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How Attaching Your marble tiles?

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Install your kitchen sink if necessary. If you had to remove your kitchen sink when removing your old marble tiles, be sure to reinstall it before adding the new material. Start by following manufacturer’s directions to install the faucet followed by detergent and dispenser mounts. Now, attach the sink, supply lines, and drain pipes.


Always apply a ribbon of plumber’s putty before installing the faucet and sprayer bases. Use caulk to attach the sink rim to its opening. Seal the drain and tailpipe with caulk or with a gasket—whichever the manufacturer recommends. Be sure to turn your water on and check for leaks before installing your marble tiles.


Stick painter’s tape to the top edges of the cabinets for protection. Try to cover at least the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the cabinets, although the more the better. This will ensure that no silicone adhesive touches their faces. Purchase painter’s tape from any home hardware store or online supplier.


Install ledgers in areas of low cabinet support. While marble tiles can be placed directly on top of cabinets, their weight shouldn’t be underestimated. Take a look at your tiles design and look for areas that have the least amount of cabinet support. Now, install 1 to 2 inch (2.5 to 5.1 cm) ledgers into the walls on the sides of the cabinets to add support.


Attach each ledger using an electric drill and the screws provided. Purchase ledgers from home hardware stores. Be sure to take measurements of the areas that need ledgers before purchasing any. Apply silicone adhesive beads to the top of the cabinets. Start by applying a 2 to 3 inch (5.1 to 7.6 cm) thick bead of adhesive to a corner and then working your way around the top of each cabinet.

How Removing Deep Stains?

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Mix 1 part baking soda with three parts water. Combine the baking soda with the water in a small bowl or cup. Continue to mix it together until the baking soda absorbs the water and forms a paste. If your paste is too thick, add more water to it. If the paste is too runny, add more baking soda.


Apply the paste to the stains. Wear gloves and use your hands to smear a good portion of the paste over the stains on your shower. Target any discoloration or built up mildew that you weren’t able to remove from a basic cleaning. Cover the paste with plastic wrap. Tape the ends of the plastic wrap so it stays in place. Don’t cover all the edges in tape so that the marble tiles can breathe.


Let the paste sit on your shower for 24 hours. The paste will dry and absorb the stain under it. When the paste is ready, it should be dry and hard. Remind people in the house that you are doing a deep cleaning and that they won’t be able to use the shower. Rinse and wipe down the baking soda.


Remove the baking soda paste from your shower by rinsing down your shower and wiping the stained areas with a rag. If you notice that the stain is still visible, repeat the steps until it is fully removed. Dry the shower. Use an absorbent rag or squeegee to dry off your shower completely.


You should dry down your shower after every use, but doing a more extensive cleaning with a mild dish soap and water two to three times a week should keep the marble tiles looking clean and fresh. Rinse the shower. Use a showerhead or a bucket of water to rinse the entirety of the shower down, including the walls. It’s important that you remove any leftover soap or it may sink into the marble tiles and create stains later.

How Removing Tough Stains?

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Use an enzymatic cleaner on pet stains. If you have stains from pets or other animals on your concrete, try an enzymatic cleaner like OxiClean. These types of cleaners target and help to break down protein in stains. You should apply these types of cleaners directly to the stain without diluting them with any liquid and then let them soak into the stain.


However, it can take up to a few days for these types of cleaners to break down the stains on your concrete. Use an oil-based cleaner on non-washable crayon stains. Oil-based cleaners like Goo-Gone and WD-40 are great for stains made by non-washable crayons. Spread on the cleaner and let it soak before scrubbing at it with a short, stiff-bristled brush. Then rinse with water.


Try laundry detergent on grease stains. If you have concrete stains made by grease, laundry detergent can help remove them. Make a paste of powdered laundry detergent and water for grease stains. Apply the paste to the stain, cover it tightly with plastic wrap (you can tape the edges to your concrete surface), and let it soak for 24 hours. Then scrub and rinse.


Sprinkle kitty litter over oil stains. For oil stained concrete, cover the affected area with a clay kitty litter and grind it in with your feet while you’re wearing old shoes. Let it sit for up to 24 hours and then sweep up the kitty litter and rinse it away. This might take a few rounds, depending on the size of the stains you cleaned and how much cleanser you had to use.


You can let the area dry naturally, particularly if you’re cleaning on a hot day. Make sure that you hose off any plants or planting beds that are around the concrete patio and may have been sprayed with cleaner. Use a degreasing agent for oil, grease, or hydrocarbon stains. Alkaline cleaners, which are also called degreasers, can help you remove stains caused by oil, grease, or hydrocarbons.

How Mixing Homemade Solutions?

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Make a baking soda and bleach paste. If you want to remove stains that have developed over a season or so (for example, after leaves have been collecting on your concrete throughout the fall), mix up a standard concrete cleaner using three parts baking soda and two parts bleach. The consistency of the paste should be like pea soup – thin enough to pour on your concrete but thick enough that it won’t just run off.


Make a vinegar and baking soda paste. If you’re looking for a more environmentally-safe cleaner, try mixing up vinegar and baking soda. The exact amounts of vinegar to baking soda don’t matter as much as the consistency. It should have a paste-like consistency. Start by pouring some white distilled vinegar into a bucket or bowl and then slowly add baking soda.


