How Using Soap and Water?

Clean off any debris first. You don’t want to scrub leaves or dirt into the stone if you can help it. Sweep the area with a broom or wipe it down with a clean cloth to get it ready for scrubbing. Mix dish soap and water in a bucket. Pour in 1⁄2 cup (120 mL) or so of dish soap, then fill up the rest of the bucket with water.

Slosh it around a little to mix the soap into the water. You just need enough dish soap to make the water sudsy. Scrub the area with a scrubbing broom or brush. Dip the brush or broom into the mixture, getting it thoroughly wet. Scrub the stone in a circular motion, making sure you scrub all of the tiles thoroughly.

Dip the brush back into the mixture as it gets grimy. If you need to, wash the brush or broom out with a hose or in the sink. On stubborn areas, you can try a solution of half water, half vinegar or lemon juice. Rinse off inside areas with clean water. Once you’ve scrubbed down the whole area, dump out your bucket and fill it with clean water.

Rinse out your brush or broom, then go over the tile or counter to rinse the soap off. On a counter, you can also use a clean cloth to rinse it off. Spray outside areas with a small nozzle to get off dirt and caked-on grime. Attach a small sidewalk sweeper nozzle to the end of your hose.

Turn the hose on full blast and run the thin stream of water over your window or door features or patio tile. Rinse all the soap and dirt off until the area is completely clean. You can find these nozzles at your home improvement store. You can also use a power washer, but it can scour the stone if you’re not careful.

How Avoiding Damage to Your Marble Tiles?

Test poultice and cleaner before using. Pick a hidden or inconspicuous spot on the marble tiles and do a test clean. This is important, as some products may etch or discolor marble tiles. In the end, it’s better to perform a test than to ruin your entire marble tiles floor or tiles.

Wait at least 24 hours after testing. This will give you enough time to see if the product has harmed the marble tiles. Consider testing poultice or other cleaning products underneath the granite where it overhangs a cabinet. Avoid acidic cleaners and strong chemicals.

There are a wide variety of household products that could damage your marble tiles simply by making contact. As a result, you need to avoid these products. They include: Vinegar, Ammonia, Hydrogen peroxide, Lemon, orange, or other citrus cleaners, Cleaners that are acidic.

Hire a professional to seal your marble tiles regularly. While sealing your marble tiles won’t protect it completely from staining, it will decrease the likelihood of some staining. As a result, you should have your Carrara marble tiles sealed when installed and resealed regularly.

You may need to reseal your marble tiles after three to five years. Polished Carrara marble tiles may not need to be sealed. Honed Carrara marble tiles should always be sealed. If it is not sealed, it will absorb any liquids that are spilled on it. Reapplying the poultice will very likely lighten or remove the stain that remained after you first applied it.

How Doing General Cleaning and Polishing?

Wipe marble tiles surfaces with a wet cloth. Use only warm tap water, as many household cleaners are too harsh for marble tiles counters. Wipe the length of the counter with a wet cloth. Microfiber cloths are best for this if you have them, they’ll give the counter a better scrub without needing to use a household cleaner. If you need to clean your counter more thoroughly, you can use commercial cleaners specifically designed for marble tiles.

For marble tiles floors, passing a dust mop on the surface regularly should be enough for regular cleaning. However, if the floor is dirty and requires some extra cleaning, add a couple of drops of dish soap to a bucket of water and use a microfiber head mop to clean the floor with this solution. Dry the floor thoroughly after cleaning it. This kind of cleaning should be done daily to clear crumbs or any dust that may have accumulated on the counter, it won’t clean serious stains.

Wipe tiles dry with a separate cloth. Don’t let the marble tiles just air dry, since marble tiles is easily marked by water spots. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe tiles until they’re dry. Spread a baking soda mixture over the marble tiles polish it. Mix three tablespoons (44ml) of baking soda with one quart (946ml) of water. Use a shammy to spread this mixture over your marble tiles surface.

Let the mixture sit on your marble tiles for a few hours before wiping it away with a wet cloth. Sprinkle crushed chalk over your marble tiles to polish it further. For best results, you’ll want to use a box of white chalk and use a mortar and pestle to crush it into fine dust. Use a shammy to wipe the counter in circles, buffing it and bringing out the shine.

Wipe the chalk dust away with a dry cloth after buffing it. Remove the painter’s tape after applying the silicone adhesive and before it dries. Start removing each piece of tape immediately after applying your adhesive beads. Either remove your tape after each bead or all at once after applying all of the beads.

How Removing Stains with a Poultice?

Mix paper towel pieces, ammonia, and hydrogen peroxide in a bowl. Rip up a couple sheets of paper towels and place them in a bowl. Note that the amount of paper towel you use depends on the size of the stain you’re trying to remove. Pour a few drops of ammonia in the bowl, and enough hydrogen peroxide to completely soak the paper towel chunks.

