Posts

How Selecting the Right Wood?

/in /by


Select a type of wood. Different species are of different levels of durability. In general, the harder the wood, the more durable the flooring is. That’s why you should look for harder species if you want your floors to last for years to come. It’s not uncommon for wood to change color over time. Although the changes are normally subtle, it’s worth keeping this in mind when deciding on a color for your flooring.


Choose plank size. There are plenty of available sizes, but it’s important to keep in mind both cost and design. Generally, the wider the planks are, the more expensive the flooring is. However, wider planks tend to make a room appear more luxurious. Take into account that seams get more pronounced with time.


If you think this could hurt the appearance of your home, consider investing in wider planks. Since they’re bigger, they automatically have fewer seams. Select a grain pattern. Plain-sawn wood is ideal for traditional interiors, with lines joining to form peaks known as cathedrals.


Rift-swan wood has straight lines that are fairly subtle, which makes it capable of fitting into any decor. Quarter-swan wood also has straight lines, but they’re much more eye-catching, which makes for excellent flooring choice for modern and rustic styles. Distressing is a finishing technique you can use to make the pattern on your flooring more prominent.


Work from one side of the other, pinning the panels with 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) galvanized siding nails placed in their pre-cut nailing slots. When you get to the end of the wall, start with the next row, allowing the new panels to overlap the first ones by 1 in (2.5 cm). Since distressing gives the wood a worn look, it’s normally used in vintage and rustic interiors.

The Knowledge of Tile Mist and Dry Cement

/in /by


Do any additional touch-ups required. Stand back and admire your work; it should appear as a marbled black and white checkered floor. Decorate your painted surface. Once your painted concrete floor has dried you can add your own personal touch. Apply a stencil design to your cement floor and paint on your desired pattern or style.


You can create your own stencil. Or you can check with your local paint store for stencils and designs to apply to your flooring. Have a helper on hand to hold the boards in place while you attach them to the walls. Spray another small section of the wall, completely soaking it before applying a layer of cement. Smooth out the cement before moving onto the next portion.


Keep doing this until your wall is coated in a single, perfect layer of fresh cement. If you make a mistake, scrape off the cement right away with a trowel or another tool. Cement is much easier to take care of before it hardens! Mist and dry the cement for 3 days. Get a big misting bottle and fill it with water.


Dampen the concrete twice a day for 3 days straight to ensure it cures correctly. After that, your wall is done and you can enjoy the strong but smooth finish the cement gives it. Cement can be painted over by coating it with a concrete primer. Another option is to mix colored concrete pigment into your wheelbarrow of wet cement to give it some color.


Add the stucco to the top of the wall, then spread it from left to right, repeating this as needed to finish the layer. The scratch coat is like a second base for the outer layer of stucco, so don’t skip it. Applying a large amount of stucco all at once is a recipe for an unappealing finish.

How Cutting Multiple Tiles before Toilet Installation?

/in /by

Score the cut lines with a tile scribe. A tile scribe is a small, sharp hand tool that etches a cut line into the tile. This etching helps make sure the tile snaps where you want it to instead of breaking or cracking elsewhere. The scoring only needs to be 0.125 in (0.32 cm) or so deep.


You can get a tile scribe at any hardware store or online. Use tile nippers to clip away the excess tile. Think of tile nippers as industrial-strength fingernail clippers. Start at the corner of the tile that’s being cut away, and squeeze the handles together to make the top and bottom blades take small “bites” out of the tile. Start “nibbling” more carefully as you approach the scored line.


Standard tile nippers will work with practically every kind of tile, although some natural stone tiles (like slate) may be too fragile. Consult your tile supplier if needed. You can also use specialty tile nippers for glass tiles or other particular types. Be careful not to nip one of your fingers while you work. Wear work gloves to protect your hands from cut tile edges and safety glasses to protect your eyes from snipped shards of tile.


Make sure your cuts are correct by dry-fitting the tiles. Because the toilet base will cover the cut tile edge, your cuts don’t need to be perfect. However, take the time to dry-fit the tiles in place to make sure your cuts are generally accurate—ideally, no more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) larger than the flange.


Use plastic spacers to account for your grout lines when dry-fitting the tiles. If you’re going to rest a removable toilet flange on top of the installed tiles, remember to remove it before dry-fitting (and later, when laying the tile!). If your dry-fit lines up properly, you’re ready to set these tiles in place in the same way you did the rest of the floor.

Commercial Polishing of Tiles

/in /by


For really stubborn grout, you can use a toothbrush to scrub it. For stains or darkened grout, sprinkle baking soda over the grout, then spray white vinegar over it. Let the baking soda and vinegar sit for 5 minutes, then scrub the grout with your toothbrush.


Mop the floor with warm water and 1 to 2 drops of dish soap. A little bit of dishwashing soap goes a long way. One to two drops is plenty for 1 gallon (3.8 L) of warm water. Dip your mop into the bucket and slosh it around a bit to get the water nice and sudsy. Then wring the mop into the bucket to remove any excess water.


