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How Covering the Wall with Vinyl Siding?

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Measure the width of the wall and cut furring strips to match it. Use a measuring tape to figure out what length the strips need to be. Furring strips are little more than wood boards treated to be water-resistant. They are approximately 2 × 4 × 8 in (5.1 × 10.2 × 20.3 cm) in size. Cut 2 separate boards to the same width as the wall.


Look for furring strips at your local home improvement store. Some places sell pre-cut strips, but you can also ask to have treated pine boards cut to the size you need. Position the boards to the top and bottom edges of the wall. The first strip is easy to position since you situate it on the side of the wall at the very top.


For the lower board, measure up about 6 in (15 cm) from the bottom edge of the wall. Make sure the boards go from one end of the wall to the other, adding additional boards as needed if yours are too short. Consider marking the installation points with chalk first. Check the line with a level to ensure the furring boards will form a straight row when you install them.


If your wall has windows, doors, and other obstructions, keep the furring strips away from them. Install separate furring strips around each of these components, basically framing them. For soffits and fascia, you can get separate pieces of vinyl designed to fit these wood components. Slide the vinyl into a top strip or J-channel and nail them as needed to hold them in place.


Attach the boards with screws placed every 16 in (41 cm). Measure along each of the furring strips, marking the attachment points with a pencil as needed. Use a masonry drill bit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) in diameter to create holes all the way through the wood. Then, fit 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) concrete screws into the holes to hold the boards in place.

The Knowledge of Tile Wood Glues

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Wipe away the excess glue. Use a damp rag to blot at the glue squeezing up through the cracks in the newly-repaired gap, then go over the seam until no residue remains. Any adhesive left behind by mistake could dry to a rough texture underfoot or produce mild discoloration in the laminate.


If you used caulk or wood putty to fill the gap, you may need to sand down the excess material once it has had time to dry. For the smoothest finish, use 180-grit sandpaper or higher. Most wood glues dry clear, which means they won’t be visible in the seam between the two planks.


If there are a large number of patches on your floor, or there’s a noticeable difference in level of sheen, you might need to re-varnish the entire floor. Wipe down tiles. After the grout has completely dried, clean it off again with a dry cloth. Seal your tiles. If you want, you can apply a grout sealant to help protect your tiles.


Add a small line of silicone caulk to the bottom edge of your tile to seal out water and prevent mildew growth. Sprinkle over a little turpentine and white spirit. This will create patchy streaks on the dark paint of the squares. Leave the dark squares to dry. Remove the paper from the border. Paint entirely in black paint. While it is still wet, use a paint cloth to wipe turpentine in it here and there, to create a mottled effect.


Don’t do all of the border, just parts to give the effect of old marbling. Use a fine brush to add very thin faux white lines to the border. Only do this part once the paint has dried. Remove the paper from the entire floor. Seal the floor with five thin coats of a low-gloss polyurethane varnish. Allow each layer to dry before adding the next.

Installing a Traditional Tile Backsplash

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Bring everything you have. There are several different items required to install a traditional ceramic back panel in the kitchen. Before you start your project, make sure you are well prepared. Materials to be prepared before starting include tiles, tile adhesives, and grout.


Make sure you have the necessary tools, including a notched trowel, tape measure, sponge, level, utility knife, and a tile cutter. You may need spacers for tiles that are not attached together in sections. You may want to use something to cover your countertops during this process to keep them clean.


Clean your walls. In order for the tile adhesive to stick the walls, they must be free of any dust or grease. Wipe them down with a damp rag, and give enough time for them to completely dry. Measure your space. It is important to make sure you get a good measurement so you know exactly what size you should cut your tiles.


Choose a stopping point, either directly below your cabinets or at an arbitrary point on the wall. Make sure that you have enough tiles to fill the measured space, as well as a few extras for precaution. Use a level and straight edge to mark your stopping point along the wall.


