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How Preparing the Wax Floor?

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Determine whether the floor has already been treated. You may want to wax a floor that has already been treated, since these surfaces do wear down and get dirty eventually. First, find out which type of product was used: natural ones called wax, or synthetic ones called finish. If the previous owner is unable to tell you, you’ll need to examine the floor yourself:


If the floor is not shiny or glossy, and you can feel the original material with your finger, it has not been treated. Wipe a small section of the floor with a cloth dipped in mineral spirits or paint thinner. If the cloth turns yellow or brown, your floor has been waxed. If the cloth does not pick up any residue, your floor has been finished.


Choose a wax or finish. If your floor has never been treated, you can select any wax or finish product intended for the material your floor is made from. Polyurethane is a popular, glossy option, but each product will appear slightly different, so do your research and determine which look you want. If your floor has already been treated, you’ll need to choose the correct option:


Wax is difficult to fully remove, since it soaks into the wood. This makes the floor unsuitable for a synthetic finish unless you hire a professional to strip the wax fully, but new wax can be applied without difficulty after stripping, or even simply applied on top if the old layer is only scratched, not dirty.


If the floor has been finished, you can go over it with a floor machine with scrubbing pad attachment to remove part of the finish, then apply that same type of finish to improve the appearance. If you can’t figure out what type it is, or if you want to use a different type, you’ll need to strip the old finish off entirely first.

How to Trimming Tile with a Wet Saw?

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Where you want to make the cut on the floor tile using a square. A square will help you draw straight lines for cutting. Use a lead or grease pencil to make your marks. Don’t use a permanent marker. This will be very difficult to remove from the rustic tile in the end. Fill the tray of the wet saw with water by turning on the water pump. The water will cool down the blade of the wet saw. Don’t fill the reservoir past the maximum line marked on the edge of the tray.

You can cover the floor underneath the saw with a plastic drop cloth if you’re worried about it getting wet. There’s a chance water will spray or splash out of the reservoir. Set the wall tile on the saw, lining up the blade with the cut mark. Before turning on the saw, you may want to slide the tile about 1 inch (2.5 cm) back from the blade so it doesn’t start cutting immediately. Make sure the tile is completely flat on the surface of the saw.

If you put the widest section of the clound tile between the blade and the fence, you’ll avoid having to get your hand too close to the blade. Lock the fence along the edge of the only tile for a straight cut. The fence (also known as the lock plate) can be shifted from side to side along the saw to adjust for different sizes of tile. It’s a long bar that sits on top of the saw’s table next to the blade. Push it flush against the edge of your ceramic tile once you have it aligned with the blade, and lock it into place.

To lock the fence, there should be a small lever on the side of the fence. Pull it out towards you to unlock it and push it in against the saw to lock it. You can lock the fence on either the right or left side of the blade. It depends on which is most comfortable for you. Turn on the wet saw by pressing the button on the side of saw. The “on” switch may be a green button. Wait for the water to cover the blade before you start cutting.

Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect yourself from flying debris. Always leave the protective plastic covering over the blade while you’re cutting. Push the tile gently along the fence into the blade. You shouldn’t have to force the tile through the blade. You’re simply guiding it along using both hands. When you get near the end, firmly press the 2 halves of the glazed rustic tile together as you push it through the blade so that the tile doesn’t break before the cut is made.

Make any necessary adjustments to the kitchen tile while you guide it. If the blade starts straying from your cut mark, gently push the polished tile back into place. Harder or thicker tiles design should be pushed through at a slower rate. You’ll know you’re pushing it too fast if you hear the blade slow down. Never take your eyes off the blade as you cut. Looking away for even just a second is very dangerous.

Keep your hands as far away from the blade as possible. If you need to, you can use a piece of scrap wood to push the tile through the blade. Turn off the saw before removing the marble tile from the table. The “off” switch is typically a red button on the side of the saw. Wait until the blade has completely stopped rotating before you grab the tile. Make sure the bathroom tile is free of the blade before you reach over to turn off the saw. Otherwise, it could go shooting off the table. After you unplug the saw, you should use a damp sponge to wipe it down and remove any debris.

How To Maintain White Ceramic Tile?

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1.Anti-pollution measures of white ceramic tile wall:Paste anti-pollution sticker on the white tile with heavy oil pollution, use beautiful seaming agent in the seam of white ceramic tile, besmear the seam of white ceramic tile, both beautiful and oily.

2.The stain that soap leaves can be avoided, after daily wash bath, wipe the soap foam on the metope in time;In addition, the white ceramic tile that can be in between wei yu can besmear a layer of antifouling agent, can effectively avoid soap scale.


3.White tiles on the rear of the rust – prone water pipe can be used with anti-rust or professional rust remover to prevent rust and remove rust;In addition, it can also be used for the polishing, covering, grease, anti-rust oil and other methods of the white ceramic tiles that are easy to rust.
Master these small skill, believe will make the white ceramic tile “eternal youth”.