaning solution from your local home hardware store or the cleaning supplies aisle. You should make sure the solution is safe for use on glazed or polished tile before you use it. You may want to do a spot test by using a small amount of the solution on the floor to ensure it does not damage the floor. If there are coffee stains on the tiles, you can use baking soda to remove them. Apply a sprinkle of baking soda on the stain and then dampen it with a clean cloth. Gently scrub the area until the stain is removed.

Mop the floor. Finish your cleaning by mopping the tiles with a floor cleaner. You should use a mild cleaning solution that is safe for use on glazed or polished porcelain tiles. Make sure you mop the floor one more time with hot water before the cleaner dries on the tiles. This will ensure the cleaner does not stain or damage the tiles.

Dry and buff the floor. Use a microfiber cloth or a clean towel to dry the floor completely. Make sure there are no water spots or puddles of water remaining on the wood marble tiles. You can also open a window or set up a fan to dry the floor. Place fans in the room and open any windows to ensure an adequate airflow throughout the room. Once the floor is dry, you can buff it to a shine with a piece of cheesecloth. Rub the cheesecloth over the tiles in circular motions to buff them.

How To Install Floor Tile Like an Expert?

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Lay down marble tile cement or thinset mortar where your first section of tile design will be.
Use the flat side of the trowel to key in the thinset, and then comb with the notched side of the trowel with even horizontal lines. The goal is to have a nice even application of cement or mortar for the cement tile to hold onto, and even horizontal lines grip the ceramic tile better than random curved lines. Only lay down as much mortar as you can work with in 10 minutes; otherwise it will begin to harden and become difficult to work with.

If you’re using tile cement, give it about 15 minutes to become tacky so the wood tile will stick properly. Use tile cement with linoleum and vinyl small tiles, and thinset mortar with ceramic or porcelain tiles. Start laying the flooring tiles in the middle of the room, lining them up with your chalk lines. Press each tile gently into the cement or mortar; you can also use a rubber mallet to do this after you complete each section.

Put a grout spacer at each corner of your tiles. Butt each new tile up to these, taking care not to slide the tiles through the adhesive material. Wipe up the thinset that squishes up between the tiles. Continue laying all but the tiles on the outer edges of your room. Then, measure the space between the last tile and the wall and mark the tiles you need to cut. Use a wet saw to make these cuts and install the cut tiles like you installed the others.

If you lay all the polished tile in the middle of the room first and then mark and cut your white tile afterward, you only need to rent the wet saw for one day, saving you wall tile and money. As you lay down smaller pieces of marble wall tile in the corners of rooms, back-butter the individual tiles instead of messily trying to get mortar into the small nooks and crannies of your room. Allow the tile adhesive to dry overnight, then remove the grout spacers, if necessary. Some can be left in place so check with the manufacturer to be sure.

Mix your grout according to the directions on the package; usually grout is mixed with water in a 5 gallon (18.9 L) bucket. It should have a peanut butter-like consistency. Like the thinset mortar, it should slake for 10 minutes and then briefly be mixed again before application. Use a masonry float to spread the grout into the spaces between the common marble tiles, creating a smooth surface. Float your grout in several different directions to make sure you’re working the grout into the grout lines effectively and evenly.

Work quickly here. The grout sets up fast — considerably faster than the mortar does. For this reason work only in small areas before branching out. Remove the excess grout you get on the tiles with a sponge. Again, give yourself a small area to work on so that the grout doesn’t set up before you have time to wipe it off the tiles. You can also use a damp cloth after this time to rub away any haze left over on the tile. Let the grout set for at least a few hours. Seal the grout after it has set for 72 hours. Use a grout sealer with an applicator brush and take care not to get any on the wood marble tile itself.

What Should We Do Before Install Floor Tile?

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If you need to, clean the existing floor thoroughly with a non-toxic floor cleaner. You’ll want to remove all glue, dirt and existing mortar before you start laying your new tile floor. The flooring tiles should be completely clean in order for maximum bonding between the tile design and the thinset. TSP, or trisodium phosphate, is a great all-purpose cleaner if you need to use it. It cleans extremely effectively, but is no longer as widely used today as it was before because of environmental concerns.

Decide where you want to start your marble tile. Most people decide to lay tile from the center of the room outward, which is important if you’re dealing with even-sized tiles. This method will create a nice effect in the center of the room, but rustic tiles in the edges of the room will need to be cut. You may decide to start tiling from another spot in the room, especially if you’re using irregular-sized tiles. You may choose to have uncut small tiles on the sides of the room and work from there if cabinets, sofas, or other furniture is covering tiles on one side of the room. This article will assume that you want to start from the center of the room and work outward.

Make sure you do a dry layout with your wood tile and spacers directly on the cement board before you lay down the mortar. A dry layout will allow you to visualize the room as it might be when everything is finished. Experiment with different layouts until the right one catches your eye.

