What Should We Do After Laying Floor Tiles?

Spreading Adhesive, or Mastic, and Laying ceramic Tiles. Pick up all tiles design and set aside. On your prepared surface, begin spreading the adhesive with the notched trowel. You will start from the center point, work only in one quadrant, and apply small sections at a time, following the pattern during the rehearsal. Spread adhesive evenly, then using the notched edge, make a raking motion. You should have grooves neither too deep nor too shallow. Set the first tile in place at the corner lines made by the center point. Do not twist cement tiles; simply press the tiles down firmly yet softly.

Set marble tiles spacer and then continue with additional marble floor tile. (Remember to set polished tile spacers after each tile). Use your level to determine degree of level of the marble stone tiles as you go along. (Not all surfaces are perfectly level). If slightly uneven, either manipulate the small tiles or add a little more adhesive to the floor until level. Usually, after a quadrant is complete, remove the tiles spacers so they do not set into the adhesive. Follow this process for the remainder of the floor, making sure to check the level as you go along. Wait. After the tiles have been set, it is usually advised to wait at least one day (or overnight) to allow the adhesive to dry, or cure. After the adhesive has cured, you will grout the joints.

Grouting. Continue working in quadrants as before. Using a rubber float, apply only enough grout as you can effectively work with. In a diagonal direction, press grout into the joints to an even level with the tiles. Skim excess from tile with the rubber float. You will notice a mild “grout haze” on your wood marble tiles. Wait a few minutes for the grout to stiffen up in the joints. Use a damp sponge work across the joints, (working along joints can drag out too much grout) to remove grout haze from tiles and finish the joints, make sure not to press too hard on joints. As you work, check each joint is full and smoothly finished. Continue this process with other joints in remaining quadrants.

Consider caulk. For joints at the wall tiles and floor interface it is best to use caulk instead of grout. There are benefits to using caulk along wall joints. All polished porcelain tiles may expand or contract depending on temperature fluctuations. The wall joints are also known as expansion joints. Using caulk here will buffer expansion and contraction a bit. Let the floor cure.Wait for the entire floor to cure for about a week before giving it a good mopping to remove remaining grout haze. You may also choose to seal the grout with a sealer to lock out dirt and or grease.

The Knowledge of Laying Floor Tiles

You will use 3 full tiles and 1 tile cut to 4 inches (10.2 cm), since the size of the 3 joints plus the 1 wall joint equals 2 inches (5.1 cm) and your original tiles size was 6 inches (15.2 cm) (6 inches original tiles– 2 inches total joint= 4 inch tiles). Note that this does not follow the realignment strategy mentioned above. Because this room is “squared,” the true center is best left where it actually is. Simply make uniform cuts as they correspond to each side (in this case, you will have 9 inch (22.9 cm) tiles as the wall tiles on the “short” 7 foot (2.1 m) walls and 4 inch (10.2 cm) marble tiles on the long 12 foot (3.7 m) walls.

Follow the same process for the other three quadrants. Because this design is uniform, it is best to follow the same size cuts all the way around. Pre-drill some wood tiles to fit over items such as radiator pipes, bath pipes, and so on. To achieve this you may have to drain down radiator systems, remove the rad from the wall and take the taps off the pipework. Very time consuming but worth the effort if a minimal look is desired. Your floor will look better if you can drill a hole in the small tiles and lay the tiles design over the pipe.

Use a diamond hole saw to bore into the wood marble tiles and drill a perfect hole. If you do not have a hole saw you can use a wet-tile saw to cut a square hole in the center of the kitchen floor tiles. Draw a square on the back of the polished tiles in the desired location of the hole. Carefully place the backside of the floor tiles against the wet-saw blade at the midpoint of one of the sides of the square. Gently push the tile against the the blade until the edge of the square is cut. Repeat for the other sides of the square hole. When your floor is rehearsed and all ceramic tiles are laid, measured, and cut, and appear to your liking, you are ready to lay the adhesive,

Cut the cement tiles board with a jigsaw or a carbide-tipped scoring tool. If you need to cut non-linear shapes out of your cement board, use a jigsaw and a carbide-tipped blade. If, however, you’re only cutting straight lines out of the cement board, use a carbide-tipped scoring tool (it costs $10) and a straight edge.