Apply the tile adhesive. Use your trowel to smooth the tile adhesive across the wall, working in small sections. If you apply too much at once, it will begin to dry before you get a chance to attach the tiles. Always start applying your tiles from the bottom center, and working outwards from there. Don’t apply the tile adhesive to the backs of the tiles, as it will be more difficult to attach them to the wall.

How Scoring and Snapping Thin Glass?

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Use a glass scoring tool to make straight lines. If you plan to make longer, straight cuts on tile 1⁄8 inch (3.2 mm) thick or less, use a glass scoring tool. Scoring refers to cutting small cuts in the surface of the glass that will allow you to break the piece off with a clean edge.. Choose a scoring tool with a carbide or diamond cutting wheel to score the glass.


Scoring and snapping allows you to cut larger squares of tile into smaller squares and isn’t ideal for cutting irregular shapes or patterns. The cuts need to be at least an 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide in order for you to snap it off, so scoring is not a good method to cut thin slivers of glass tile. You can find glass scoring tools at hardware stores or online for about $15.


Lay the glass tile face up on a flat surface. When you score and snap, you want to make your cuts on the front facing side of the tile so the visible part of the tile has the straightest line. Place the glass tile on a workstation or table with the side that will be facing out when you install the tile facing up.


Be sure to lay the glass tile down gently to avoid chipping or cracking it. Tip: Consider laying a towel or cardboard down beneath the glass tile to keep it from knocking against the surface.

Use a straightedge and washable marker to draw guidelines. Scoring and snapping is ideal for breaking glass tiles across their entire surface, rather than cutting sections out of a larger piece of glass tile. To give yourself a guideline, place a straightedge on the tile, and use it to guide your washable marker as you make a straight line across the tile. Washable marker will wipe off easily after you snap off your glass tile.

How to Cleaning tile?

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Avoid cleaning with abrasive materials. Never clean your solid stone tiles with anything that’s abrasive. These can scratch and damage the tiles. When making or buying cleansers, avoid: Hard bristle brushes, Vinegar or lemon juice, Products with acid cleanse.


Trowel some thin-set onto the back of the tile and spread it with a notched trowel. This process is called “back buttering.” Apply mortar to the backer board along with back buttering and then set the tiles on top of that. It’s a lot cleaner, too!


Be sure not to apply too much mortar to the back of a tile. You only need a little in each corner and a little dab in the middle for back buttering. More isn’t necessarily better when it comes to thin-set. Keep in mind that back buttering is only necessary when you are using a larger tile (8″ x 8″ or larger) and you only need to add a little dab of thin set mortar to each corner.


Set the first tile in the middle of the wall (or floor). This will create a pleasant visual effect and allow each tile that is placed beside it on either side seem centered. After back buttering, simply press the tile onto the backer board and apply pressure to make sure that the mortar adhered properly to both the tile and the backer board. Then, give the tile a little twist and tap each one with a rubber mallet, especially the floor tiles.


Wipe away any excess thin-set mortar after pressing the tile onto the backer. Although you’ll be grouting and caulking between the tiles, it’s best not to leave any thin-set on oozing out from the sides of the tile. Dig out any oozing thin-set that you notice. Simply wipe away excess thinset with your finger or a Q-tip.

How to Clean Outdoor Tiles?

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Outdoor tiles are a great way to beautify a space, but you do need to clean them regularly. Identify what your tiles are made of (porcelain, wood, composite, or solid stone). Dust or dry mop the dirt and debris before you wash the tiles with a mild soap or vinegar solution. You’ll need to deep clean the tiles once or twice a year to prevent mold and mildew from growing. To keep the tiles looking great, always avoid using abrasive cleansers and products.


Remove stains as soon as you notice them. Try to remove any stains as soon as you notice them. Fill a 5 US gal (19 L) bucket with water. Buy a commercial floor cleaner that’s safe to use on porcelain and add 3 to 4 capfuls of the product to the water. Use a small brush or mop to scrub the mixture over the stain until it’s removed. Avoid using an oil-based cleanser for stain removal on your porcelain tiles. These can leave an oily residue on the tiles which can make them slippery.