Find the center of the room by snapping a chalk line in the center of the room widthwise and lengthwise. Set up your chalk string in the center of each wall by measuring the wall and putting the string exactly in the middle. Leave the string in place after you snap it to use as a guide for your first few marble floor tiles. Lay down some polished floor tiles along one of the center lines to make sure you marked the center of the room properly. If you realize that your chalk lines aren’t square, redo them now.

Line up your boxes of wall tile and open each one. When you’re laying the porcelain tile, alternate which box you’re pulling from to account for any variation in color among the boxes. If you’re making a design or pattern with the common marble tile, put the tiles in order so you know which ones you need at any specific time.

If you end with a very small or very large space in comparison with the size of the tile you’re using, move everything down so the extra space is about the width of a half a piece of tile and snap new chalk lines to use when placing the tiles. You don’t want to have to cut your tile into small pieces to finish a row along the wall.

The Knowledge Before Install Floor Tile

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Installing a tile floor can be time-consuming work. For those on a busy schedule, it can take a week to get the whole project accomplished. However, the process itself is straightforward and the end result is well worth the effort you put in. See Step 1 for more information on how to do DIY tile layout with minimal experience and lots of fun.

Laying Down a Cement Board. Install cement board first if you’re dealing with just a subfloor. While it’s possible to lay wood tile directly on plywood subfloor, it’s certainly not recommended. Plywood subfloor won’t bond as surely with thinset as cement board will; neither will it provide as even and stable of a surface for the common marble tile. Cement board will probably be a bit more expensive and will add time to your project, but the investment is totally worth it. Tile done right requires a solid substrate.

The cement tiles in mortar and grout is a serious chemical and you need proper safety gear. Cement can cause first degree burns, eye injury from dust or wet cement getting into your eyes and also can sometimes cause lifelong chromium sensitization, so be safe EVERY time and wear alkali-resistant waterproof gloves, long sleeves and long pants (unlike the pictures in this article, which don’t follow proper safety guidelines!) and waterproof or thick shoes. Wear goggles with side protectors and a ventilator at LEAST when pouring mortar to mix it, preferably throughout the project – remember, if mortar gets into your eyes, even once, you’ll have to flush with water for 20 minutes and may need a trip to the hospital. Don’t wash mortar off with normal soap (special pH neutral soap can be used). Make sure there’s nowhere mortar can get inside and get trapped against your skin. Rinse any mortar that touches your skin off right away, and keep vinegar on hand to neutralize.

Lay down some latex-modified thinset mortar onto the subfloor.If you’re mixing mortar from scratch, add enough water to the dry mortar so that the final consistency resembles peanut butter. Then, let the mortar slake, or rest, for 10 minutes. Use a trowel with notches about the same size as the cement board thickness to lay down the mortar. Lay only enough mortar that you can safely cover in about 10 minutes. This is the time it will take the mortar to start hardening.

Press down the cement board onto the subfloor and attach with cement board screws. Starting in one corner, press the cement board down to the subfloor using your own weight. Drill the cement board screws into the board to fasten the board to the subfloor. Screw about every 8 inches (20.3 cm) around the edge of the board and every 10–12 inches (25.4–30.5 cm) in the center of the board.

Continue laying mortar and cement board onto the subfloor, staggering the end joints so that they don’t line up. For added strength, make sure that the end joints don’t form one continuous line. This means that you might need to lay one line of cement board starting on one side of the room, and then start the next line on the opposite side of the room.

How to Remove Bathroom Wall Tile?

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Protect yourself and your surroundings. Wear wraparound safety goggles, work gloves, long sleeves, long work pants, and a dust mask. Lay a canvas drop cloth over the bathtub, shower floor, or any fixtures you want to protect from chipping. Cover any drains with painter’s tape. Consider tearing apart shower walls. Shower tiles are usually installed over drywall and/or thin backerboard over drywall. Ripping the entire substrate away is much faster than removing the tiles piece by piece, but will break all your marble tiles. Chip away the rounded bullnose wood tiles from the edge and top of a shower with a hammer and chisel.

Cut through the drywall along the edge of the tiles design with a utility knife. Cut along the edge of the wall studs, if possible. A reciprocating saw is the best tool for this job. Place a pry bar against this line and lever away large sections of the wall. Work it left and right to loosen the nails holding the drywall in. Once the side walls are removed, remove the back wall of ceramic tiles by breaking small tiles in a vertical line with a hammer, then prying the exposed edge.

Chisel away polished tiles instead. This method is slower, but allows you to save some of the wall tiles for reuse. Scrape away some of the grout in a long line using a utility knife, grout saw, or rotary grinder. Place a chisel against the edge of a tile in this line, almost flat against a wall, and tap with a hammer. If all goes well, the tile will pop out. If it doesn’t budge or if a small piece chips off, remove grout from the sides and try again.

This becomes easier once the first tile is removed. An electric chisel can speed this job up. Remove adhesive. After chiseling away kitchen floor tiles, scrape away the adhesive with a putty knife or hand scraper. Try soaking the tiles in water first to soften the mortar.