Finish up by mudding and taping the joints of the cement board. This process is almost exactly like mudding and taping drywall, except you’re using mortar instead of compound and fiberglass mesh tape instead of joint tape. Lay down a bit of mortar with your trowel, then press the fiberglass mesh tape into the joint. Then go over the mesh tape with your trowel, pressing it into the seams and locking it firmly in the mortar. Smooth out the resulting joints so that they don’t bulge out, feathering the edges.

How to Lay a Ceramic or Porcelain Tile Floor?

Decide on your tiles size and pattern. tiles come in different sizes: 4 inch (10.2 cm) by 4 inch (10.2 cm), 8 inch (20.3 cm) by 8 inch (20.3 cm), 12 inch (30.5 cm) by 12 inch (30.5 cm), for example (there are others, too). marble tiles can also be laid in different patterns. The total number of tiles you will need will depend on the size and pattern you want. For simplicity’s sake, let’s assume we are going to use 12 inch (30.5 cm) by 12 inch (30.5 cm) tiles and use a traditional grid design, where tiles are simply laid in pattern like graph paper.

Because the area of the room is 84 square feet, we will need about 84 12 inch (30.5 cm) x 12 inch (30.5 cm) (1 square foot) floor tiles (even accounting for the spaces in between tiles, known as “joints”). However, it is a good rule of thumb for beginners to purchase extra tiles to account for improperly cut or scored tiles, or for breakage. Buy an extra pack or two of wall tiles to be safe. When laying tile diagonally, a lot of material is wasted as cutoffs. A good rule of thumb here, even for experts, is to buy 15% more tile than the square footage would dictate.

Pick a color.You are only limited by your imagination (and the store’s stock). Choice of color typically is a matter of individual choice. The only additional step of planning and preparation with regard to color of the tile is with the grout selection. Grout is the “filler” that goes in the spaces between tiles, the joints. It can be grey, white, terra cotta, and so on. Typically, dark tiles with light grout really show the spaces in between tiles, and vice versa. The selection of grout color will really depend on how you would like the floor to look to the eye. There is no hard and fast rule.

Prep your space. Be sure that the entire surface is as smooth as possible. You will likely need to use floor leveling compound (available at your do it yourself hardware store) to float (create gradual transitions in the floor’s surface) out any divots, holes, or differences in subflooring heights. If you don’t “float” out these differences your cement tiles will crack. Your surface is now prepared for tiling.

Find your center point. You have already determined the size of your room, which is 84 square feet. Finding the center point is critical for laying the wood tiles. It will determine where you will lay your first kitchen tiles and the next ones. Measure one wall, for example the 12 foot (3.7 m) wall. At 6 feet (1.8 m), half the distance, mark a point with a pencil. Do the same on the other 12 foot (3.7 m) wall. Using your chalk line, anchor one end at the midpoint of one wall and stretch across to the midpoint of the other. “Snap” the chalk line by lifting it up slightly and letting it hit the ground; this will leave a straight line on the floor. Measure the 7 foot (2.1 m) walls and mark a point a 3 ½ feet on both sides.

Rehearse laying out ceramic tiles.When you have found your center point, you will notice you will have a “quadrant” design on the floor, or 4 equally sized areas. Starting at the center, “rehearse” your tile pattern by simply laying them on the floor without any adhesive or glue. Place the first tile at the corner nearest the center point. You are only going to work in one quadrant at a time. Begin placing tiles design in a straight line towards either wall, leaving a small space in between the tiles.

What Should We Do Before Laying Ceramic or Porcelain Tiles Floor?

