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The Knowledge of Tiling Tiles

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Scratch the stucco 5 to 10 minutes after applying it. Waiting allows the scratch coat to solidify it a little bit so you don’t accidentally end up scratching the wall underneath it. When you’re ready, get a tool called a scarifier, which looks like a handheld rake or comb. Rake it horizontally across the entire wall to scratch lines into the stucco. A scratch coat is a rough initial layer. You create scratch marks on it to create a base for the final layer to bond to, leading to a stronger wall covering.


The scratch marks don’t have to be perfectly horizontal or even. Simply drag the tool across the wall a few times. As long as you have marks along the entire wall, you can create a much stronger finish. If you don’t have a scarifier available, use the edge of a trowel or another tool. Make the scratches about 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) deep.


Dry the stucco for 2 days, misting it twice a day. Leave the stucco exposed to harden in open air. Keep it wet by spraying it with water from a misting bottle each morning and afternoon. If you let the stucco dry out before it finishes curing, it may weaken and crack. Stucco is similar to concrete and needs to be treated the same way. Always let the first layer cure before applying a second one.


Apply a second layer of stucco and let it dry. Finish the wall cover by repeating the process with another 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) layer. This time, instead of scratching the stucco, use the trowel to create whatever finished design you want. When you’re finished, mist it and dry it for at least 2 days.


For example, some designers sweep a trowel across the stucco to give it an uneven, ridged design. You could also use a scarifier to give it a scratched design or leave it flat if you wish. If you wish to use concrete pigment, don’t forget to mix it in with the fresh batch of stucco. Otherwise, you can apply wall paint to the stucco after it finishes drying.

How Removing the Old Tiles Instead?

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Pry up the existing tiles. Place a chisel at the edge of the element tile at an angle. Hit the back of the chisel with a hammer slowly and continue until the tile begins to break apart. Continue as you move across the entire floor. Throw the broken tile pieces into a wastebasket.

Another option is to simply hit each tile in the center with a sledgehammer. This will create more pieces, but can be a quick way to pull up a floor. Wearing a mask can protect you from any small dust particles kicked into the air as you pull up the subway tiles. It’s also a good idea to wear long pants and sleeves to protect your arms and legs from scrapes or cuts. Protect your knees when removing or laying only tile by wearing pads or padded pants.

Scrub the floor with a stripper. Use a floor stripping solution purchased from your local hardware or home improvement store. Apply the stripper to the floor as directed. Wait until it takes full effect and then use an abrasive scouring pad to scrub loose any stuck on debris or glue. Keep going until the floor is fairly smooth to the touch

Inspect and repair the subfloor. Once you’ve removed the spots tiles and any associated grime, take a close look at your floor with a work light. If the floor is wood, see if there are any areas that are rotten or warped. You’ll need to replace these spots with fresh wood. If the concrete subfloor is slightly cracked, sand it down with an abrasive pad.

Replacing any damaged wood sections is a great way to prevent a future mold problem, especially in bathrooms or kitchens. Just make sure that you address the cause of any leaks as well.