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How Scraping off the Adhesive?

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Sweep up the broken pieces of tile on the ground. Once you’ve detached the tiles from the floor, you’ll likely be left with smaller broken pieces scattered around. Use a broom and dustpan to collect these broken pieces and throw them away. Keep your safety attire on for this step so that you don’t cut your hands or injure yourself. If necessary, you can vacuum up the dust and smaller pieces.

Hit the chisel with the mallet to scrape off the adhesive. You’ll likely have leftover grout or glue that needs to be removed. This should come off the same way the tiles were removed by positioning a chisel or hand maul against the grout and scraping it off with the help of the mallet. Depending on the size of your floor, you may want to use a bigger chisel to reach a wider surface area at once.

Leave a super thin layer of the adhesive, if necessary. If you can’t remove all of the grout or glue, that’s okay. Use the chisel or hand maul to remove as much of it as possible, leaving just a thin layer (no more than 0.125 in (0.32 cm)) on the floor that can be filled in and covered up easily.

Remove any remaining dust using a vacuum. Use a Shop Vac or similar vacuum to pick up any extra pieces of tile, grout, or dust from the floor and surrounding surfaces. Go slowly when vacuuming to ensure you get everything.

 

Apply thin-set mortar to the floor to make it level. Thin-set mortar will help fill in the holes and uneven surfaces of the floor so that the removal of the tile and grout no longer looks bad. Apply a 0.125 in (0.32 cm) layer of thin-set mortar with a flat or square-notched trowel depending on whether you’ll be re-tiling the floor. Follow the directions to mix the mortar properly before applying it. A square-notched trowel is helpful in making grooves in the mortar so that you can easily place new porcelain  tile.

How to Reglaze Tile?

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Reglazing your tile technically requires removing each wood tile and sending it back to the kiln. Luckily, refinishing your tile with epoxy paint gives you that finished look with a do-it-yourself approach. Start by getting a quality tundla tile refinishing kit and following the enclosed directions. Get the area ready for painting by replacing any damaged marble tiles and cleaning it well. Then, apply primer and a double-coat of the epoxy paint. Wait a few days for it to cure and you can enjoy your new looking tile.

Remove the grout, if desired. If your grout is cracking, falling apart, or extremely moldy, then go ahead and chisel it out before moving forward. Use a flat head screwdriver, small hammer, and utility knife to apply pressure to the caulk beads. They may peel right up or you may need to gradually chip them away with the knife. Always keep your hands away from the knife’s path and go slowly.

This step can get pretty messy, so keep a vacuum close by to suck up the dust and debris. Use a mix of muriatic acid and water to loosen the grout. Only use the acid if you are working in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask and gloves while handling it.

You’ll want to replace the grout either before painting or after the epoxy paint has cured. It is really your choice. Grout covered with epoxy paint will be uniform and easier to clean. But, some people like the look of grout lines.

Clean the cement tiles thoroughly. Your kit will likely come with specific cleaning instructions. It might ask you to mix together an enclosed powder with water and then scrub it on the ceramic tile. If instructions are not provided, clean the tiles with bleach, a powdered cleaner (such as Comet), and a rust and lime remover. After each cleaner application, do a full rinse with water.