Laying a ceramic or porcelain tile floor can be considered a daunting task, but with adequate planning and preparation, this perception can be overcome. Laying one’s own polished tile is also much less expensive (and possibly more rewarding) than having it professionally installed. Cost can be minimized by careful planning and preparation.

Laying the foundation. An unpleasant question to be faced is “What is your floor made up of?” Plywood is good. But, if you have the typical 1/2″ to 5/8″ particle board on top of a deck made of 2x8s, you have some work to do. After removal of the base trim, the particle board should be pulled up (this is easiest if you first cut it into about 16″ squares)and replaced by plywood. You will need a Skil saw, and if you’re doing the kitchen, you’ll need a “toe-kick saw.” Replace the particle board up to where the wood tile will stop. While you have the particle board off, you can inspect the deck to make sure it is firmly attached to the floor tiles joists. Now you’re ready for leveling compound (if needed).

Lay the backer board. You will need to lay backboard (fiberglass or preferably cement tiles sheets that are usually 3 by 5 feet) as well, or the tiles design will pop off. Evaluate the wall tiles space to be tiled. A first phase of evaluation is to determine the size of the room to be tiled (or re-tiled). The number of kitchen tiles you will need will depend on the size of the tiles you wish to lay, as well as the small tiles pattern you will like on the floor. Using a tape measure or digital laser tape, measure the room from one wall to the opposite wall, and note the distance. Let’s say the measure of this distance is 12 feet (3.7 m). Measure the distance of the opposing walls to each other. Let’s say this distance is 7 feet (2.1 m). Multiplying these 2 distances (12 feet x 7 feet) will yield a total area of 84 square feet.

These measurements are based on squared dimensions. If the room is not perfectly “squared” (or in this case “rectangle”) because of an irregular floor plan (where there might be a small section off of one side, for example), do not factor this space into your measurement. While you will of course need to marble tile this space, factoring this space into your measurements will affect finding the “center” of the room, which will be discussed shortly. This area is important to note, since it will provide you with an estimate of the number of tiles you will need to purchase to cover the area to be tiled.

Using Heavy-duty Bathroom Tile Cleaners

Mix water and bleach to clean marble tile. Combining bleach and water in a 1:3 ratio will yield an effective tile-cleaning solution. For instance, you might mix five tablespoons of bleach with 15 tablespoons of water. Fill a spray bottle with this solution and spray it on the bathroom tile you wish to clean. Rinse the tiles design clean with a cloth dampened with warm water. Bleach exudes noxious fumes. Open doors and windows before you get started to prevent the fumes from building up. Bleach can also irritate the skin, so wear thick rubber cleaning gloves when cleaning your bathroom tile with it.

Utilize ammonia. Combine ammonia and water in a 1:2 ratio. For instance, you could mix 10 tablespoons of water with five tablespoons of ammonia. Fill a spray bottle with the mixture and apply it to the bathroom tile you want to clean. Let it sit on the bathroom tile for about 60 minutes, then wipe it away with a clean, damp cloth. Ammonia, like bleach, exudes noxious fumes. Ventilate the bathroom you’re cleaning by opening doors and windows. Additionally, ammonia can irritate the skin, so wear thick rubber cleaning gloves when cleaning your bathroom tile with it.

Use a steam cleaner. A steam cleaner is a cleaning machine that uses steam to clean tiles floors and other flat surfaces. Generally, steam cleaners work the same way that vacuum cleaners do – simply turn the machine on and push it along the surface of your bathroom tiles. You’ll probably have to fill the steam cleaner with water before using it. Consult manufacturer directions before using your steam cleaner. You may be able to rent a steam cleaner at your local hardware or home goods store.

