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How Tackling Tough Interior Stains?


Blot up spills right away. Use a clean, dry towel to pick up any spills on your sandstone tiles. Be sure to dab and blot the area instead of wiping it. Wiping the spill around can create a larger stain by moving the food or liquid around the area. Most liquids can stain your sandstone tiles but some that are particularly bad include wine, fruit juices, and coffee.


Avoid the use of cleaners that contain harsh chemicals and abrasives. sandstone tiles is a very porous stone and it can be discolored and damaged by a wide variety of cleaning products. In particular, acidic cleaners can discolor the surface permanently. Tip: sandstone tiles is prone to discoloration and it can’t be cleaned with the common cleaners you use in other parts of your house.


Thus, if you are looking for a surface for your tiles or flooring that is strong and can take a beating, sandstone tiles is not for you. Make a baking soda paste if plain water can’t get a spot off. It’s easy to make a great alkaline sandstone tiles cleaner by mixing up a paste of baking soda and water. Put a couple of tablespoons of baking soda in a small bowl and mix in a few drops of water.


Stir the mixture with a spoon and keep adding water until the mixture is a thick paste. You can also buy specific natural stone-cleaning products online or at many home improvement and hardware stores. However, a simple baking soda paste is likely to work just as well. Apply the paste to the stain and scrub it with a soft-bristled brush.


Smear the paste onto the stain on the stone with the spoon you used for mixing. Let it sit on the surface for about 15 minutes. Then scrub the surface with a soft brush. You can use a variety of types of brushes, including a home cleaning brush, a nail brush or an old toothbrush. Wipe the paste off with a clean, damp cloth.

How Attaching Your marble tiles?

Install your kitchen sink if necessary. If you had to remove your kitchen sink when removing your old marble tiles, be sure to reinstall it before adding the new material. Start by following manufacturer’s directions to install the faucet followed by detergent and dispenser mounts. Now, attach the sink, supply lines, and drain pipes.


Always apply a ribbon of plumber’s putty before installing the faucet and sprayer bases. Use caulk to attach the sink rim to its opening. Seal the drain and tailpipe with caulk or with a gasket—whichever the manufacturer recommends. Be sure to turn your water on and check for leaks before installing your marble tiles.


Stick painter’s tape to the top edges of the cabinets for protection. Try to cover at least the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the cabinets, although the more the better. This will ensure that no silicone adhesive touches their faces. Purchase painter’s tape from any home hardware store or online supplier.


Install ledgers in areas of low cabinet support. While marble tiles can be placed directly on top of cabinets, their weight shouldn’t be underestimated. Take a look at your tiles design and look for areas that have the least amount of cabinet support. Now, install 1 to 2 inch (2.5 to 5.1 cm) ledgers into the walls on the sides of the cabinets to add support.


Attach each ledger using an electric drill and the screws provided. Purchase ledgers from home hardware stores. Be sure to take measurements of the areas that need ledgers before purchasing any. Apply silicone adhesive beads to the top of the cabinets. Start by applying a 2 to 3 inch (5.1 to 7.6 cm) thick bead of adhesive to a corner and then working your way around the top of each cabinet.

How Eliminating Heavy Stains?


Treat dark colored stains with hydrogen peroxide. Soak a clean, soft rag with hydrogen peroxide. Wring excess peroxide out of the rag over your sink. Position the rag so its peroxide dampened parts directly touch and cover the stain. Keep the rag on the stain for several hours or overnight. Avoid using this technique if your marble tiles is dark colored. Hydrogen peroxide on dark colors can lead to lightening.


Less serious stains may only need 15 minutes to a half hour of time before the stain can be wiped away. Check less serious stains at regular intervals for this reason. If, at a glance, you can tell the stain you are working on will require heavy-duty techniques, you may want to skip the peroxide treatment and move straight to mixing a heavy-duty cleaning solution.


Rinse the treated area with cold water. Fill a cup or small bucket with cold water. Pour water onto the treated area of the marble tiles. Use a clean, dry, soft cloth to wipe up standing water and any dirtiness. Heavy-duty stains may remain after cleaning the surface with peroxide, in which case you’ll need to mix a heavy-duty cleaning solution.


Mix a heavy-duty cleaning solution for remaining stains. In a medium sized bucket, combine ¼ cup (59 ml) baking soda, ¼ cup vinegar, ½ cup (118 ml) ammonia, and 8 cups (1.9 L) of hot water. Agitate the mixture with a kitchen implement, like a spoon, until the ingredients are consistently blended. The mixture will foam slightly.


As an alternative to heavy-duty cleaners, you can use paint-thinner or denatured alcohol to remove the stain. However, always test these cleaners in an inconspicuous place on your cultured marble tiles first, as they may damage the surface. Although this cleaning solution is made with household products, it can be harsh on your skin. Wear gloves when using this solution to prevent dry skin and irritation.

How Installing Stone Veneer?

