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How Removing Stains?

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Test cleaners in an inconspicuous area first. No matter what cleaner you’re using, it’s always a good idea to test it first, particularly with stronger cleaners. Put a little cleaner on the stone in a spot that’s out of the way. Leave it on for 5-10 minutes to see if it affects the Bluestone tiles.


If the cleaner causes a change in the stone color (after it dries), you shouldn’t use it on the stone. Be aware, though, that just lifting the grime off the stone can affect the color, so make sure it’s the actual stone that’s changing color. Apply an oxidizing cleaner to mold and mildew. Put on gloves and eye protection. Mix the cleaner into a bucket of water according to the package’s instructions.


Use a scrubbing brush to apply the cleaner to the surface, moving it back and forth to thoroughly cleanse the area. You can apply a lot of pressure to Bluestone tiles, so don’t worry about harming it. Leave the cleaner on for at least 12-15 minutes. When you’re done, make sure to rinse the area thoroughly.


Oxidizers work by adding oxygen to the area, removing stains and grime. Bleach is an oxidizer, but many other cleaners are oxidizers, too, which is actually an oxygen bleach cleaner. Don’t use this cleaner in direct sunlight, as it may evaporate before it can work. Pick a cleaner like Stain Solver for this purpose.


Try ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide for algae or mildew. Mix 0.5 cups (120 mL) of your chosen cleaner into 1 gallon (3.8 L) of warm water. Apply the cleaner with a scrubbing brush to the soiled area and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Thoroughly rinse the area when you’re done. Never mix ammonia and bleach, as the solution creates toxic gases!

How to Install Ceramic Tile on Sub Floor?

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Once you’ve determined the thickness of the underlayment you will use, the steps of installation are the same. Dry fit your sheets of cement board to the area you are tiling. To cut the board you can either use the side grinder with diamond blade, or you can score and break the material.

The cement tile department personnel can show you the available scoring knives. Your joints between sheets should not exceed 1/8 inch. It is also advisable to install the sheets perpendicular to the direction of the floor tile. This adds additional strength and stability.

Install the sheets one at a time. Mix your thinset according to the instructions on the bag. Lift one sheet (leave the rest in place) and spread thinset directly onto the bathroom floor filling the area left by the sheet (use a 1/4″ x 1/4″ notch trowel). Once you have filled the space place the sheet down onto the thinset. Secure the cement board with the screws using the pattern directed by the board manufacturer. Repeat with the remaining sheets of cement board until finished.

Apply the crack suppression membrane over the joints of the boards. You will use the flat trowel to apply a thin layer according to the manufacturers specifications. (e.g. 6-18″ width across the joint). This will distributed the stress caused by movement of the subfloor tile and prevent cracking in your wood marble tile. If greater protection is desired you can cover the entire floor with the membrane. Let dry for 24 hours.

Complete the installation. The remaining steps are identical to installing tiles price on a concrete slab, less one tip: Use a damp sponge to wipe the cement board prior to applying thinset. This will keep the cement board from drying the thinset too fast and allow proper adhesion to the wall tiles design.

The Preparing Things for Install Ceramic Tile on Sub Floor

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Installing ceramic floor tile to a plywood sub-floor has unique challenges beyond that of installation on a concrete floor. Plywood or OSB (flakeboard) can expand and contract at too high a rate to be a stable foundation for tile. This will cause either the element tile itself to crack and even come loose, or cause the grout to crack inside the joints.

This could happen right away or within months of the installation. If done properly, a wall tiles design installation should last many years without cracking. This article will provide necessary tips to minimize issues with unstable subfloors.

Determine the maximum practical thickness that is possible for the combination of tile, underlayment and setting materials in your project. It is necessary to consider adjoining floors (e.g. carpet or wood), height of toe kicks (beneath cabinets) and even the aesthetics of the base molding where the walls meet the floor.

Example:     An adjoining wood floor may have 5/8 inch thick material (~16mm). If you use 1/2 inch underlayment and 3/8 inch rustic tile with 1/8 inch of setting material, your tile floor will have a total of 1 inch (~26mm) of thickness. This means that your finished floor will be 3/8 inch (10mm) taller that the adjoining wood floor. Transition strips may be available to accommodate this height difference, but you may be able to compensate with your underlayment by choosing 1/4 inch thick cement board instead.

Determine the stability of the subfloor. If you can feel the subfloor flex as you walk or bounce on it then you will need to use a thicker cement board. If it flexes too much you may want to consult a professional. Assuming the subfloor is relatively stable you may use a 1/4 thick cement board safely. If there is some flexing then you will need 1/2 inch concrete board.