When handling ammonia, you should wear gloves to avoid skin irritation and burns. If the stain you’re trying to remove is quite large, you may want to fold up a paper towel instead. Attempt this method if you’re dealing with old or tenacious stains that can’t be removed with more conventional means.

Place the paper towel poultice over the stain. Pick the saturated chunks out of the bowl and place them over the stain. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, or the hydrogen peroxide and ammonia might leak out over your marble tiles. If you’re dealing with a vertical surface, the paper towel chunks should be wet enough to just stick on.

Seal the poultice with plastic wrap. Stretch a length of plastic wrap over the poultice and stain. Apply pressure to its sides, so that it completely seals the poultice, then use clear adhesive tape to secure the plastic wrap. Use a toothpick to poke a couple of holes in the plastic wrap to allow airflow. Let the poultice sit for two to three days.

Remove the plastic wrap and wash the area with warm water. You should be able to lift the plastic wrap easily with just your fingers. Pick the paper towel poultice off of your surface and throw the chunks away. Then, dampen a cloth with warm water and wipe the area clean. After washing the marble tiles, use a dry cloth or paper towel to dry the area.

How Doing Daily Cleanup of Marble Tiles?

Wet the surface of the tiles. Run a clean, damp cloth over the surface of the cultured marble tiles to slightly wet it. This helps you avoid damaging the glaze that gives it its shine when you apply the soap or cleaner. If the surface already has lingering water, such as from a shower, you don’t need to add more.

Apply a mild soap or all purpose cleaner to the surface. You can spray the soap or cleaner directly onto your cultured marble tiles, or you can dampen a clean towel and wipe it over the surface. Choose a water-based cleaner with a neutral pH. It’s the safest option for cleaning your cultured marble tiles without damaging the glaze or scratching the surface.

Wipe the surface of the cultured marble tiles with the rag. Make circular movements as you wipe away the soap or cleaner. If necessary, apply more soap or cleaner to the cultured marble tiles. Continue wiping with your cloth until the surface is dry. Use a soft cloth to avoid scratching or damaging the surface. Don’t use abrasive sponges or cloths.

If your cloth is very wet, switch to a clean, dry cloth to remove the remaining cleanser. Avoid using harsh chemicals, which can damage the surface. Harsh chemicals can damage the glaze on your cultured marble tiles, making it appear dull. These cleaners can also cause chemical scuffs and scratches on your cultured marble tiles. Stick to mild soaps and cleaners.

Rinse away the cleaning agent and polish the marble tiles, if desired. Fill your cup with cold water again. Pour it on the cleaned portion of your marble tiles and wipe up excess liquid and remaining dirtiness with a clean, soft, dry rag. After this, your counter should be clean. This method will remove dirt and debris but not grease.

How to Select Wood Flooring

If you choose it right, your wood flooring will last you for years to come. Decorating your home will be a lot easier as well, since beautiful floors make for an excellent base for truly outstanding interior design. By learning how to decide between different types of wood flooring and how to adjust the final touches to match your decor, make sure you choose the best option for your home.

Look for labels on the nail slots in each panel. These slots are often marked with letters to help installers line up rows of panels properly. The vinyl panels are pretty thin, so don’t put the nails in too tightly. Pound the nails in so they’re about even with the upper lip of each panel. That way, the panels can expand and contract as the weather changes.

Attach a top strip to prevent water from seeping behind the vinyl. Use a snap-lock tool to punch a hole every 16 in (41 cm) over the upper furring strip. Set a vinyl strip or J-channel over the strip. Grip the strip between tin snips to guide it onto the vinyl panels. Secure it in place with more galvanized siding nails.

These are the only nails visible in the siding. Consider adding some primer and then painting over them with water-resistant latex paint. Keep the layer of mortar the same depth throughout the wall so the stone veneer fits evenly on the wall. Consider scratching the mortar with a scarifier, a metal rake, or another tool to improve the finished bonding.

Arrange the stone panels on the ground in front of the wall. The panels fit together like puzzle pieces, but you have to assemble them first to ensure they go together. Spread them out face down on the ground and push the pieces as close together as possible to eliminate gaps. Create the finished pattern you want your wall to have.

The Knowledge of Tile Wood Glues

Wipe away the excess glue. Use a damp rag to blot at the glue squeezing up through the cracks in the newly-repaired gap, then go over the seam until no residue remains. Any adhesive left behind by mistake could dry to a rough texture underfoot or produce mild discoloration in the laminate.

If you used caulk or wood putty to fill the gap, you may need to sand down the excess material once it has had time to dry. For the smoothest finish, use 180-grit sandpaper or higher. Most wood glues dry clear, which means they won’t be visible in the seam between the two planks.

If there are a large number of patches on your floor, or there’s a noticeable difference in level of sheen, you might need to re-varnish the entire floor. Wipe down tiles. After the grout has completely dried, clean it off again with a dry cloth. Seal your tiles. If you want, you can apply a grout sealant to help protect your tiles.