Avoid cleaning with abrasive materials. While you might think that you need to scrub built on dirt with a rough brush, you should avoid anything that’s abrasive to the porcelain. Avoid using abrasive cleaners like: Hard bristle brushes or steel wool, Cleaning products with ammonia or bleach, Oil-based detergents or wax cleansers.


Avoid cleaning with abrasive materials. Your wood or composite tiles may become slightly scuffed over time. These scuffs may disappear on their own, so avoid trying to remove them with abrasive cleansers (like sandpaper or pressure washers). If you place salt or ice on your tiles in the winter, clean it off as soon as the hazardous weather passes. Ice and salt can damage the tiles if they sit on them for very long.


You’ll need to change the water several times and keep rinsing until the soap residue is completely removed. Stone tiles tend to fade in color over time due to sun exposure, so use a stone enhancer and sealer to protect them. Make sure you find one that is safe for outdoor use.

How Cleaning Unpolished/Unglazed Porcelain Tiles?

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Use a dry dust mop to sweep the floor. Start by removing any dirt and dust on the surface of the floor. You should use a dry dust mop instead of a broom, as the broom could scratch the tiles. Make sure you use the dust mop in any corners of the room and between the tiles. Removing the surface dirt and dust will make cleaning the tiles easier.

Mop the floor with a mild cleaning solution. You should then use a mild cleaning solution on the floor to get rid of any stains and dirt. You can use a commercial cleanser or make your own solution using water and vinegar. Combine ¼ cup white vinegar with two gallons of warm water to make a home cleaning solution. Mop the floor and let it sit for five to ten minutes. The vinegar will help to disinfect, deodorize, and clean the tiles.

You can look for commercial cleaner at your local hardware store or in the cleaning aisle. Make sure the cleaner is made for use on unpolished or unglazed porcelain tiles.

Scrub and rinse the floor. Once you apply the cleanser, you should let it sit on the floor for about 10 minutes. Then, use a soft bristle brush to scrub at any stains. Scrub in circular motions at the stains until they are removed. You should wipe away any remaining cleaner solution on the floor and then rinse it well with hot water. Do not let the cleanser sit on the tiles after 10 minutes, as it could damage the tile.

Dry the floor well. Use a clean towel to dry the floor. Make sure you dry it thoroughly, with no water spots or puddles of water on the floor. You can also open windows in the room and use a fan to dry the floor.

Repairing Cracked Tiles

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Fill hairline cracks with epoxy or tile filler. You can repair hairline cracks without having to replace the only tile, as long as the wall tile is still firmly set. You can use specialized ceramic tile repair kits, but a two-part ceramic epoxy will work fine. Mix the two components together using a piece of scrap wood, then spread over the crack using a clean rag. Wipe up the excess using a second rag. Take care not to get the epoxy in the grout lines between tiles.

Add color to hide the repair. There are two ways to make the repair invisible: Before filling, mix the epoxy with epoxy tint the same color as the tile. Or, after filling, paint over the repair using an oil-based enamel paint marker. Select a replacement tile for more severe damage. Purchase a replacement casstle tile for any damage wider than a hairline crack. Bring the tile to a home repair store to find a match for size, shape, and pattern. Note the thickness of the tile as well. A thinner replacement will need a layer of mastic to raise it.

Remove surrounding grout. Carefully cut away the grout around the broken tile. A grout saw will make this task go faster, but you can use a hammer and chisel instead. Work slowly all the way around the tile, to allow for safe removal without damaging the surroundings. Break away the rest of the tile. Use a hammer and large chisel to break the tile apart. Angle it away from you and start from the center to reduce damage to backing. Wear gloves and safety glasses. Lay down cloth to protect surrounding surfaces from ceramic shards.