The mixture will foam up, so add the baking soda slowly so you it doesn’t overflow. Give the bubbles some time to deflate so you can see what your consistency looks like before adding more baking soda. Make a vinegar and water solution. For smaller stained areas, you might want to try a vinegar, water, and salt solution that you can mix together in a spray bottle.


This allows you to be more targeted in the application of the cleaner and prevents it from seeping to places you don’t want it to go – like flower beds or the lawn. Use equal parts white distilled vinegar and warm water, then add a pinch or two of salt. Let this solution soak into your concrete for about twenty minutes.


There isn’t much extra work needed to fit the panels together. The manufacturer cuts them into shapes meant to fit together. The only exception is when you need to trim the stone to fit along the edges of your wall, which you can do with a diamond blade. Spread a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) mortar layer on the stone veneer.

Applying a Peel-and-Stick Tile Backsplash

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Gather your supplies. You will need to have your peel-and-stick tiles prepared, a tile cutter or utility knife, and level. Pretty basic, huh? If you tiles are not stuck together on sheets, you may also need spacers to make sure they are all evenly spread. Clean your walls. The sticky backings of your tiles can’t adhere to walls if they are dusty or greasy.


Use a damp rag to completely wipe down walls, and then let them dry completely. Measure your space. It is important to make sure you get a good measurement so you know exactly what size you should cut your tiles. Choose a stopping point, either directly below your cabinets or at an arbitrary point on the wall.


Make sure that you have enough tiles to fill the measured space, as well as a few extras for precaution. Use a level and straight edge to mark your stopping point along the wall. Stick your tiles to the wall. Peel the backing off the tiles, and stick them to your desired location. Always start from the bottom center of the wall and work your way out.


Firmly press the tiles each time you stick them to the wall, to make sure they are firmly adhered. Hold a straight edge or level to the sides of your tile as your press, to make sure that they don’t shift out of alignment. Finish attaching tiles. Work your way across the wall, until the entirety of your desired space is filled up. Cut any pieces to fit outlet holes or edges and corners before you attach them to the wall.


Enjoy your new tile backsplash. To keep it looking its best, wipe the backsplash clean with water or a generic kitchen cleaner occasionally. Enjoy your new tile backsplash! Once you have completed all the installation steps, managing your new backsplash is easy. Wipe it down occasionally with a generic kitchen or glass cleaner to keep your backsplash looking its best.

How to Plan Tile Layout?

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If you’re thinking about installing a tile floor in your home, it’s important to take the time to figure out the best way to arrange the individual tiles. In most rooms, square and rectangular tiles will fit together in a simple grid pattern. First, establish a series of layout lines to serve as a placement guide by finding the midpoint of each wall and drawing a line across to the opposing wall.

From there, you can begin dry-fitting the tiles around the room’s center point, working your way outward in manageable sections to avoid uneven spacing. Mark the midpoint of each wall. Divide the total length of the walls in half, then draw a small notch or dot on the floor at this spot using a carpenter’s pencil.

Aligning the midpoints of each wall will help you find the room’s center. For a wall that’s 16 feet (4.9 m) long, for instance, you would make your mark at 8 feet (2.4 m). If the room you’re measuring is perfectly square, you can go ahead and draw a line straight across to the opposite wall save time.

Draw a line connecting the midpoints of both walls. To ensure that the line is straight, run the tip of your pencil along the edge of a yardstick or straight edge, using a framing square to ensure a precise 90-degree angle. Slide your yardstick down and double-check its orientation every few feet to keep the line from becoming crooked.

You can also use a chalk line tool for greater efficiency and exactness. Simply extend the retractable wire between the 2 walls, then pull up and release the wire quickly to leave behind a perfectly straight line of chalk. Repeat the process on the room’s shorter walls. Measure the length of the remaining pair of walls, then mark the midpoint of each. Draw a line connecting the opposing midpoints through the center of the room.

Commercial Polishing of Tiles

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For really stubborn grout, you can use a toothbrush to scrub it. For stains or darkened grout, sprinkle baking soda over the grout, then spray white vinegar over it. Let the baking soda and vinegar sit for 5 minutes, then scrub the grout with your toothbrush.


Mop the floor with warm water and 1 to 2 drops of dish soap. A little bit of dishwashing soap goes a long way. One to two drops is plenty for 1 gallon (3.8 L) of warm water. Dip your mop into the bucket and slosh it around a bit to get the water nice and sudsy. Then wring the mop into the bucket to remove any excess water.


Start at one part of the room and work your way across the entire floor, mopping in big sweeping motions. It’s best to use as little soap as possible when cleaning your tile because excess soap can leave a residue on the tile. Make sure the bucket is large enough to hold 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water without sloshing over the sides.


The bucket itself should be clean to start with as well. You don’t want to start by adding more dirt to your soapy water! When you are finished mopping, clean your mop by rinsing with clean water so that it doesn’t harden and build up dirt. Allow the tile floor to fully dry. When you have finished mopping the floor, empty the bucket and rinse out any residue to give your floor some time to dry.