Clean the wall to remove debris and stains. Rinse the wall off with a hose, then sweep away remaining dust and debris with a concrete brush. Spray off stubborn stains with a pressure washer. Strip away any paint on the wall with a pressure washer as well. Another way to remove tough stains is by attaching a wire brush to a right-angle grinder. Use the brush to scrub off the stains.


Apply a concrete bonding agent to the cleaned wall. Dip a 3 in (7.6 cm) paintbrush into the liquid bonding agent and use it to coat the wall from top to bottom. Keep the layer as smooth as possible to ensure the veneer fits evenly on the wall. You can get bonding agents, along with any other tool you need, online or at most home improvement stores.


Combine a veneer mortar mix with water in a wheelbarrow. Prepare the mix according to the manufacturer’s instructions to get it to a firm, spreadable consistency. If you don’t wish to use a store-bought mix, try making your own instead out of masonry cement and sand. Using a pre-made mix is much simpler and faster, however.


Make your own mix by combining 1 part masonry cement with 3 parts masonry sand. Put an acrylic polymer in a separate container to mix with water according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Combine all of the ingredients in your wheelbarrow to finish the mortar.


Coat the wall with a 1⁄2 in (1.3 cm) layer of mortar. Try using a hawk to scoop the mortar out of the wheelbarrow and then transfer it to the wall with a trowel. Using both tools together makes the process much faster. Apply the stucco to the top of the wall and spread it from left to right with a single motion of the trowel. Continue doing this to add more mortar as needed to cover the wall and smooth out the layer until it appears uniform.

How Preventing Gaps in Laminate Flooring?


Allow your laminate flooring to acclimate for 48-72 hours. Bring the planks inside and leave them to sit undisturbed prior to installation. This will give the material a chance to get used to the unique conditions in your home, which can help you avoid many environment-related complications later on.


Fluctuations in temperature and humidity can cause certain types of laminate flooring to swell and shrink slightly. Over time, this can result in noticeable gaps and other inconsistencies. Storing your laminate flooring materials in your garage, basement, or foyer also keeps them from being exposed to the elements.

Make sure the subflooring is perfectly level. Use a level to check the angle of your subfloor every 2–3 feet (0.61–0.91 m). If there are rises or depressions present, your laminate planks won’t sit correctly, no matter how many times you reposition them. Subfloors that are off alignment will need to be smoothed out using leveling compound.


If you plan on adding a separate underlayment for insulation, it will be important to make sure it’s cut properly to eliminate wrinkling, folding, or bunching, all of which could contribute to an off-level subfloor.


Have your laminate flooring installed professionally. Attempting to measure, cut, and install laminate flooring yourself leaves a lot of room for error, even if you have experience with this type of project. In most cases, it will be better to leave it to the pros. They’ll have the equipment, expertise, and manpower needed to get the job done faster and with more lasting results.

How Buffing Your Floor by Hand?

Start in the far corner of the room. Then, work your way backward toward the entrance to the room. Don’t pass back over areas you’ve already buffed, as they need time to dry. Work in 3 ft (0.91 m) by 3 ft (0.91 m) sections until you finish buffing. Focusing on small sections will help you achieve better results. Plus, it will keep you from getting overwhelmed during the process.


If you don’t like the results of your first few sections, you might decide to stop hand buffing the floor and switch to a machine. Some floors won’t show much improvement from hand buffing. Depending on the size of your room, it can take a while to finish buffing. It’s a good idea to take regular breaks, if necessary.


Spray a buffing solution onto your floor for extra shine. When you’re buffing by hand, spray the solution onto just the area where you’re working so the solution won’t be dry by the time you get across the room. It’s best to use a bottle with a spray nozzle to evenly distribute the solution.


If your solution doesn’t have a spray nozzle, use a clean cloth to wipe it onto the floor. Make sure you choose a buffing solution that’s formulated for your type of flooring material. If you prefer a natural option, create a white vinegar solution by adding 1 cup (240 mL) of white vinegar to 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. Put the solution into a spray bottle, then spritz it onto your floor.


Use a microfiber cloth to buff the floor using tight, circular motions. Move your cloth slowly from side to side as you work each section. When you complete each pass, start the next one with some overlap with the previous pass. As you buff, apply as much pressure to the cloth as you can.

How Choosing Pool Tile by Style?

Use larger tile for easier upkeep. Save time cleaning your pool tile by having a larger tile finish, which has fewer seams that can collect dirty buildup. Go with smaller tile to create a captivating design. Add dimension to your pool by using smaller tile, which makes pool designs look more intricate.

Creating a mosaic or tile image is easier to do with small tile than with larger tile. Opt for blue tile for a classic swimming pool look. Incorporate multiple hues of blue into your design to add depth to your pool and make it more interesting. Use one shade of blue for a clean, uniform appearance.

Match your tile color with a color from your home for a unique pool design. Use red tile to complement the red brick on your house, or go with a green tile that blends with the surrounding landscape. Using a tile color other than blue will immediately make your pool stand out.