Start at one part of the room and work your way across the entire floor, mopping in big sweeping motions. It’s best to use as little soap as possible when cleaning your tile because excess soap can leave a residue on the tile. Make sure the bucket is large enough to hold 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water without sloshing over the sides.


The bucket itself should be clean to start with as well. You don’t want to start by adding more dirt to your soapy water! When you are finished mopping, clean your mop by rinsing with clean water so that it doesn’t harden and build up dirt. Allow the tile floor to fully dry. When you have finished mopping the floor, empty the bucket and rinse out any residue to give your floor some time to dry.


It’s very important to let your tile dry completely before you do anything else to it. Wet tile will make it difficult to add any cleaning solutions or to buff the tile. Wait at least 1 hour to let your floor dry. You can use a fan in the room to help your floor dry quicker.

How Cleaning Solid Stone Tiles?

/in /by


Dry mop solid stone tiles every day or two. Dry mop your tiles every day or as soon as you notice dirt or debris. The dry dust mop will prevent sand and grit from rubbing against the tiles which can cause scratches. You should dry mop if your tiles are made of:Granite, Slate, Limestone, Marble, Sandstone.


Wash the tiles with soap and water. Fill a 5 US gal (19 L) bucket with water and a few squirts of mild dish soap or stone soap. Dip a mop into the soapy water and wring it out. Mop the tiles in small, overlapping circles to remove the dirt and prevent streaking.


Choose a soapstone with a pH level of 7 or try to find a soapless cleanser since it won’t leave streaks. If you’re using dish soap, choose one that’s phosphate-free and biodegradable.


Identify if you should use a bleach solution. To remove algae or moss, clean the tiles with a bleach solution. If your solid stone tiles are near a pool, patio, or hot tub, wash them off with clean water. Pour 2 gallons (7.6 L) of water into a bucket and stir in 4 tablespoons (59 ml) of bleach. Use a sponge or mop to wash the area with the mild bleach solution.


Rinse and dry the tiles. If you’re cleaning a large space, take a garden hose and rinse the tiles with clean water to remove any soap residue. If you’re cleaning a small area, you can dip the mop in clean water and wring it out. Mop over the tiles so they’re rinsed with the clean water. Wipe the tiles with a soft cloth until they’re dry and let them air dry completely.

How to Clean Tiles?

/in /by

Tiles are both stylish and practical. Unfortunately, over time, they can get greasy and dirty. To do a general floor clean, mop the tiles with water and a element tile cleaner. If your tile splashback has greasy marks on it, use soapy water to the oil splashes. Clean the grout between your tiles with baking soda and vinegar to remove discoloration. These methods are quick and easy, and will leave your tiles looking sparkling clean!

Sweep up any dust and dirt with a dustpan and brush. Use the brush to push any debris and dust into the dustpan. This avoids you spreading the dirt around the floor when you mop it later. If you don’t have a dustpan and brush, use a broom instead.

Mix water and tile cleaner in a bucket. Choose a tile cleaner that is designed for your type of wood marble tiles. For example, look for a commercial cleaner marketed as “ceramic-friendly” or “safe for stone floors.” Fill a mop bucket with water and add the tile cleaner, as directed on the back of the container.

Purchase tile cleaner from a cleaning store. Most tile cleaners require approximately 1 capful of tile cleaner per bucket of water. Avoid using citrus cleaners on stone as this can damage the wood tiles. Try not to use cleaners containing soap or detergent, as these can make your tile floors slippery. If you want to make your own wall tile cleaner, mix equal parts of vinegar and water in a bucket. This can be used on all types of tiles.

Wipe the cleaner over the tiles with a mop. Dip the mop into the bucket of water and tile cleaner, and then squeeze out any excess liquid to avoid drips. Push the mop back and forth over the entire area until the tiles are clean. Press the mop down firmly when cleaning any stained areas, as the tile cleaner and the pressure of the mop will help to remove the stains.

The Preparing Things for Install Ceramic Tile on Sub Floor

/in /by

Installing ceramic floor tile to a plywood sub-floor has unique challenges beyond that of installation on a concrete floor. Plywood or OSB (flakeboard) can expand and contract at too high a rate to be a stable foundation for tile. This will cause either the element tile itself to crack and even come loose, or cause the grout to crack inside the joints.

This could happen right away or within months of the installation. If done properly, a wall tiles design installation should last many years without cracking. This article will provide necessary tips to minimize issues with unstable subfloors.

Determine the maximum practical thickness that is possible for the combination of tile, underlayment and setting materials in your project. It is necessary to consider adjoining floors (e.g. carpet or wood), height of toe kicks (beneath cabinets) and even the aesthetics of the base molding where the walls meet the floor.

