How to Install Glass Tile?

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Glass tile is a beautiful material that can bring light and shine to any room in a house, creating a clean modern-yet-classic look. Sheets of paper-faced glass tile make setting tile easier by mostly eliminating individual tile setting, but you can also get traditional tiles made from glass. With Barana as your guide, you’ll get a professional look without the professional price.

A laser level is handy because it will continue to be available even after you lay down your mortar. You can use a chalk line to line up your tiles but it’s easy to accidentally cover it. Getting a level line is important because walls, ceilings, and other surfaces in your home are often not as straight as they look. A wall, for example, can be taller in one spot than it is in another.

Test your pattern. Dry fit your wood tiles before putting up any mortar to make sure that you like your pattern and that you know how the different tiles or sheets properly fit together. Lay out a couple to get an idea and then get ready for the fun to start!

Mix some thin set mortar. You will use thin set mortar to attach the elegant tiles to the wall or other tiling surface. You’ll need to mix the mortar according to the package instructions, but generally you want to start with the powder and add water very gradually. When the mortar has a consistency like peanut butter, you’ve got the right amount of water. Mix only what you can spread in 20 minutes. Let the mortar sit for 10 minutes, stir it up again and then it’s ready to use.

Spread the mortar. Spread the mortar using a notched trowel in a roughly 3’x3′ space. Spread the mortar out and then use the trowel to create straight, parallel lines in the mortar. These will help the tiles adhere to the wall. You might want to do a test tile first, however, in order to make sure that your mortar is the right consistency. Place a tile down and them pull it back off: when you set the tile on the mortar, if the mortar comes up between the tiles so that it is even with the face of the tile, then your mortar is too thick or maybe wet. If you see lines of mortar on the back of your tile when you pull it up, then your mortar is too dry or the bed of mortar is too thin.

Preparing for Install Glass Tile

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Check your surface for structural integrity. Before you start tiling, make sure that whatever surface will be supporting the tiles will be strong and structurally sound. You don’t want to do all this beautiful tile work just to have to tear it down in two years! This means checking the wall studs if you’re putting the tile on a wall, the subfloor and floor joists if you’re tiling a floor, or the counter base and marble tile backing if you’re tiling a countertop.

Look for signs of mold and rot. This will usually be obvious, with seriously discolored wood or a surface which is soft and gives way under pressure. You’ll also want to look for cracks in the surface that you’re tiling. Small cracks may be normal but big cracks might need to be dealt with before you can continue.

Add a base material if you don’t have one. If you don’t have a solid surface to put your tiles on, you’ll need to add one. Cement board or drywall is best, as these can handle the moisture of the tiling process. Plywood should be absolutely avoided, since the wood will warp with the added moisture and it will also be less waterproof, even after tiling.

Cover any joints. Make sure that joints between cement boards or drywall are bridged with fiber mesh tape. You do not want the panels to move individual once your tile is up, since this will cause the tiles to crack.

Create your guide lines. With your surface prepared, you’ll want to create even lines that you can follow when setting your tiles. For glass tiles, using a laser level will be the easiest option. These can be purchased fairly cheaply and will project a straight line onto your surface that you can follow with your tiles. Just set it to level and then project the line where you want the tiles to go.

How Maintaining Your Tile Floor?

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Clean tile floors regularly. When it comes to maintaining tile, the best solution is prevention. By sweeping, vacuuming and polishing your flooring on a consistent basis, there will be less chance of stain-causing substances accumulating underfoot. Be on the lookout for places where dirt and debris have a tendency to collect, especially in corners, beneath furniture and around the baseboards.

Aim to sweep or vacuum your tile floors every couple of days, and to mop or give them a more extensive wipedown about once a week. Neglected wall tile will quickly begin to advertise itself. If you allow it to get bad enough, it may even negatively affect the value of your home.

Wipe up spills and messes right away. When left untreated, even the smallest spill can become a stubborn stain. As promptly as possible, blot the affected area with a clean cloth dampened with warm water or a small amount of vinegar solution. Tracked-in dirt and food particles should be swept up so they don’t get ground into grout or rough surfaces.

Gradually apply more vinegar as need until the stain begins to come out. Responding to messes quickly is especially important if you have light-colored tile or grout that make discoloration more noticeable.

Avoid using chemical cleaners. Tile is praised for its durability and ease of cleaning, but it’s not indestructible. Harsh chemicals like bleach can cause natural materials to fade, while astringent cleaners may ruin the smooth finish of porcelain tiles after only a few uses. Whenever possible, opt for mild green alternatives such as vinegar and baking soda instead.

