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How to Marble a Wooden Floor?

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Creating a faux marble look on a wooden floor can be an interesting way to cheer up a fading floor. It’s also a lot easier to care for than a real marble floor! This article explains how to marble a floor in your home, using a black and white square checkerboard design. This will take up to a week to do and is fairly intensive work but the end result is worth the effort.


Sand the wooden floor completely. Remove all furniture from the room or area and any rugs. Be sure to sand every part of the floor that is to be marbled. Apply three coats of a light-coloured, flat, oil-based paint. Apply across the entire floorspace. Lay a grid of squares to create the black and white checkerboard square appearance. Measure exact squares across the entire floor space using a measuring tape and pencil.


Draw over the lines using a felt tip pen so that you can see the borders of each square easily when painting. Leave a general border space of 20 centimeter (7.9 in); this will “frame” the entire floor feature. Work in small areas at a time. Start by painting the light or white coloured squares using off-white white paint.


Start to create the mottled marble effect. While each off-white square is still wet, create small brush streaks using a combination of black, tan and grey. Use a dry brush to blur in the streaks. Leave these squares to dry thoroughly for 48 hours. Once dry, use masking tape and paper to protect them from the next step, painting the the dark colour.


Cover each light square completely in paper and be sure to make the masking tape meet the edges exactly. It takes a bit of work but it is worth doing well. Use a sponge to dab on black and dark green paint on the uncovered squares. This paint should not be brushed on, as you want it to appear streaked.

How to Replace Tile Floor?

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Installing a new white tile floor is a great way to update a space. If the old tiles and subfloor are in good shape, then you can tile directly over them. Or, you can pull up the flooring and start over entirely from scratch. To lay your stone tiles, start by deciding on a pattern. Then, apply thin-set to the floor and set each tile down individually. Keep going until your floor is finished, wipe it down with a wet sponge, and admire your work.

Decide whether or not to tile directly on top of the prior layer. If the old Cement tile is securely installed and in good condition, you can save yourself a lot of time by just laying new tile on top of it. However, the floor level will change a bit. If you rip up the old tile, it will take more time, but you can guarantee that the subfloor is secure.

Tap each old tile lightly to check for looseness. Get a small wood mallet and tap the center of each wood tile. Listen closely to the noise that follows. If it sounds hollow, then you need to pull up the tile, spread a layer of thin-set underneath it, and press it back down.

Check the floor for levelness. Place a level down on the floor. Look at it to see if the floor reads out as perfectly level. Move your level device around to check all parts of the room. If there are high points in the room, use a masonry grinder to grind them down. If there are low points, plan to build them up with some extra thin-set before laying your new tile.

Sand the old tiles down. Get an 80-grit or rougher sand paper. Go over the room, sanding each area until all of the Wood Marble tile is a bit rough on the surface. Use a broom or vacuum to pick up any dust left over from sanding. The rougher texture of the tile will help the new tile to attach more securely to the floor.Before you start working, put on a pair of construction goggles to protect your eyes. Don protective gloves that fit you well, if you are worried about skin irritation.

How Choosing and Mixing to Grout a Tile Floor?

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Remove the old grout. If you’re re-grouting an old Clunny tile surface, remove the old grout. You can remove the old grouting compound with a grout saw or a grout removal bit in a rotary tool. Make sure this is fully removed before proceeding. Make sure that the joints are free of any dirt, dust, or debris before you start as well.

Pick a color of grout. The color of the grout will affect whether people notice the beauty of the individual Dinosaur Stone tiles, or the overall pattern of the tiles. Light grout tends to accentuate the individual Pure Color tiles by blending in, becoming “invisible,” while dark grout tends to accentuate the pattern of the tiles, their overall structure on the floor.

Choose a color that matches the cement tile if you want the floor to have a continuous appearance. If you installed the tile yourself and the grout lines aren’t perfectly straight, a matching color of grout can help conceal these imperfections.

Choose a color of grout that contrasts the tile color if you want the individual subway tiles to stand out. If you installed polished tiles with an irregular edge, a contrasting color of grout will enhance this feature of the Spots tile. Choose a dark color for high traffic areas. White or light-colored grout will be difficult to keep clean.

Choose between sanded or unsanded grout. Sanded grout is stronger than unsanded grout. Sanded grout is needed when the grout lines are greater than 1/8-inch (3-mm) wide to add strength. Unsanded grout is liable to crack on wider joints. Wait for the thinset mortar to cure. Thinset is used to adhere the tiles to the floor during installation. The exact drying time varies by brand, so read and follow the thinset packaging carefully. You usually have to wait at least a day to grout a tile floor.

Mix the grout according to the package directions. You only want to mix as much as you can apply in about a half hour, as it will begin to dry out. Dump the powder into a large bucket, and add only 3/4 of the recommended water, mixing thoroughly with a trowel. Afterwards, mix in the remaining 1/4 of water and mix again. It should be the consistency of thick batter or slightly looser than smooth peanut butter; too much water will prevent it from spreading and hardening properly.