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The Knowledge of Saw Cut Tiles

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Wipe away the marker and use a rubbing stone to smooth the edges tile. Use a clean, damp cloth to wipe away the washable marker. The glass tile piece will be sharp and possibly a little rough, so take a rubbing stone, hold it at a 45 degree angle to the front of the tile, and rub it in a parallel motion over the edge to round and smooth it out. Rub the rubbing stone down the whole length of the edge. A rubbing stone can also be used to buff out any small irregularities in the break.


Turn on the saw and let it run for 15 seconds. Give the saw a chance to warm up and get going by turning it on and allowing the water to flow freely over the blade of the saw. Wait about 15 seconds before you begin cutting so you can be sure the saw is functioning properly and the water is flowing smoothly. Warning: If the water isn’t flowing, don’t cut with the saw! The friction could cause the glass to shatter and the blade could heat up and damage the saw.


Line up the cutting guide on the wet saw and the guidelines on the tile. The wet saw will have measuring or cutting guides that will lock the glass tile in place. Use the guide on the wet saw and match it up to the lines you drew on the tile with the washable marker, then slide the guide to lock the tile and keep it from moving. Align the saw carefully, because you won’t be able to undo a cut once you make it.


Push the tile through the saw and away from you. Feed the tile slowly through the saw with a light but consistent pressure as the blade cuts through it. Push with your hands on the edge of the glass away from the blade, keeping your movement continuous. Push the tile through the saw until it cuts all the way through for an even cut and a smoother edge.


Turn off the saw and wipe away the washable marker. When you have finished cutting your glass tile, use a clean cloth to wipe away the washable marker guidelines. Power down the saw and wait for the blade to stop spinning completely before you pick up or handle the saw. Wipe up and dust or glass pieces that may be on your saw or workstation.

How Establishing Your Layout Lines?

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Calculate the square footage of the room. To determine the square footage of a square or rectangular room, simply find the length of 2 adjacent walls in square feet and multiply them together. For irregularly-shaped areas like closets, alcoves, and counters, multiply the length and width of the extra space separately, then add this number to the square footage of the main part of the room.

If you’re measuring a rectangular room that’s 18 square feet (1.7 m2) x 12 square feet (1.1 m2), for example, the total square footage would be 216 square feet (20.1 m2). Figuring out the room’s square footage will tell you exactly how much tile you’ll need for your flooring project, which may influence the size and style you go with.

Note the size of your tiles. Once you’ve picked out a style you like, jot down the tile’s dimensions in a notebook or on a separate sheet of paper. You’ll need to know their exact length and width in order to determine how many will fit within the floor space of the room you’re tiling.

The size of the tiles should be plainly displayed on the product listing, packaging, or order invoice. It may be a good idea to measure the tiles yourself just in case the listed dimensions are off by a centimeter or 2. Be sure to measure the wall using the same unit as your tiles. If the length and width of the tiles is given in inches, for example, you’ll want to measure the room in inches, as well.

Find the length of the room’s longest walls. Run a tape measure along the wall from corner to corner. Record this number in your notebook, being sure to specify which measurements are which. If the room you’re working in is perfectly square, you can start with either set of opposing walls.

The Difference Between Porcelain and Ceramic Tiles

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Before you buy tile for a tiling project, you should be able to identify porcelain and ceramic tiles. Both are made from a mixture of clays and other materials, then kiln-fired. Both porcelain and ceramic tile are in the category of “ceramic tile.” Ceramic tiles are divided into two groups: non-porcelain tiles (or ceramic) and porcelain tiles. In general terms, porcelain tiles are a higher quality and more resistant to damage, since they’re fired in a kiln at higher temperatures and made of less porous materials.

Inspect the tiles’ finish to see how smooth it is. You can do this either by visually inspecting the tiles’ top surfaces or by running your fingers over the top of the tiles. Porcelain tiles have a fine-grained finish that is smoother than the finish on ceramic tiles. So, if the finish is slightly bumpy or coarse when you touch it, you’re dealing with non-porcelain (ceramic) tile. If the tiles are already glazed, flip them over and look at the unglazed underside.

Look for chips in the glaze to identify ceramic tile. Look closely at the glaze: if it’s chipped, you will be able to see the tile’s white or tan base. This is a sure sign that the tile is ceramic. Porcelain tiles are sometimes, but not always, glazed. Most high-quality porcelain tiles will have a consistent color that goes through the top, body, and bottom of the tile. Ceramic tiles, on the other hand, are nearly always glazed. Glazed porcelain tiles are much harder and are more resistant to wear and damage than non-porcelain ceramic tiles.