What Should We Pay Attention When Remove Bathroom Floor Tile?

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Remove the marble tiles without removing the substrate.If the material beneath the wall tiles is in good condition, you can save yourself some money and leave it intact. That said, this method is slow and often causes some damage to the substrate; use your best judgement. Remove the tiles design with a flat pry bar, placing the edge low against the side of the tile and striking the base of the knife with a hammer. An electric chisel is another option. Periodically scrape adhesive off the exposed floor with a putty knife or a floor scraper.

If the ceramic tile only breaks in tiny pieces, or if you want to maximize the chance that the small tile comes out intact, scrape out the grout lines around the flooring tiles first. You may use a handheld grout saw, a carbide blade fitted onto a rotary grinder or oscillating tool, or (less effectively) a utility knife with several spare blades. A little heat from a blow dryer or heat gun may soften the grout.

Saw through plywood or cement board substrate. Chip away a row of white tiles to expose this substrate. Fit a reciprocating saw with a long blade (wood-cutting or carbide-tipped masonry cutting, depending on the material). Cut into the side of the substrate at a low angle, making a long cut to free it from the floor beneath. You can now lift the material and tile up in chunks with a flat bar. Cutting through cement board may damage the floor beneath, and roofing nails may interrupt your progress. A safer, but slower alternative is to break through the cement board with a hammer. You can then pry the cement board off the floor beneath using a pry bar.

Remove the mortar bed. Floor tiles from the 1960s and earlier were often installed on a thick mortar bed. Mortar beds were typically installed in areas where the floor was sloped for drainage, e.g., in shower areas. This is a pain to remove, but chiseling out the tiles is slow and will likely cause cracks in the mortar anyway, so it’s best to replace it now if you can afford it.

Most mortar beds are made of sand mixed with a small quantity of Portland cement tiles, and are not particularly difficult to break up. Shut off the house’s main water valve before you begin. Removing the mortar bed may damage a water pipe. Break through a small area with a chisel and sledge to the surface beneath (usually wood). Using a rotary hammer with a chisel bit (from a tool rental company), chisel around a chunk of mortar about 1 foot (0.3 m) across. Use caution when approaching the base of the bed. Complete the job by using the hammer between the wood and the mortar bed, periodically chiseling the mortar from above.

How to Remove Bathroom Floor Tile?

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Removing ceramic tiles is a time consuming job, especially if you’re trying to preserve them for reuse elsewhere. If your tiles are only chipping off in tiny pieces, you may need to spend more time scraping out grout, or switch to power tools instead of a hand chisel.

Protect fixtures and usable floor with drop cloth. Remove all unnecessary objects from the room. Cover bathtubs, counters, mirrors, and other fixtures with a drop cloth to protect them from flying pieces of tile. Carefully cover any drains with painter’s tape. Lay down drop cloth over any part of the floor you plan to keep as well. For hygienic reasons, clean the bathroom thoroughly before you continue.

Remove the toilet, if necessary. If the toilet (or a pedestal sink) is covering the tile, turn off the shutoff valve on the water supply line. Flush the toilet until the tank and bowl are both dry, finishing the job with a hand-operated pump, then a sponge. Detach the tank using a wrench. Set the tank and the toilet aside on old towels or other absorbent materials. Leave the tank and bowl attached, and remove both at once.

You may need to rock the toilet back and forth to break the caulk, or cut away the caulk with a utility knife. Carefully remove the wax ring that creates a seal between the base of the toilet and the drainage pipe. You may wish to wear gloves during this process, since the wax ring is very sticky. Clean any remaining wax off the base of the toilet with a rag soaked in mineral spirits. You will need to replace the wax ring with a new one when you re-install the toilet. Consider retrofitting your toilet with a wax ring that comes with an extension to accommodate higher flanges. After removing the toilet, plug the hole with a rag to block sewer gases.

Put on safety equipment. Wear heavy-duty gloves, wraparound safety goggles, and long sleeves to protect yourself from sharp tile pieces. Wear a dust mask to protect against dust from pulverized tile. You should also wear work pants, a hat, and work boots. ceramic tiles and mortar commonly contained asbestos until the 1980s in the US, and the 1990s in some regions. Test old tiles design and mortar for asbestos and, if asbestos is found, hire a professional to remove the small tiles safely.

Even modern cement tiles often use lead glaze, which creates lead dust during removal. One tile removal project is unlikely to cause dangerous exposure, but to be on the safe side, ventilate the bathroom to the outside, and wash skin and clothes after completing the project. Buy a respirator mask rated for lead dust if you expect repeat exposure.

Break through the first tile.Use a cold chisel and sledgehammer to break apart one tile, and deposit the pieces into a bucket. This will give you a look at the subsurface, which can help determine your approach. Read through the rest of this section before you decide how to continue. If you want to preserve as many tiles intact as possible — which is difficult and time-consuming — first cover the center of the tile with masking tape and drill several holes through it with a carbide-tipped drill bit. This will reduce the number of flying pieces that can chip nearby tiles.