Even commercial tile cleaners can take their toll when used frequently, and are usually no more effective than garden variety vinegar, anyway. Never use anything more abrasive than a stiff-bristled brush or kitchen sponge to scrub your tile floors. Doing so may leave behind small scratches in which dirt and mildew can set up for good.

How Deep-Cleaning Grout with Vinegar and Baking Soda?

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Combine warm water and vinegar in a spray bottle. Use equal quantities of both liquids and shake well to mix. The spray bottle will give you greater control over the application of the vinegar, which will be helpful when cleaning narrow spaces like grout lines. A spray bottle of vinegar is a convenient natural cleaning solution to have around in a pinch.

Sprinkle baking soda along one section of grout lines. You won’t need to use much—a thin dusting will be fine. Work the baking soda into the grout using your fingertips or the bristles of a brush. For maximum efficiency, proceed in small squares, following the grid-like pattern of the grout a few feet at a time. For particularly bad stains, you can also mix up a paste of baking soda and water, apply it to the grout and leave it to take effect overnight.

Spray the baking soda with the vinegar solution. Together, the two ingredients will start a mild chemical reaction, creating a fizzy foam that will bubble over the grout. Allow the baking soda and vinegar to sit for 5-10 minutes to ensure that it’s had time to eat away at the worst of the buildup.

This foaming action will make it much easier for the vinegar and baking soda combination to penetrate down into the tiny pores of the grout. To get the most out of the mixture’s stain-lifting power, wait until the foaming has died down before you begin scrubbing.

Scrub the grout clean. Using a stiff-bristled brush, scour the grout and space between the edges of the poly crystal tiles forcefully. After the vinegar and baking soda treatment, you should be able to lift out even the heaviest stains. Once you’re finished, give the floor a thorough rinse using a wet rag or sponge, then leave it to air dry.

Special brushes designed for cleaning grout can be bought cheap at all home improvement stores. Alternatively, you might also use a long-handled kitchen dish scrubber. Repurpose an old toothbrush and use it to clean grout. The narrow head of the brush coupled with the long handle make it the perfect tool for getting down into the spaces between wood tiles. Scrubbing grout by hand can be time-consuming, but it’s without a doubt the most effective means of restoring it to its original color.

How Mopping Tile Floors with Vinegar?

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Fill a bucket with hot water. For most floors, one or two gallons of water will suffice. If you need to clean a larger area, you can add an extra couple gallons incrementally. The warmer the water, the better it will be for loosening stuck-on dirt and grime.

Before you start mopping, make sure you’ve cleared the floor of all removable furniture, appliances and other objects that might get in the way or be damaged by water. If the bucket is too big to fit under the sink, try filling it your bathtub.

Add a cup of distilled white vinegar. Aim for a ratio of roughly ½ to 1 cup of vinegar for every gallon of water. Swish the vinegar solution gently to make sure it’s blended. Vinegar is mildly acidic, which makes it useful for dissolving hardened residue. Diluting the vinegar will prevent it from bleaching the color or wearing down the finish of your floor tiles. Other high-potency types of vinegar, such as apple cider vinegar, will also get the job done.

Mop the tiles with the vinegar solution. Work your way across the tiles, mopping in a circular or side-to-side direction. Make sure to spread the vinegar over the entire surface of the floor. Don’t forget to run the mop beneath nearby furniture and along the baseboards. As you mop, you should be able to see the results of the vinegar right away. Be careful not to saturate bordering wood or carpet flooring with the vinegar solution.

Rinse the floor with fresh water. Empty the bucket and refill it with clean, warm water. Go back over floor once more, wringing out and rewetting the mop every few feet. This will help clear the tiles of loose residue and any remaining traces of vinegar. Soak up excess water with the mop, a squeegee or an absorbent towel, the allow it to air dry completely.

If you skip the rinsing step, the dingy water will dry on the floor, leaving behind streaks and splotches. Making sure that the grout has a chance to dry out is essential for preventing the growth of mold and mildew, which thrive in warm, moist spaces.

How to Mop Ceramic Tile?

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Ceramic tile floors are sturdy and relatively low-maintenance. With just a little attention to detail, you can keep your tile floor looking new. Find out how to easily and effectively mop your ceramic tile floor after the jump. Sweep or vacuum your tile floor to remove any loose dirt, pet hair or other debris. Dilute your household cleaner according to the directions using a bucket and warm water. Submerge your mop into the bucket of soapy water until it is saturated.