Examine the sides of the tile for a white, tan, or red color. While porcelain tiles can be colored, ceramic tiles will always have a white, tan, or red color, with a colored glaze on top. So, if you see that the sides (and base) of the tile are any other color other than white, tan, or red, you can be sure that you’re dealing with a porcelain tile. Some cheap, low-quality porcelain tiles may not have the color mixed through the body of the tile. Avoid purchasing these tiles.

Compare the costs of the two tile types. In nearly every scenario, porcelain tiles are more expensive than ceramic tiles: they take more time to produce, are more versatile, and tend to last longer. If you’re looking at two types of tiles in a hardware or home-supply store, non-porcelain (ceramic) tiles will be a little cheaper. As a broad rule of thumb, porcelain tile usually costs approximately 60% more than ceramic tile.

What Should We Do Before Install Tiles on a Concrete Basement Floor?

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At first glance, installing tiles design might seem like tough work. Indeed, very few people choose to install their floor tiles themselves during renovation, instead choosing to let a professional handle it. If you want to tackle the job yourself, a basic overview can help you on your way.

Pick the right marble tiles. Concrete floors are dull, drab and boring, but oftentimes people lack the time or the necessity to lay down an alternative floor. Most often, concrete floors are seen in basements and other out of the way places. However, if you choose to remodel your basement and need a new floor, the first thing to consider is what type of floor you need. Several varieties of cement tiles, including ceramic tile and vinyl, can be used; choose the one that best suits tiles your anticipated use.

Clean the concrete surface. This is a vital step of the project. Accumulated mud, dirt and other debris must be removed completely to ensure that the tiles are laid properly and stick to the concrete. For this purpose, be sure to use a commercial or industrial strength cleaning agent, along with lots of water and a brush.

Perform the concrete repairs and leveling. To lay an even surface, the underlying concrete needs to be uniform and level as well. To achieve this, get rid of any protrusions, bumps or cracks in the surface. Using sandpaper to level the bumps and concrete and other fillers to stop cracks, you should be able to get a smooth surface. Be sure to wash it after this is done and let it dry.

Plan the layout. After preparing the surface, plan how you intend to lay down the polished porcelain tiles. Depending on size and shape, you can have a wide variety of patterns to choose from and you may even decide to get creative with your patterns and create something original. Be sure to plan this out carefully before starting the actual work to ensure that there are no mistakes.

What Should We Pay Attention When Remove Bathroom Floor Tile?

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Remove the marble tiles without removing the substrate.If the material beneath the wall tiles is in good condition, you can save yourself some money and leave it intact. That said, this method is slow and often causes some damage to the substrate; use your best judgement. Remove the tiles design with a flat pry bar, placing the edge low against the side of the tile and striking the base of the knife with a hammer. An electric chisel is another option. Periodically scrape adhesive off the exposed floor with a putty knife or a floor scraper.

If the ceramic tile only breaks in tiny pieces, or if you want to maximize the chance that the small tile comes out intact, scrape out the grout lines around the flooring tiles first. You may use a handheld grout saw, a carbide blade fitted onto a rotary grinder or oscillating tool, or (less effectively) a utility knife with several spare blades. A little heat from a blow dryer or heat gun may soften the grout.

Saw through plywood or cement board substrate. Chip away a row of white tiles to expose this substrate. Fit a reciprocating saw with a long blade (wood-cutting or carbide-tipped masonry cutting, depending on the material). Cut into the side of the substrate at a low angle, making a long cut to free it from the floor beneath. You can now lift the material and tile up in chunks with a flat bar. Cutting through cement board may damage the floor beneath, and roofing nails may interrupt your progress. A safer, but slower alternative is to break through the cement board with a hammer. You can then pry the cement board off the floor beneath using a pry bar.

Remove the mortar bed. Floor tiles from the 1960s and earlier were often installed on a thick mortar bed. Mortar beds were typically installed in areas where the floor was sloped for drainage, e.g., in shower areas. This is a pain to remove, but chiseling out the tiles is slow and will likely cause cracks in the mortar anyway, so it’s best to replace it now if you can afford it.

Most mortar beds are made of sand mixed with a small quantity of Portland cement tiles, and are not particularly difficult to break up. Shut off the house’s main water valve before you begin. Removing the mortar bed may damage a water pipe. Break through a small area with a chisel and sledge to the surface beneath (usually wood). Using a rotary hammer with a chisel bit (from a tool rental company), chisel around a chunk of mortar about 1 foot (0.3 m) across. Use caution when approaching the base of the bed. Complete the job by using the hammer between the wood and the mortar bed, periodically chiseling the mortar from above.