Make a baking soda paste. Combine baking soda and water in equal amounts. For instance, you might mix three tablespoons of water and three tablespoons of baking soda. Use a stiff-bristled brush to wipe the paste onto the grout. Work the paste into the grout, then wipe it away using a damp cloth or sponge. Create a salt and vinegar cleaning agent. Combine one cup (237 milliliters) of plain white vinegar, one cup (273 grams) of salt, two tablespoons of liquid dish soap, and one cup (237 milliliters) of hot water. Dab a sponge in this mixture and wipe your bathroom grout with it. Wait ten minutes, then wipe the grout with a clean, damp sponge.

Scrub the grout with bleach. Dip a stiff-bristled grout brush in bleach. Scrub the along the grout using the brush. After scrubbing, rinse the grout with a clean, damp cloth. Throw open the windows and door before you get started in order to ventilate the noxious bleach fumes. Use a cotton ball to clean corner cement tiles. Cleaning corner tiles with a regular sponge or brush can be difficult. Instead, soak a cotton ball in the tile cleaner of your choice and press it into the corner you wish to clean. Wait several minutes then remove the cotton ball. Wipe the corner with a damp rag to remove any excess grime. Alternately, you could use an old toothbrush to scrub the corner area clean.

Apply a coat of wax to ceramic tile. Once annually, apply a coat of car wax after cleaning bathroom tile. This will cause water to roll off and prevent the growth of mildew. Plus, it gives your bathroom tile a nice shine. While the exact technique for applying the car wax varies with the specific wax you’ve chosen to utilize, you can generally dab a clean cloth in the tub of wax, then rub it in a thin layer across the bathroom tiles after cleaning. After applying the wax to bathroom floor tile, buff it down to prevent the bathroom tile from being too slippery.

How to Clean Bathroom Tiles?

Cleaning bathroom tile is a crucial part of home maintenance. For a basic cleaning, you can use materials you probably have lying around the house like lemon juice, baking soda, and all-purpose cleaning agents. For cleaning more deeply soiled bathroom tile, use a steam cleaner or a chemical cleaning agent like bleach or ammonia. Don’t forget to clean the grout between the tiles, as well.

Use vinegar to clean the ceramic tile. Mixing water and distilled white (or cleaning) vinegar in equal amounts produces an effective cleaning agent. For instance, you might mix five tablespoons of vinegar with five tablespoons of water. Dab a rag in the mixture and scrub the tile design until clean. Wipe dry, or allow to air dry.

Apply lemon juice to the wood tile. Lemon juice is slightly acidic, and therefore effective as a tile-cleaning agent. Fill a spray bottle with lemon juice and spray the juice onto the cement tile directly, then wipe it away with a damp sponge. Alternately, dampen a sponge with some lemon juice directly, then use it to wipe the tile down. Rinse the tile off with a sponge or cloth dipped in warm water. If you wish, you could sprinkle your bathroom tile with a thin coat of baking soda before spraying it with lemon juice or wiping it down with a lemon juice-soaked sponge.

Spray your marble tile with a cleaning product. There are a variety of all-purpose cleaning products available that can effectively clean your bathroom tile. While specific directions for use vary with the product you’ve decided to use, you can generally start by spraying the polished tile with a light coating of the spray you’ve decided to use, then wiping it down with a clean cloth. Powdered cleaning products might need to be mixed with water before they can be used.Before you begin, you might want to close the door and windows to your bathroom and run the hot water in your tub (with the drain stopper engaged) for several minutes. This will build up the steam in your bathroom and make cleaning easier.

Use baking soda cleaner. Mix ½ cup (90 grams) of baking soda, one teaspoon of liquid dish soap, and ¼ cup (63 milliliters) of hydrogen peroxide. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle. Spray the mixture on the bathroom tiles you wish to clean. Wait 10 minutes, then wipe the tiles off with a damp sponge or rag.

How to cutting installed tiles?

Cover your counter and put on a mask and safety goggles. Cover your counter with plastic sheeting to protect it and make cleaning up easier. Put on a pair of safety goggles to protect your eyes against dust. Finally, put on a mask suitable for working with fine particles. Most dust masks and respirator masks come with a description of what they are used for, such as sanding dust, aerosol, etc. Choose the one for dust.