It’s very important to let your tile dry completely before you do anything else to it. Wet tile will make it difficult to add any cleaning solutions or to buff the tile. Wait at least 1 hour to let your floor dry. You can use a fan in the room to help your floor dry quicker.

How Cleaning Wood and Composite Tiles?

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Sweep the wood or composite tiles every few days. Try to sweep your tiles every day or as soon as you notice dirt, leaves, or grime. Use a soft, natural bristle broom to remove the debris that’s on the tiles. Regular sweeping will prevent your tiles from becoming caked with dirt or stained.


Wash the tiles with soap and water at least once a month. Fill a 5 US gal (19 L) bucket with water and a few squirts of mild dish soap. The water should be soapy and bubbly. Dip a mop into the soapy water and wring it out. Mop the tiles until you’ve removed the dirt. You can use a string mop or sponge head mop. Just avoid using a scratchy or abrasive mop on the tiles.


Rinse the tiles. If you’re cleaning a large space, take a garden hose and rinse the tiles with clean water to remove any soap residue. If you’re cleaning a small area, you can dip the mop in clean water and wring it out. Mop over the tiles so they’re rinsed with the clean water.


Remove any grease stains. As soon as you notice an oily stain, wipe up whatever caused it. Dip a sponge or soft cloth into soapy water and wash the stain. This might remove the stain on its own. If not, use a deck stain remover that’s specifically made for wood or composite tiles. You’ll need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. The longer the stain sits on the tile, the harder it will be to remove. That’s why it’s important to clean up the stain quickly.


Deep clean your tiles twice a year. In addition to keeping your wood and composite tiles swept and clean, you should try to deep clean the tiles in the spring and fall. Buy a tile cleaner developed for wood or composite. It should contain sodium hypochlorite. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Sodium hypochlorite will prevent mold and mildew from growing on your tiles.

How Cleaning Grout with Vinegar and Baking Soda?

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Mix 1  c (240 mL) of vinegar and 1  c (240 mL) of water in a spray bottle. Measure the vinegar and water into a spray bottle. Screw the lid on tightly and then shake the spray bottle vigorously for 5 seconds to combine the water and vinegar.

Malt vinegar and white vinegar both work well for this method. This method works on all types of tiles and surfaces, such as flooring, backsplashes, or countertops. Spray the solution liberally over the grout and let it sit for 5 minutes. Ensure that all the grout is coated with the water and vinegar spray. Leave it for 5 minutes to soak into the grout.

Mix 1 cup (180 g) of baking soda and ½ cup (125 mL) of water in a bowl. Measure the baking soda and water into a small bowl. Use a spoon to stir them together until they are fully combined and form a paste. If you are cleaning a very small area, halve this recipe.

Scrub the paste into the grout with a grout brush. A grout brush is a thin brush that is designed to easily remove the dirt from between tiles. Dip the brush into the baking soda paste and then scrub it over the tiles until all the dirt is gone. Use a scrubbing brush or a toothbrush if you don’t have a grout brush.

Spray the vinegar solution over the areas that you have scrubbed. The vinegar will mix with the baking soda paste and start bubbling vigorously. This chemical reaction helps to dissolve any remaining dirt and grime from the grout. Spray enough vinegar solution to completely cover the baking soda paste.

Use warm water and a dishcloth to wipe up the baking soda and vinegar. Dip a clean dishcloth in water and then squeeze it to remove any excess water. Wipe up all the baking soda and vinegar paste from the grout. Rinse your cloth after each wipe to avoid spreading the baking soda over the glazed rustic tiles. This also helps to remove the vinegar smell from the grout.

How to Mop Ceramic Tile?

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Ceramic tile floors are sturdy and relatively low-maintenance. With just a little attention to detail, you can keep your tile floor looking new. Find out how to easily and effectively mop your ceramic tile floor after the jump. Sweep or vacuum your tile floor to remove any loose dirt, pet hair or other debris. Dilute your household cleaner according to the directions using a bucket and warm water. Submerge your mop into the bucket of soapy water until it is saturated.

Wring the mop well to remove excess water. If the bucket you’re using has a wringer on it, this is the preferred method of extracting the excess water. Some mops, especially those with cloth strips, have a wringer attached and these work just as well. If you don’t have either of these, you can simply use your hands to wring the mop.

Mop the tile in small sections, being careful not to walk over the wet areas. The grout is very porous and tends to hold more dirt than the tiles. Pay close attention to the grout when mopping your tile floor to be sure you’re covering the grouted parts well.

Immerse the mop into the soapy water after mopping each section of tile. Remove the excess water again by wringing the mop. Repeat these steps until the entire floor is clean. Allow the floor to dry completely. Speed up the drying process by opening windows and/or turning on fans in the room, if possible.

Rinse both the mop and bucket thoroughly. Add clean water to the bucket. Dip the mop into the clean water. Squeeze any excess water from the mop. Mop the floor again, following the same steps, but using only the clean water this time. Mopping the floor with clean water removes any build-up that may be left behind by the cleaning solution. The floor stays cleaner longer and helps reduce slipping. Allow the floor to dry completely.