Wring the mop well to remove excess water. If the bucket you’re using has a wringer on it, this is the preferred method of extracting the excess water. Some mops, especially those with cloth strips, have a wringer attached and these work just as well. If you don’t have either of these, you can simply use your hands to wring the mop.

Mop the tile in small sections, being careful not to walk over the wet areas. The grout is very porous and tends to hold more dirt than the tiles. Pay close attention to the grout when mopping your tile floor to be sure you’re covering the grouted parts well.

Immerse the mop into the soapy water after mopping each section of tile. Remove the excess water again by wringing the mop. Repeat these steps until the entire floor is clean. Allow the floor to dry completely. Speed up the drying process by opening windows and/or turning on fans in the room, if possible.

Rinse both the mop and bucket thoroughly. Add clean water to the bucket. Dip the mop into the clean water. Squeeze any excess water from the mop. Mop the floor again, following the same steps, but using only the clean water this time. Mopping the floor with clean water removes any build-up that may be left behind by the cleaning solution. The floor stays cleaner longer and helps reduce slipping. Allow the floor to dry completely.

How Using Homemade Cleaners?

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Use a paste of baking soda and bleach. Make a thick paste from ¾ cup (180 mL) of baking soda with ¼ cup (60 mL) of bleach. Use an old toothbrush or nylon scrubbing brush to work the paste into the grout. Let it sit for 15 minutes, then scrub it. Allow it to sit another 15 minutes, then wipe it off with a damp rag. Frequently rinse out the rag with water as you’re wiping off the paste.

Wear gloves when cleaning with bleach. Open a window or wear a respirator to protect your nose, throat, and lungs. Protect your eyes with safety glasses. Wear old clothes that can get bleached.

Try baking soda and vinegar. Rub baking soda into the grout with your finger. Make it stickier by combining water with the baking soda until you have a thick paste. Next, fill a spray bottle with vinegar and spray vinegar all over the baking soda. Let the mixture bubble for a few minutes, then scrub it with an old toothbrush or nylon scrubbing brush. Wipe up the solution with a damp rag that you rinse frequently.

Scrub it with coarse salt. Wet the grout and surrounding tiles with a damp sponge. Sprinkle it with a coarse salt, then scrub the salt into the grout with a toothbrush or nylon scrubbing brush. Allow the salt to dry overnight, then rinse it off in the morning. Scrub with any coarse salt, even Epsom salts. You can use the same method to clean your grout with Borax. Put a damp scrub brush in a bowl of the Borax and use that to scrub the grout.

Clean and lighten the grout with cream of tartar. Combine two teaspoons (9.85 mL) of cream of tartar with enough lemon juice to create a liquidy paste. Rub the paste into the grout, then scrub it with a toothbrush or nylon scrubbing brush. Rinse the paste off with plenty of water. Use water if you don’t have lemon juice.

How Removing Grout Haze?

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Clean the haze with a damp tile sponge. Dip a large yellow tile sponge in a bucket of water and wring it out. Scrub the tile in a single direction, rather than moving back and forth or cleaning in a circular motion. Rinse and wring the sponge frequently, and change out the water in the bucket when it gets dirty. Use grout haze remover if water doesn’t work. Pick up grout haze remover from your local hardware store or wood tile supply store. Put the remover on a clean cloth or rag, and wipe the tiles with it.

Mop the floor with vinegar and water as an alternative to haze remover. Mix 1 cup (240 mL) of distilled vinegar with 1 quart (0.946 L) of warm water. Mop the floor with this solution. Use a scrub brush on stubborn areas. Don’t rinse the vinegar solution off the floor. Allow it to dry completely before sealing. Don’t use vinegar on marble, travertine, or granite.

Remove hardened grout from your wood marble tile with sugar. Stir white sugar in warm water in a ratio of 1 part sugar to 10 parts warm water. Sponge this mixture into the hardened grout. Leave it alone for an hour, then scrape the grout off your tile. Keep applying sugar water as needed while you scrape to keep the tile moist.

Adjust the ratio of sugar to warm water until you have an effective mixture. Alternatively, you can apply undiluted vinegar to hardened grout to make it easier to scrape the grout off of your wall tile. Once the grout is removed, rinse the entire area thoroughly with plain water to remove all of the vinegar.