Make the marble tiles where you wish to cut it. A pencil may work just fine on a slate or ceramic tiles, but if the wood tiles is glazed, you should switch to a marker. Try to be as precise as possible for this step.

Cut along the top, bottom, and side edges. If you need to get inside the wall tiles, then you should cut through the dry wall as well. A dremel rotary cutter with a diamond tiles design blade will work for most polished tiles.

Use an oscillating cutter to cut through tight corners. While a dremel rotary tool will work for most lines, it won’t work on tight corners. For that, you should switch to an oscillating cutter instead. You may have to experiment before you find the right one for your type of tiles. A multi-surface blade seems to work better than cement tiles blade, however.

Pull the small tiles away. Wedge a thin knife or spatula behind the tiles and pop it out. If you had to cut through the wall, try not to lose anything inside the wall. Your hole is now complete and ready to finish.

How to cutting tiles sheets of backsplash tiles?

Measure the area of your backsplash tiles. Use a measuring tape to measure the dimensions of your marble tiles backsplash area. Write these measurements down. Don’t worry about cabinet corners that cut into the tiles design backsplash area just yet.

Transfer your measurements to your wood marble tiles sheet. The easiest way to do this is with long strips of painter’s tape of masking tape. You can also draw on the back of the polished tiles sheet with a marker. Be sure to mark any outlet and light switch holes. Place the sheet against the wall and mark them, if needed.

Put on some eye and respiratory protection, if needed. A pair of safety goggles is highly recommended because it will protect your eyes against flying pieces of tiles. A good respiratory mask is only needed if you will be cutting the wood tiles with a wet saw or grinder. If you will be using common marble tiles nippers, you won’t need a mask. Masks are graded based on the size of particle they filter. Purchase one that will filter dust particles.

Cut the cement tiles sheet down to size with a box cutter. Flip the wall tiles sheet over so that you can see the back, then cut through the mesh with a box cutter or utility knife. If the tape runs across a row of ceramic tiles, cut through the mesh along the inside edge of the tape. This will make your tile sheet a little smaller than necessary, but that’s okay. If your tiles are staggered like bricks or a honeycomb, you will need to cut around the tiles. Don’t cut straight through them. Be sure to cut through the outlet and light switch holes.

Install the small tiles sheet using your preferred tile cement. Spread the kitchen tiles cement across the backsplash area, then press the tiles sheet into place. If you cut your tiles sheet smaller, arrange it so that the gaps caused by the size difference are along the top edge, where the cabinets are. If there is a gap along 1 of the side edges, position the sheet so that the gap is in a corner.

Measure the excess tiles against the gaps. You should still have some tiles sheeting left over from when you cut the tiles sheet down. Take these excess tiles, and measure them against the gaps. If you need to, mark the back of each time with a pencil or marker to figure out how much you need to trim. If your tiles are staggered like bricks, the gaps won’t be consistent. You will need to cut some tiles larger, and other tiles smaller.

Cut the tiles while they are still on the mesh. Using your sketched line as a guide, cut the tiles down to the right size. A wet saw should do the trick for most tiles. If the tiles are smaller than 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm), a pair of tiles nippers may work better. The tiles should fall away from their mesh backing as you cut them. If they don’t. cut them away with your box cutter. If the tiles are more than 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm) across, you may be able to cut them with a score-and-snap tile cutter.

How to cutting standard tiles as backsplash?

Lay out your marble tiles on the counter, table, or floor. Make sure that your tiles design lay out matches the dimensions of your wall. For example, if your backsplash is 6 to 2 feet (1.83 to 0.61 m), then your ceramic tiles lay out should also be 6 to 2 feet (1.83 to 0.61 m). Include the tiles price that will get in the way of cabinets, corners, and edges. You will cut these down to size later. Also, remember to include the grouting gaps between the polished tiles; use a spacer if you have to.