 

Replace tile adhesive. Scrape off the existing adhesive using a putty knife. Spread a new layer of thin-set mortar onto the wall or floor. Follow label instructions for mixing the mortar. You may need to wear a dust mask. Press in the new tile. Make sure the tile is flush by tapping it in place with a rubber mallet, or a piece of wood wrapped in cloth. Scrape out any excess mortar from the grout lines with a screwdriver.

Replace the grout. Let the tile dry overnight, or as specified in your mortar instructions. Mix the grout, then add a thin line around the tile using a plastic putty knife. After a week, apply grout sealer over the grout to protect from moisture.

The Color Of The Kitchen Tile Relates To Your Cooking And Appetite

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Believe a lot of people know color is can affect a person’s mood and appetite, so the color of kitchen tile can also affect our cooking and appetite. So what color are our kitchen tiles better?
Now most interior design our house color is basically light color mainly, if the color is too deep or dark kitchen tile more than 60 words can cause depressing.So the color of the tile is the key to a kitchen, the kitchen is the place that cook, some families also have a meal, if the kitchen tile color too deep, can let a person produce visual fatigue.Easy to cause a person’s cooking slump, loss of appetite. Kitchen tile is best choose white, still have kitchen implement also. White kitchen tile can let a person more understand hygiene condition, can clean in time.


You also can use your favorite color, but you best to make it light color.Now I want to tell you a few colors of the kitchen tile:
Red means passion, and decoration can be embellished with a small amount of red. It has the effect of reducing fatigue and releasing energy.
Black and white have a calming effect. For insomnia and grumpy people, have a very good calming effect.


Green can give a person to bring comfortable, relaxed feeling. Suitable for bedroom and toilet decoration.
Orange is the symbol of vitality, use orange table and ambry can stimulate a person’s appetite and promote blood circulation.
So that the collocation of color is very important, then everybody kitchen tile color must choose good, otherwise can affect appetite.

There Are Five Problems To Pay Attention To Tile

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As is known to all, decorate choose ceramic tile is very important, but if you buy a good ceramic tile, post didn’t pay attention to the shop is very damaged engineering of one thing, the small make up today is to teach people, must pay attention to the 5 items in the shop sticks ceramic tile.

1.The ceramic tile should be soaked thoroughly
Ceramic tile are through full immersion in front of the shop is stuck, it is to give the pore to absorb moisture, ceramic tile in the shop is stuck not easy to appear the phenomenon of empty drum, fall off, if not immerse directly to the wall ceramic tile, is likely to be sucked through the moisture in the cement directly to the ceramic tile, reach a certain amount of time, ceramic tile can appear even crack, this will cause a lot of waste ceramic tile, and the quality of the shop is stuck is bad.
2.Choose high-quality cement sand
Ceramic tile should want to have good spread quality, must choose high quality cement sand, such ceramic tile can stick tight solid; The main point of selecting cement is to check whether it has QS certification, and to see if it has a shelf life. If it is past its expiration date, it is better not to choose. Sand had better choose river sand, river sand contain water is bigger, paste effect will be better.


3.Three, cut ceramic tile had better put in the position of corner
Cutting ceramic tile seems always seem to be some uneven, so the location of the best cutting ceramic tile is in the corner, this position at the end can use sealant to seal, does not affect the housing decoration effect. If you put it in a prominent place like a window, it will affect the beauty of the house.
4.The first brick should be selected
The first brick in the seat position to the full range wall ceramic tile, so the location of the first piece of ceramic tile must be chosen, if there is an error in the location of the first piece of ceramic tile, the ceramic tile of the entire wall will be warped.
5.Five, must achieve wall pressure ground
Wall pressure is above the floor tile of wall brick wanted, the advantage is not water, the water will flow down the wall brick in the wall and floor tile surface, easy to clean, because the more troublesome, so some bricklayer’s looking for a variety of reasons not willing to do, this is decorated must supervise bricklayer’s owner, let them do the project well.