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The Knowledge of Tiling Tiles

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Scratch the stucco 5 to 10 minutes after applying it. Waiting allows the scratch coat to solidify it a little bit so you don’t accidentally end up scratching the wall underneath it. When you’re ready, get a tool called a scarifier, which looks like a handheld rake or comb. Rake it horizontally across the entire wall to scratch lines into the stucco. A scratch coat is a rough initial layer. You create scratch marks on it to create a base for the final layer to bond to, leading to a stronger wall covering.


The scratch marks don’t have to be perfectly horizontal or even. Simply drag the tool across the wall a few times. As long as you have marks along the entire wall, you can create a much stronger finish. If you don’t have a scarifier available, use the edge of a trowel or another tool. Make the scratches about 1⁄8 in (0.32 cm) deep.


Dry the stucco for 2 days, misting it twice a day. Leave the stucco exposed to harden in open air. Keep it wet by spraying it with water from a misting bottle each morning and afternoon. If you let the stucco dry out before it finishes curing, it may weaken and crack. Stucco is similar to concrete and needs to be treated the same way. Always let the first layer cure before applying a second one.


Apply a second layer of stucco and let it dry. Finish the wall cover by repeating the process with another 1⁄4 in (0.64 cm) layer. This time, instead of scratching the stucco, use the trowel to create whatever finished design you want. When you’re finished, mist it and dry it for at least 2 days.


For example, some designers sweep a trowel across the stucco to give it an uneven, ridged design. You could also use a scarifier to give it a scratched design or leave it flat if you wish. If you wish to use concrete pigment, don’t forget to mix it in with the fresh batch of stucco. Otherwise, you can apply wall paint to the stucco after it finishes drying.

Preparing for Install Glass Tile

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Check your surface for structural integrity. Before you start tiling, make sure that whatever surface will be supporting the tiles will be strong and structurally sound. You don’t want to do all this beautiful tile work just to have to tear it down in two years! This means checking the wall studs if you’re putting the tile on a wall, the subfloor and floor joists if you’re tiling a floor, or the counter base and marble tile backing if you’re tiling a countertop.

Look for signs of mold and rot. This will usually be obvious, with seriously discolored wood or a surface which is soft and gives way under pressure. You’ll also want to look for cracks in the surface that you’re tiling. Small cracks may be normal but big cracks might need to be dealt with before you can continue.

Add a base material if you don’t have one. If you don’t have a solid surface to put your tiles on, you’ll need to add one. Cement board or drywall is best, as these can handle the moisture of the tiling process. Plywood should be absolutely avoided, since the wood will warp with the added moisture and it will also be less waterproof, even after tiling.

Cover any joints. Make sure that joints between cement boards or drywall are bridged with fiber mesh tape. You do not want the panels to move individual once your tile is up, since this will cause the tiles to crack.

Create your guide lines. With your surface prepared, you’ll want to create even lines that you can follow when setting your tiles. For glass tiles, using a laser level will be the easiest option. These can be purchased fairly cheaply and will project a straight line onto your surface that you can follow with your tiles. Just set it to level and then project the line where you want the tiles to go.