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How to Applying the Stain on Your Tiles?

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Whether you have just moved into a new house with outdated tile designs and colours, or you just want to change the ambience of a room, staining tiles is a good alternative to removing and replacing them. However, this can be a pretty big job so you need to be prepared to set aside a lot of time for the whole process to be completed. Follow these steps to successfully stain your ceramic tiles and give your home a new look.

Sand the primed home tiles lightly. For good measure, it is recommended to lightly sand the floor tiles after both coats of the primer are dry. Again this will give your tiles a nice and smooth finish, as well as help the longevity of the stain.

Coat your tiles with your chosen stain or paint colour. Apply the stain evenly on the wood tiles surface using a clean roller brush. Do the same up and down motion as when you applied the primer and also work in small sections. For the finishing strokes, work in one direction from top to bottom to smooth out the surface.

Let the stain dry for at least 6 hours before applying the next coat. You can also do some light sanding in between coats. Use an oil-based or latex stain that contains urethane resin, which is an adhesive that sticks to ceramic surfaces very well. Allow some time between 24 to 48 hours for the stain to fully dry before moving on to the last few steps.

Remove dust and dirt. Once the stain is dry, take a cloth and wipe off any accumulated dust or dirt on the surface of the garden tiles. This will allow you to closely inspect the stain and make sure that you are satisfied with the work that you have done before applying a finishing coat.

Apply polyurethane coat to your tiles. This will protect your newly stained wall tiles and prevent them from getting chipped. Apply only the recommended amount by the product manufacturer to avoid over coating. Wait at least 4 hours in between coats.

What Should We Pay Attention When Remove Bathroom Floor Tile?

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Remove the marble tiles without removing the substrate.If the material beneath the wall tiles is in good condition, you can save yourself some money and leave it intact. That said, this method is slow and often causes some damage to the substrate; use your best judgement. Remove the tiles design with a flat pry bar, placing the edge low against the side of the tile and striking the base of the knife with a hammer. An electric chisel is another option. Periodically scrape adhesive off the exposed floor with a putty knife or a floor scraper.

If the ceramic tile only breaks in tiny pieces, or if you want to maximize the chance that the small tile comes out intact, scrape out the grout lines around the flooring tiles first. You may use a handheld grout saw, a carbide blade fitted onto a rotary grinder or oscillating tool, or (less effectively) a utility knife with several spare blades. A little heat from a blow dryer or heat gun may soften the grout.

Saw through plywood or cement board substrate. Chip away a row of white tiles to expose this substrate. Fit a reciprocating saw with a long blade (wood-cutting or carbide-tipped masonry cutting, depending on the material). Cut into the side of the substrate at a low angle, making a long cut to free it from the floor beneath. You can now lift the material and tile up in chunks with a flat bar. Cutting through cement board may damage the floor beneath, and roofing nails may interrupt your progress. A safer, but slower alternative is to break through the cement board with a hammer. You can then pry the cement board off the floor beneath using a pry bar.

Remove the mortar bed. Floor tiles from the 1960s and earlier were often installed on a thick mortar bed. Mortar beds were typically installed in areas where the floor was sloped for drainage, e.g., in shower areas. This is a pain to remove, but chiseling out the tiles is slow and will likely cause cracks in the mortar anyway, so it’s best to replace it now if you can afford it.

Most mortar beds are made of sand mixed with a small quantity of Portland cement tiles, and are not particularly difficult to break up. Shut off the house’s main water valve before you begin. Removing the mortar bed may damage a water pipe. Break through a small area with a chisel and sledge to the surface beneath (usually wood). Using a rotary hammer with a chisel bit (from a tool rental company), chisel around a chunk of mortar about 1 foot (0.3 m) across. Use caution when approaching the base of the bed. Complete the job by using the hammer between the wood and the mortar bed, periodically chiseling the mortar from above.