Mark the last tile in each row to indicate where to cut it if needed. As you near the edges of the room, you may find that you don’t have enough space to set the final tile. When this happens, you’ll need to cut your end tiles to ensure a proper fit. Measure the distance between the last full tile you laid down and the wall and mark this measurement on the end tile. You can cut the tile later using a masonry saw.

If the space left over at the end of a row is especially narrow, pick up the rest of the tiles in the row and shift them down half a tile’s length towards the opposite wall. Adjust your other rows accordingly. That way, you’ll have a larger partial tile at either end rather than a tiny sliver visible along only 1 wall.

How Laying the Tiles?


Mark your tile layout on the substrate and mark out your first course carefully. If your shower enclosure walls are not perfectly square, or if you plan to install accent tiles, the layout of these tiles becomes increasingly important. Measure up from the bottom of the backer board the height of a tile minus 1/2″. This will give you a 1/2″ overlap over the tile lip on your shower pan.


Make sure that you allow room for the grout joints as well. Mark this with a sharpie or chalk and using a level, transfer the mark across the shower stall. This will be a guide for the top of the first row so that all tiles will be level. Only use dry tiles make sure that the lay out works as well.


Another way to plan out the first row of tiles is to measure the high part and low part of the shower pan. Make the cut spot on the low end a full tile, mark it, and then cut the tiles on the high side down to the level of the uncut tile on the low side. Keeping grout lines away from the inside corners of the enclosure can prevent the need for tiny tiles and poor grout joints. Plan accordingly and always make cuts tight on the inside corner.


Mix enough thin-set for the bottom row. You want your thin-set to be the consistency of peanut butter — not too thick or it will dry out and not too thin or you’ll have a hard time setting the mortar with strength and cleaning. Use an electric drill and a mortar mixing bit attached to your drill to mix your thin-set mortar. This will ensure even consistency and ultimately a better product. Let the mortar set for seven minutes and then mix it again.


Dampen the cement board with a sponge before applying the mortar. If you do not, the cement board will draw the moisture out of the thin-set too quickly, making for a brittle set that is susceptible to cracking.

How Cleaning Wood and Composite Tiles?


Sweep the wood or composite tiles every few days. Try to sweep your tiles every day or as soon as you notice dirt, leaves, or grime. Use a soft, natural bristle broom to remove the debris that’s on the tiles. Regular sweeping will prevent your tiles from becoming caked with dirt or stained.


Wash the tiles with soap and water at least once a month. Fill a 5 US gal (19 L) bucket with water and a few squirts of mild dish soap. The water should be soapy and bubbly. Dip a mop into the soapy water and wring it out. Mop the tiles until you’ve removed the dirt. You can use a string mop or sponge head mop. Just avoid using a scratchy or abrasive mop on the tiles.


Rinse the tiles. If you’re cleaning a large space, take a garden hose and rinse the tiles with clean water to remove any soap residue. If you’re cleaning a small area, you can dip the mop in clean water and wring it out. Mop over the tiles so they’re rinsed with the clean water.


Remove any grease stains. As soon as you notice an oily stain, wipe up whatever caused it. Dip a sponge or soft cloth into soapy water and wash the stain. This might remove the stain on its own. If not, use a deck stain remover that’s specifically made for wood or composite tiles. You’ll need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. The longer the stain sits on the tile, the harder it will be to remove. That’s why it’s important to clean up the stain quickly.


Deep clean your tiles twice a year. In addition to keeping your wood and composite tiles swept and clean, you should try to deep clean the tiles in the spring and fall. Buy a tile cleaner developed for wood or composite. It should contain sodium hypochlorite. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Sodium hypochlorite will prevent mold and mildew from growing on your tiles.

How Cleaning Unpolished/Unglazed Porcelain Tiles?

Use a dry dust mop to sweep the floor. Start by removing any dirt and dust on the surface of the floor. You should use a dry dust mop instead of a broom, as the broom could scratch the tiles. Make sure you use the dust mop in any corners of the room and between the tiles. Removing the surface dirt and dust will make cleaning the tiles easier.

Mop the floor with a mild cleaning solution. You should then use a mild cleaning solution on the floor to get rid of any stains and dirt. You can use a commercial cleanser or make your own solution using water and vinegar. Combine ¼ cup white vinegar with two gallons of warm water to make a home cleaning solution. Mop the floor and let it sit for five to ten minutes. The vinegar will help to disinfect, deodorize, and clean the tiles.

You can look for commercial cleaner at your local hardware store or in the cleaning aisle. Make sure the cleaner is made for use on unpolished or unglazed porcelain tiles.

Scrub and rinse the floor. Once you apply the cleanser, you should let it sit on the floor for about 10 minutes. Then, use a soft bristle brush to scrub at any stains. Scrub in circular motions at the stains until they are removed. You should wipe away any remaining cleaner solution on the floor and then rinse it well with hot water. Do not let the cleanser sit on the tiles after 10 minutes, as it could damage the tile.

Dry the floor well. Use a clean towel to dry the floor. Make sure you dry it thoroughly, with no water spots or puddles of water on the floor. You can also open windows in the room and use a fan to dry the floor.