This step is known as “dry-fitting.” It will help you figure out whether or not you need to cut any wood tiles. Leave a 1⁄8-in (0.32-cm) gap around the backsplash, where it connects to the cabinets, counter, and adjacent wall. If you are working with a large sheet of tiles, click here to continue.

Mark the small tiles that will get in the way of cabinets and corners. Check the dimensions of your wall against your laid-out tiles. Use a marker to make a mark across the cement tiles where they will bump against a cabinet or corner. Mark the tiles that will be along the top edge of your backsplash, next to a wall, or under a cabinet. They will be more disguised that way.

Put on some eye and respiratory protection. A pair of safety goggles will protect your eyes against any flying pieces of tiles. A good respiratory mask will prevent you from breathing in any sanding dust. Most masks are graded based on the type of particle they can filter. Choose one that can filter dust particles.

Use a score-and-snap tiles cutter on large tiles. Use the cutting wheel to make a single, deep score in the tiles. Snap the tiles along the scored line. If the tiles has a mesh backing, make sure that the mesh side is facing up. Do not use grinders on tiles made from slate. You can use them on ceramic tiles design, however.

Use tile nippers for small tiles. Tiles that are smaller than 1 or 2 inches (2.5 or 5.1 cm) may be difficult to cut on a score-and-snap tiles cutter. Not only could you hurt yourself, but you could break the tiles. Instead, use a pair of tiles nippers to pinch the tiles where you need to break it. You can use tiles nippers on larger tiles to “cut” curves. Do not use tiles nippers made from slate. You can use them on ceramic tiles, however.

Use a wet saw to notch tiles, if needed. Sometimes, the corner of a cabinet or outlet cover will extend into your backsplash tiles. Measure the corner, then trace it onto the tiles with a pencil or marker. Place the tiles onto the sliding table of the wet saw. Gently guide the tiles into the saw to make the first cut. Pull the tiles back, then create the second cut. Use a tiles nipper to break off the piece between the 2 cuts. You can also use a wet saw to make basic cuts on most tiles.

What should we do when we cut tiles backsplash?

Installing a marble tile backsplash yourself is a great way to save money while getting the exact look you want. There is more to installing backsplashes than just arranging floor tiles, however; you have to measure and cut the tiles design so that they fit properly. If the backsplash tile is already installed, you may still be able to cut holes into it for new fixtures, as long as you use the proper tools.

Turn off the power to your kitchen. Find the electrical panel in your home. It is typically a small, metal panel painted to match your wall. Open the panel, then find the switch for the bathroom tiles or kitchen electrical outlets (wherever you are doing the backsplash kitchen tiles). Flick the switch to the off position. Remember to flick the switches back on after you have finished installing the cement tiles. If your wood tiles are already on the wall and you wish to cut a hole in them, complete this step, then click here to learn how.

Remove any light switch and outlet covers. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws from each cover. Place the covers into separate zippered bags along with their matching screws. Work 1 cover at a time so that you don’t mix or lose the pieces. You will need to reinstall the light switch and outlet covers after you have finished installing the wall tiles.

Clear and cover the counters. Move anything on the counter that might get in the way, such as coffee makers and toasters. Cover the counter with a plastic sheet to protect it. If you are installing the tiles later, it would be a good idea to mask off counters and cabinets. This will save you a step. To mask off the counters and cabinets: lay strips of painter’s tape along any counter or cabinet edges that touch the backsplash wall.

Mark the center of the wall, then draw a plumb line through it. Find the center of the backsplash wall, and make a like mark with a pencil. Place a 2-ft (61-cm) level against the mark and orient it vertically. Use the edge of the level as a ruler to draw a vertical line spanning the height of your backsplash tiles. The plumb line will help you lay out your tiles evenly once you go to mount them on the wall. Make sure that the level is straight. The bubble inside the glass tube should be centered between the lines.