Sand it lightly if all else fails. Use a dry scrubbing sponge or cheesecloth to rub down the tile. Rub the only tile until the haze is removed. After you lightly sand the grout off of the small tile with the cheesecloth or sponge, vacuum up all of the dust before sealing. Try this method on grout that has not set for long. Don’t wet the sponge or cheesecloth or the dust from the grout will stick to the floor again.

 

Avoid using commercial detergents. Though you may be tempted to spray a commercial cleaning product on the tile to remove grout haze, this could actually make the problem worse. Not only can it create additional haze, it may discolor the grout between the mould wall tiles.

How to Drill Ceramic Tile?

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Ceramic tile is both hard and brittle, making it easy to damage both tile and drill bit. Adopt a patient approach with the correct tools, and you have a high chance of success. Hopefully, you will not have to read the included instructions for repairing cracked tile.

Diamond bits are more expensive, but can drill through extra-hard tiles. You may need these for modern porcelain tiles (made since the late 1990s), because they’re much harder than ceramic tiles. Masonry bits are made from carbide-tipped steel. These are strong enough to drill through, but their shape increases the risk of shattering porcelain and other brittle tiles.

As a last resort, use high speed steel (HSS) bits. Expect these to wear down after one or two holes. If drilling a large hole for plumbing installation, use a hole saw bit made from one of the above materials. Make sure its central pilot bit is also made from a suitable material.

Wear safety glasses. Ideally, the wood tile should not chip or break. In the event that it does, your eyes should be protected. Cover the area with masking tape. Tape over the area in an X shape, marking the site of the hole. This will help give the drill bit some traction, reducing the chance of it slipping. The tape also makes chipping less likely on the outer rim of the hole.

Tap the drill bit in lightly with a hammer. A drill bit may skip and jump around on the tile’s smooth surface, unless you make a small pilot hole to steady it. Hold the drill bit over the center of the X and tap it in with a hammer. Tap gently to avoid damage, repeating until you’ve made a small dent through the surface of the glaze. If you’re using a solid drill bit larger than 1⁄4 inch (0.6 cm), consider drilling a pilot hole with a smaller bit first.

Drill through the tile slowly. Set your drill to a low speed and apply modest pressure to the surface. Allow the drill to work slowly, rather than push hard and crack the tile. This may take three or four minutes. Applying too much pressure can cause the wall tile to blow out and crack on the backside, creating a weak spot in the tile and often a much larger hole than originally intended.

How to Tile a Wall With Porcelain Tile?

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Covering a wall is a great way to transform the look of a room. Wallpaper, fabric are excellent media for redecorating. Although ceramic tile is often used for flooring and countertops, it can serve as a patterned surface for a wall. Italy, China and the United States are known for creating porcelain tile designs used in home decoration. You will want to take extra time when applying the tile, to ensure it is straight and well spaced. Porcelain tile is also known for being fragile, so you will need to work carefully. Find out how to tile a wall with porcelain tile.

Apply final sealer. Apply a penetrating sealer using either a sponge or spray bottle to the grout joints once the grout has completely cured. Wipe off excess sealer from the tile immediately as it will stain the tile. Clean the tile’s surface. Wipe the tile with a rag soaked in mild soap and water. Examine the cleaned surface for damage.

If the tile is cracked, you’ll need to replace it before you continue. Choose a drill bit. An ordinary steel drill bit may fail to penetrate the tile, or cause it to shatter. Search for an appropriate bit using the following guidelines: Glass or tile bits are shaped to reduce the risk of shattering brittle materials. These should be carbide-tipped.

Diamond bits are especially vulnerable to damage from fast drilling. Drill no faster than 600 rpm for diamond bits below ½ inch (1.25 cm), or 450 rpm for bits from ½ to 1 inch (1.25—2.5 cm). Lubricate with water as you drill. Friction from drilling hard materials creates a great deal of heat, which can scorch the drill bit or even break the tile. Protect your project and extend the lifespan of the drill with a constant trickle of water. You may use a small hose, or an assistant with a squirt bottle or glass of water.

“Pump” the drill every 15 to 20 seconds with a tiny up-and-down motion. This draws water to the tip of the bit, where friction is greatest. The drill bit should never feel more than slightly warm. If it gets hot, stop and wet it until it cools down. As an alternative, lubricate the drill with drilling oil.

Penetrate the backing board. You can switch back to a regular drill bit for this process if you prefer. Continue to drill slowly and patiently, as it is just as important to maintain the wood or drywall behind the tile. Damaging the backing board can make it difficult to anchor your screw or whatever you plan to insert.