Example:     An adjoining wood floor may have 5/8 inch thick material (~16mm). If you use 1/2 inch underlayment and 3/8 inch rustic tile with 1/8 inch of setting material, your tile floor will have a total of 1 inch (~26mm) of thickness. This means that your finished floor will be 3/8 inch (10mm) taller that the adjoining wood floor. Transition strips may be available to accommodate this height difference, but you may be able to compensate with your underlayment by choosing 1/4 inch thick cement board instead.

Determine the stability of the subfloor. If you can feel the subfloor flex as you walk or bounce on it then you will need to use a thicker cement board. If it flexes too much you may want to consult a professional. Assuming the subfloor is relatively stable you may use a 1/4 thick cement board safely. If there is some flexing then you will need 1/2 inch concrete board.

How to Clean Ceramic Tile Grout?

/in /by

Grout, the mixture of water, sand, and cement that keeps common marble tiles in place, can be difficult to keep clean. Grout lines easily pick up dirt and stains, and before you know it they turn from white to black. Learn how to clean your grout so it’s sparkling white again and maintain it so you don’t have to clean it as often.

Keep the area ventilated. Mold and mildew often affect grout in bathrooms, which tend to stay wet and steamy for hours at a time. Use an exhaust fan after taking a shower or bath, and wipe up wet wall tiles design to keep your grout from getting moldy.

Apply grout sealer. Once a year, applying a commercial grout sealer can help prevent spills from quickly seeping into the pores in the grout, and it helps with bathroom tile mold and mildew. Choose a grout sealer from your hardware store and apply it according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Dye it a different color. Sometimes keeping grout white just isn’t practical. If you dye your hair, have kids who like to use paints in the kitchen, or just don’t want to deal with keeping it sparkling white, consider getting a grout stain and using it to dye the grout a different color. You can choose a color that matches your tile or something completely different for a contrasting effect.

Know when to replace your grout. Older grout starts to crack and crumble, and it gets worse as moisture seeps in and degrades the floor tile underneath over time. Replacing your grout when necessary is worth the trouble because it makes it easier to clean and prevents mold and mildew from taking hold as often.

How to Lay a Porcelain Tile Exterior Patio?

/in /by

When thinking about using porcelain tiles design outdoors there are a number of important considerations to take into account. Firstly, and very importantly, porcelain tiles have different grades and you will need to check that your chosen tiles are Grade 5 i.e. suitable for outdoor use. Check with the supplier or manufacturer if you are unsure and double check that they are suitable for extremes of weather if that is relevant to where you live.

Use a bonded cement/sand screed to level the concrete substrate if necessary. To avoid problems with the screed shrinking (and causing the spots tiles to crack), allow it to dry out for 1 to 2 weeks. For minor surface irregularities simply use a levelling compound.

 

Ensure the surface that you are laying the porcelain tiles on is as level as possible, clean and dry, and remove any loose particles. Select a “thin bed” adhesive for very flat surfaces with level differences of no more than 6mm. Otherwise select a “thick bed” adhesive. Always press the porcelain tiles firmly in place to avoid any air pockets forming underneath.

Remove any excess adhesive from the wall tiles design surface immediately as it is difficult to clean off once dry. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least a day (longer in very cold weather) and protect from rain during the drying period if necessary.

Once the adhesive is dry you can then apply the grout between the wood tiles; the type you choose is important because some grouts are only suitable for narrow joints but others for wide joints up to 20mm. Press the grouting well down into the joints so that no air pockets are created and remove the excess with a damp cloth. Again, leave to dry for at least a day, covering if it starts to rain.

The Knowledge of Tile Installation Mistakes?

/in /by

Create a strong bond. Since the surface of glass is very smooth, it’s important that the setting materials have a strong bond. Materials with a high polymer content have a high bond strength, ensuring that the glass maintains its spot in the installation.

Flip the tile so it’s face-up and guide it slowly through the saw. Make sure the finished side of your wall tiles design is face up for the remainder of your cut. Start from the side of your mark that hasn’t been cut yet. Slowly push the kitchen tile forward to feed it through the saw. Once the tile is cut, turn your saw off before removing the tile from your work surface. If you’re cutting a narrow piece of tile, use a wooden guide to hold the element tile from the other side. This way, the smaller piece won’t break or kick back.

Another installation concern is the glass-making method: small, boutique glass tile makers may not manufacture their products to meet industry standards due to surface treatments or wood marble tile backings. Metallic and painted backings will not bond well to cement-based mortars and may come loose. Similarly, mesh backing can trap water beneath the rustic tile, weakening the bond or creating mold. Make sure to create a mock-up to test the tile installation materials before proceeding with the full-scale project.

Protect glass tile installations from temperature variance. Glass tile installations occasionally fail as a result of exposure to sunlight or other forms of heat. Glass tile and cement setting materials expand and absorb heat at different rates, which can lead to cracks in the finished surface. Once again, the polymers in the mortar will help to absorb some movement, but silicone caulk should also be used to create movement joints that can handle the flexing tiles.