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How to Stop Floor Tiles from Cracking?

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Sand down any bumps or unevenness in the plywood. Once the plywood is laid and nailed down, use a level to check the plywood for small bumps and ridges. Use a belt sander to lightly sand down any uneven areas. Move the sander in a circular motion on the plywood to ensure an even sanding. Secure the plywood in place. Once all of the sheets are set down correctly, go through and pound the nails the rest of the way in. Follow the line of the joist underneath and space screws or nails every six inches.

Sweep the mosaic tile of sand and debris to get ready for the thinset mortar. Once everything has been nailed down and sanded, you’re ready to add another layer to the polished tile. The first thing you need to do is sweep the tile of all debris. Vacuuming with a shopvac would be a good idea as well in order to get dirt trapped in crevices and other hard to sweep areas.

Measure the tile and cut it to size. If you are using a thinner wood tile, you can score it with a knife and snap off what you don’t need. If the glazed rustic tile is thicker, a circular saw can make precise cuts to fit the tile to the contours of the room. Mix a batch of thinset mortar in a bucket according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Add the water first and then the powder to ensure that all the powder gets properly mixed in. Mix the thinset until the consistency is a little thicker than pancake batter.

Dollop out only enough mortar to for the piece of tile you are about to set down. Use a ¼ inch notched trowel to spread the mortar. Go from left to right and make uniform lines with the trowel. The ridges created in the mortar should not droop. Lay down the ceramic tile rough-side up. The cement tile can be laid directly on top of the adhesive leaving an eighth-inch gap between tiles. Make sure the tile is 1/2 inch away from the wall all the way around the room.

Fasten the cement tile to the plywood with 1 1/4-inch wall tile screws. The screws are designed so that they sit flush with the cement tile when screwed in so the head sits flush with the panel. Drive the screws every 8 inches along the perimeter of the ceramic tile and in its center. You will see circles on the tile where the screws are supposed to go.

Be careful not to screw too deeply because it can easily crack the tile. Screws should be 1/2 inch away from the edges of the black tile and 2 inches away from tilecorners. Finish laying out the rest of the tile, staggering the joints as you go. Stagger the sheets of wood marble tile as you lay them. Make sure that the edges of the cement tile do not line up with those of the plywood. This adds structural strength and limits pathways for water.

How to Preparing the Shower for Tiles Before Tile a Shower?

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Gut the shower stall down to the studs. You may need to remove the shower pan and ceiling, as well. Do not put down any plastic because this can trap moisture and lead to rotting. Instead, use a product that you can paint on to help prevent moisture. Choose a vapor barrier to install and introduce according to manufacturer directions. If you fail to install a vapor barrier, you might grow mold and mildew as moisture from your shower escapes through the tiles and into walls tile. Improperly installed rustic tile and grout can allow water vapor to pass into the space behind.

When installing a vapor barrier on an exterior wall marble tile, it may be helpful to seal a plastic vapor barrier to the concrete floor but not all the way up to the top of the ceiling. With insulation improperly installed, or in colder climates, there’s a chance that condensation that forms behind the vapor barrier will cause the framing members to rot. In order to avoid that possibility, install the vapor barrier with space to spare so that the gap behind the vapor barrier can breathe. Use a roll on product, such as Red Guard.

Wedi boards are another option some consider even better than cement tile. If you choose a membranous barrier such as Trugard or Kerdi, you can install plain old drywall tile or you can just install a cement tile instead. Put up a sturdy cement tile backer. Putting up wall marble tile is just like putting up drywall. You cut it to fit using a grinder with a diamond bit, and then screw it to the studs. Leave a 1/8″ gap between panels and then a very small space between the shower pan and the bottom of the backer so that the two don’t squeak by rubbing together.

Use a hole saw with a carbide bit to cut the holes where the shower head and handles would come through. Make the small tile flush with the tile lip of your shower pan by using shims behind the board to bring it out to the desired thickness. Make sure to use composite shims. Use 100% silicone caulk to seal the seams between the panels and then apply the silicone behind the board on the stud. Add some seam tape between the panels as well.

Lay the drywall. If using crown molding near the ceiling, lay down 12 to 18 inches (30.5 to 45.7 cm) of drywall instead of cement tile. Nails used to fix the crown molding in place will not travel through the tile; you’ll need to use moisture-resistant drywall such as greenboard in order to take the nails and affix the molding.

Feather any edges with seam tape and thin set mortar where the backer board meets the wall tile. If there’s a gap between the backer board and the wall tile, you’ll want to use seam tape and then feather the gap with thin set mortar so that it appears as one continuous back. Remember that the seams must remain tight with gaps 3/16″ or smaller.

Paint a water resistant primer over any areas you intend to tile. After you’ve feathered the edges to remove the gap, apply a high quality water resistant exterior primer over the feathered wall tile and backer.

How to Pre-Treating Soap Scum Before Clean Shower Tile?

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Cleaning your shower tiles is simple, but it may take some time depending on how dirty they are. Start by pre-treating the tiles with a water-vinegar solution. Then apply a baking soda paste to the small tiles and use a stiff bristle brush to scrub away scum, mildew, and grime. Prevent future buildup by drying your tiles four to fives times a week after showering.

Run your shower on a high temperature. Let the hot water run for at least 10 minutes. The hot water will open the tile’s pores, making it easier to clean. Mix 1 part vinegar to 1 part water in a bowl. Mix the ingredients together in the bowl until they are well-combined. Then fill a spray bottle with the solution.

Spray the solution onto your shower tiles. Make sure to spray more solution onto dirtier areas, as well as the spaces in between the tiles design, i.e., the grout. Since you will be using this solution later on, do not use up all of the solution at this point, or make more solution as you clean.

Let the solution set for five minutes. This will loosen the soap scum. Depending on how dirty your tiles are, you may need to let the solution set for 30 minutes or longer. Scrub the soap scum. Use a stiff bristle brush or a grout brush to do this. This will further loosen the soap scum, making the only tiles easier to clean.

Rinse with warm water. Do this by turning your shower on again. Use a lower temperature setting. However, the water should still be warm. Alternatively, you can use a bucket or a pitcher to rinse the tiles.

Squeegee your tiles. Do this by keeping a squeegee in your bathroom. Squeegee your bathroom tiles five to seven times a week after showering. Make sure to squeegee corners and crevices. Dry your casstle tiles with a towel. Keep a specially designated towel handy in your bathroom to do this. Dry your tiles off five to seven times a week after showering.