Add a small line of silicone caulk to the bottom edge of your tile to seal out water and prevent mildew growth. Sprinkle over a little turpentine and white spirit. This will create patchy streaks on the dark paint of the squares. Leave the dark squares to dry. Remove the paper from the border. Paint entirely in black paint. While it is still wet, use a paint cloth to wipe turpentine in it here and there, to create a mottled effect.

Don’t do all of the border, just parts to give the effect of old marbling. Use a fine brush to add very thin faux white lines to the border. Only do this part once the paint has dried. Remove the paper from the entire floor. Seal the floor with five thin coats of a low-gloss polyurethane varnish. Allow each layer to dry before adding the next.

The Knowledge of Tile Mist and Dry Cement

Do any additional touch-ups required. Stand back and admire your work; it should appear as a marbled black and white checkered floor. Decorate your painted surface. Once your painted concrete floor has dried you can add your own personal touch. Apply a stencil design to your cement floor and paint on your desired pattern or style.

You can create your own stencil. Or you can check with your local paint store for stencils and designs to apply to your flooring. Have a helper on hand to hold the boards in place while you attach them to the walls. Spray another small section of the wall, completely soaking it before applying a layer of cement. Smooth out the cement before moving onto the next portion.

Keep doing this until your wall is coated in a single, perfect layer of fresh cement. If you make a mistake, scrape off the cement right away with a trowel or another tool. Cement is much easier to take care of before it hardens! Mist and dry the cement for 3 days. Get a big misting bottle and fill it with water.

Dampen the concrete twice a day for 3 days straight to ensure it cures correctly. After that, your wall is done and you can enjoy the strong but smooth finish the cement gives it. Cement can be painted over by coating it with a concrete primer. Another option is to mix colored concrete pigment into your wheelbarrow of wet cement to give it some color.

Add the stucco to the top of the wall, then spread it from left to right, repeating this as needed to finish the layer. The scratch coat is like a second base for the outer layer of stucco, so don’t skip it. Applying a large amount of stucco all at once is a recipe for an unappealing finish.

How Stripping the Old Finish?

Buy a floor stripping solution suitable for your floor. Having determined what type of finish is on your floor by following the instructions for Preparing the Floor, buy a stripping solution that will remove that type. Also make sure the stripping solution is safe to use on hardwood, or whichever material your floor is made from.

If you can’t find a product that specifically matches the type of finish previously used on your floor, try out a “universal” floor stripping solution on a small corner of your floor to test it. Either vacuum or sweep your floor with a dust mop or broom. Remove all dust and debris from the area using a dust mop if you have one, or a broom if not. Put on clean footwear afterward to prevent further dust from getting on the floor.

Use safety gear. Chemicals in the solution can be dangerous to the skin or create toxic fumes. Work in a well ventilated area and protect yourself with gloves, long sleeves and pants. Use goggles and a respirator mask for large stripping jobs or poorly ventilated areas. The respirator mask should be labeled as an organic vapor blocker.

Line a bucket with a trash bag and fill with stripping solution. A heavy duty trash bag allows for easy cleanup and lets you use the bucket for other purposes later. Follow the instructions on the floor stripping solution to determine how much you need, and whether to dilute the solution with water. Have a mop ready.

The trash bag is especially essential for mop buckets, since you don’t want to later clean your floor with residual floor stripping solution. A “strip mop” is a specialized mop that will do a more effective job, but any mop will do. Fill a second bucket with clean water and a second mop. You don’t have much time to apply and remove the stripping solution, so it’s important to have a second mop handy for cleaning up. The first mop will be too saturated with stripping solution to use for cleaning purposes.

How Preparing the Wax Floor?

Determine whether the floor has already been treated. You may want to wax a floor that has already been treated, since these surfaces do wear down and get dirty eventually. First, find out which type of product was used: natural ones called wax, or synthetic ones called finish. If the previous owner is unable to tell you, you’ll need to examine the floor yourself:

If the floor is not shiny or glossy, and you can feel the original material with your finger, it has not been treated. Wipe a small section of the floor with a cloth dipped in mineral spirits or paint thinner. If the cloth turns yellow or brown, your floor has been waxed. If the cloth does not pick up any residue, your floor has been finished.

Choose a wax or finish. If your floor has never been treated, you can select any wax or finish product intended for the material your floor is made from. Polyurethane is a popular, glossy option, but each product will appear slightly different, so do your research and determine which look you want. If your floor has already been treated, you’ll need to choose the correct option:

Wax is difficult to fully remove, since it soaks into the wood. This makes the floor unsuitable for a synthetic finish unless you hire a professional to strip the wax fully, but new wax can be applied without difficulty after stripping, or even simply applied on top if the old layer is only scratched, not dirty.

If the floor has been finished, you can go over it with a floor machine with scrubbing pad attachment to remove part of the finish, then apply that same type of finish to improve the appearance. If you can’t figure out what type it is, or if you want to use a different type, you’ll need to strip the old finish off entirely first.